Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines spark plugs & timing for '54 235

I had an old-gas problem in my wife's '54 Corvette. Got that straight, but then the plugs were fouled, probably from running through the last of the barely-combustible stuff. Anyway, I saw the plugs were AC R43. That seems like a pretty cold plug, so I switched to AC R45S.

Anyone have experience to relate with changing heat ranges? Maybe the R43 was incorrect anyway, that's what was in it after the engine rebuild.

Also, has anyone experimented with changing the ignition advance on a multi-carb 235? It seems more advance than stock might give it a little more pop, especially at lower RPM, but I haven't tried it yet.

Now when I go to NAPA online and search for plugs for that car, it doesn't even list a Delco plug.

R-45 will be just fine in Colorado/cold climate.

I would put in fresh fuel & take it for a drive. After that change/clean the fuel filter.

Good luck, John M., #3370

I cured my rich plug problem with a hotter coil and fine tuning the carb/carbs. Also picked up an 'Advance' timing light at Sears. A fantastic tool to know exactly what your timing/advance is and if it's working.
Best of luck.

Blue Flame,I've had the same problem locating plugs for my '55 235, but have seen 43's,44's and 45's occasionally listed on EBay if you want to look there. However, good advice I've gotten from other sources(web) are to use Autolite 85's for 53 to 61 235 and 86(hotter) for Corvette 235. Also recommended are NGK BR6s(resitor plug)
and B6S(non-resister) for 235's. I don't have info on NGK for Corvette 235, but an NGK supplier should be able to help you to the hotter range in the same plug family. Hope this helps some.

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to keep the R45S plugs for now.

You won't believe what else happened: After I got the motor running well, took the car for a 15-mile or so checkout ride. Uneventful drive including some 70MPH Interstate driving. Get back, go to turn in the driveway and the wheel turns but the car doesn't! The bracket that holds the steering arm to the frame broke. Apparently this is pretty common on these cars, and usually associated with someone jacking up the car on the sterring bracket. From the broken part it looks like the bracket had cracked most of the way through years ago.

I've got the parts, but in reading the service manual I've concluded that the job is a bit much for me. You have to have tools to press out ball joints, etc. Anyway, the lower control arm on the driver side is bent too, and I got another one of those as well, so the car is going to a front end shop.

Wow,Blue, that's a new one for me. I'm guessing you're talking about the idler arm on the passenger side since it would be unusual for the steering box mount to break or is it the pitman arm off the box? Replacing that stuff isn't too,too hard, but I know where your coming from
and so a front end shop gets all of the headaches.Since you have all the parts you'll be back on the road soon.Hope no surprises on the road again.

Blue_flame,

Tom Langdon at Stovebolt Engine co has a large supply of NOS AC plugs and probably has the right ones for your '54. Your engine could probably benefit from some more initial timing advance, just try adding a few degrees at a time until it pings under load (Try it on a hill), then back it off a woof-hair.

The thing that broke is the bracket that holds the "third arm" to the crossmember. The third arm connects the rod from the steering box to the two tie rods. The bracket provides a pivot point for the third arm, and has a bearing that has to be reamed, shimmed, and checked for clearance. You also have to have some kind of tool for pressing out the ball joints.

When under the car I also noticed the lower A-arm on the driver side was bent. Looks like someone chained the car down to a trailer around the A-arm. So, I also got another one of those.

The flatbed is coming to pick up the car 8am Monday, so it should be back on the road in a few days.