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Has anyone used the Eastwood Powder Coating system? It looks pretty cool, and if my exhaust (fentons) will fit in the oven? I may just go and buy a old used oven for the garage, and put it on wheels so i can move it outside when in use.
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I think most powder coating is done with a plastic-based substance,even though it is baked on(around 400F-450F) I didn't think it could handle being used on items that will see much heat like a header. Could be it will be OK, but local powder coaters have shyed away from using it on those types of components before. I would double check with Eastwood before investing in it first.
Class IV CNC Machinist/Programmer
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I haven't used the new 'high temp' powder from Eastwood but I got the 'hot shot Jt' kit from them a while back and bought an oven at a yard sale (best $25 I'd spent in a while). I have seen several others use it as well (including a shop or two).
It wasn't as good as the professionally applied powder. However it didn't cost as much either.
This was before they came out with their 'powder primer'. I have access to a sand blaster at work for parts small enough to fit in the oven I have.
It wasn't an issue (on anything I tried) of the powder coming off, just of it not giving as good a finish as expected. My sample of 'almost chrome' wasn't anywhere close (more like 'gunmetal'and the color had streaks in it htat reminded me of hammerite).
However, in all fairness, I didn't shoot that, I gave it to a friend and he used it on several aluminum pieces that were cleaned and not polished to a shine but smoothed with abrasives (he was concerned that if he got it actually shiny the powder wouldn't stick, and he wanted a lower maintenance finish than polished aluminum provides).
It crinckled shortly after it cured, but said friend also mentioned he left the powder out in his car ind it 'froze'. Not sure how you have a problem with a powdered solid at any reasonable temperature (it was winter, but it's not like we're on the dark side of the moon for temps so I dunno??).
I would like to try it again with the new primer they have for it, as I understand it has a 'fill' quality and I've heard (from others) that their 'chrome' is better now.
I'm just throwing this out there as I don't want you to have an unrealistic (by my experience) expectaiton.
Not saying not to use it, as I expect it's a better product now (we bought ours at a trade show before we ever saw it in the catalog).
My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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There catalog says they have a high temp powder for headers good to something like 1200 degrees. I think I'll get some and give it a try. You say that it may need a primer first? Is that for the headers too?
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IIRC I saw one of their catalogs that said they had a 'high temp' powder primer a while back (several months, a year???).
The big thing is prep, just like paint. The smoother the part is before coating the smoother and shinier it will be after. Yes you can build up coats to fill imperfections, but you have the same ultimate problem with powder that you do with pain it you get it too thick.
It still has to be CLEAN.
I have heard of so many people that trust the powder to 'stick' by virtue of wraping around the part it has coated.
It's my firm belief that most of the 'bad press' you hear about powder coating is due to that very belief. It's still a coating, you have to get it to stick, not just encapsulate. All of the stories I have heard of the coating 'coming off' that I have been able to speak to either the coater or the customer it's like they are at a faith healing, 'heals the lame helps the blind to see' type stuff.
I hear them talk about 'you don't need primer', 'you don't need much / any prep', 'you don't need {fill in blank with whatever BS claim you care to}'.
Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of powder coating, done right.
I know there are people out there that 'get away with' all sorts of things with powder coat, but I'm not that guy (if it's gonna screw up, it'll happen to me).
When I farm out for coating, I bring the shop the cleanest part I can, and have them degrease it, blast it (media, sand, whatever is apropriate) treat it with a phosphoric wash (if it's ferrous, haven't done anything yet that isn't), prime it with a zinc enriched primer, THEN color (and clear if it's getting it).
I have never had a problem with anything coated that way (I try to do it the same way when I do it myself, but sometimes I have to resort to a wire wheel in a drill or a different etch).
Lots more work I know, but, at least to me the end result is worth it.
Only my oppinion though.
My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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That's why I posted this thread, to get opinions! I really appreciate all of the response. It helps to ask for onput so a person can learn from those who have gone down the road before. No use reinventing the wheel every day, just get on and roll with it. Thanks.
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Glad I could help. I tried hard not to sound preachy. (FAIL  ) It's a decent system, for what it is, just not the panacea some think it is. I'm interested in their high temp stuff too, if you try it let us know how it turns out. If I try it, I'll post up what I find, but it's gonna be a while (anybody got any spare daylight they could pipe my way?  ).
My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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I have used Eastwoods powder coating systems and i never had any real problems.I have not used their high heat header coats at this point. BUT If parts have already been used it is BEST to Clean and Precook/Preheat and let cool. Before powder coating to be sure ALL oils and what not are cooked off before hand. Other wise the coating can and will come off or simply look like Nothing you want.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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