Fats, depending on which cylinder head you choose to begin with, that is the only accurate method to unshroud the chamber effectively. As you can probably conclude, each head and final bore size will be tailored precisely to the way each chamber/bore indexes as it is bolted to the block. The best scenario is to have the chamber come just to the edge of the cylinder bore, if you have to hand blend it. If for some reason, the chamber extends beyond the edge of the cylinder, then as you have said, the cylinder bore is now the restriction, and muct be chamfered to unshroud the bore/chamber combo, much like the older BBC blocks that have the exhaust notch in the top of the bore. Most enthusiasts don't realize that the cylinder bore is an extension of the chamber, and equally important in how the cylinder head works and reacts. Its a whole package, and the head is only one component in that package. Just like the airflow in the intake tract begins in the intake, so if you just focus on the intake port of the head, you wont get the full potential out of the package either, the runners in the intake manifold are also equally important to this combo of parts. In our race heads with the 2.150" intake valves, that was common to have the cylinders chamfered to unshroud the valves.
