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#5196 10/25/04 04:57 PM
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Hi guys,

I was talking to a buddy today and he told me something I have never heard before. He said his Inline motor was smoking after only 5,000 miles and his mechanic told him that his motor needed umbrellas inserted. His Vacumn and compression are fine but the mechanic told him that the oil was leaking down past the guides and that "Umbrellas" would fix the problem. He said that this is a common problem with inlines.He said it took a special tool that blew air into the cylinder(to keep the valve from falling)and then they could insert the unbrella and that would keep the oil from draining back.
Has anyone heard of this before? Is it the same as new valve guides? Why wouldn't new and tighter valve guides work?

Thanks.
RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe


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#5197 10/25/04 05:11 PM
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I've heard of umbrella's on the SBC V-thing.


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#5198 10/25/04 05:55 PM
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THe Umbrella's Can be installed Just like you said. with useing compressed air In the cyl. ANothertrick was to put a small line of rop/string into the cyl. and slowly rotat the block till it came into contact to the valaves to hold them up. But why not just fit it the right way and redo the guides. What type of guides where used? is this a stock Build? of a BIG cam lift? so many Question LOL I know with BIG lifts cams and the Guides cut down can shorten the Life of a guide But That seems Way Short. }[oooooo]


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#5199 10/25/04 05:56 PM
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Umbrella seals. I belive the valve guides have to be machined for these. I can't remember though. They just go over the tops of the valve guides. John


'68 C-10 - 250 with Edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel, Offy intake, Hedman headers and true duals, HEI, MSD 6A box, relocated gas tank
Soon to have: T-5 tranny
#5200 10/25/04 06:15 PM
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This was on a remanufactured 292 with a .030 overbore. It was an early 1970's motor with stock compression. He said it has always smoked a little but now uses a quart of oil every 500. He said the compression is 155 across the board so it's not the rings. He said it smokes on start up, and when he steps on it. When driving normally, there is no smoke.
Where can one find these Umbrellas and at what cost? Is it something we Inliners can do in the driveway or do you need a machine shop? Any books on the procedure?

RapRap


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#5201 10/25/04 07:25 PM
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Yes, it can be done in the drivway but like was said before, you will have to "air up" the cylinder or use the string to hold the valve up in place while you remove the lock keys, retainer and valve spring. I have used an old spark plug and welded one of my air tool fittings onto it and then thread it into the plug hole of the first cylinder and put the airline to it. It's a good idea to pull all of the plugs when you start as it is going to turn the motor over when you put the air to it. You leave the nut on the stud so you can use the manual spring compressor to loosen the lock keys and retainer plate. The new "umbrella seal" should just slip over the valve and slide all the way down. Put everything back together making sure you have the locks in properly (I usually give them a little love tap with a soft hammer to make sure they are seated) let the air out of that cylinder and then onto the next. Not a bad idea to put in a little heavier spring while you are at it. The V-8 springs will fit as well as the seals. Available from the dealer or a good machine shop.
Good Luck


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#5202 10/25/04 07:40 PM
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or if you want to get the best seal, go with positive lock valve seals. these require head removal and guide machining but hey its a one day project and provides the best seal.

#5203 10/25/04 10:21 PM
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The guide does not need to be machined to use The rubber umbrellas. Only for the teflon ones. Hope this helps}[oooooo]


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#5204 10/25/04 11:25 PM
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i use the teflon seals on mine 'cause the regular unbrella doesn't fit with the duel valve springs. the engine smoked bad with just the o-ring to seal the valveguide (on a freshly rebuilt head)
matt

#5205 10/25/04 11:57 PM
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Oil coming through valve guides usually causes smoke on decelleration and a little on initial accelleration after decelleration, it shouldn't happen at startup. The only way I could see it happening at startup would be if it wasn't draining back to the sump properly.

#5206 10/26/04 09:29 AM
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Thanks guys.
I thoughtI had heard of everything, but you guys have come through again. I'll pass on this info to my buddy and see if he's up to doing it with some help.

RapRap
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#5207 10/27/04 12:44 PM
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Ford 300's use umbrella seals, as do most older Ford V-8's. Order a set for a 300 Ford. They're cheap. The stem diameter is the same - 11/32. Some Ford engines use a different style on the intakes vs the exhausts. I don't remember if the 300 is like that. No machining is required - just coax it over the end of the valve stem and push down over the guide. When the valve moves it will push it up the stem - this is normal. These give superior oil control over an o-ring in the retainer but not as good as a positive seal pressed on the guide.


FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
#5208 10/29/04 04:22 AM
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I got a set of old school umbrellas. They are way different. They are called Oil Savers and Valve Silencers. Looks like a little plate and they go on top of the valve stem under the rockers.

I was surpriced that I found them as a stock item for early 216 engines in my Chevy Parts manual.

Question: How tight have oil seals to seal?
Don`t the valve stemms need some lubrication to prevent wear?

Frank


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#5209 10/29/04 02:36 PM
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If you don't have a good way to "air up the cylinder" you can hold the valve up by feeding some small rope (like clothes line)in through the spark plug hole untill the cylinder is full.
(Old shade tree trick)

#5210 12/18/04 08:26 PM
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the early sbc used them too. but i can say if you are losing that much oil through the guides then you have to put bronze walls in. that is the only way to fix worn guides.


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