I've found that many more people can weld sheet metal than can design oil pans. I can't weld, but pan design is not as bad as it looks until you get into G forces and dry sumps.
Try to get the best dimensions for what interferes (X-member, tie rod, etc.), and at least 1/2" for engine movement in the mount (an another 1/2" minimum for error).
Next, rather than try to explain to the welder "I need this wall moved back to here, and a dent like this", I try to visualize what geometric shape (especially a cylinder, half-cylinder, and "dome") would correct the problem if it were inserted. Avoid using any shapes with corners or angles if possible
I cut it to slightly oversize, and identify with a china marker etc. both inside and out including "#1", "bottom", "UP" arrows, clean and de-burr. Then, mark the pan both inside and out with "#1" etc. for location.
A tie rod sometimes looks like a big problem, but can be passed right through the pan (assuming it's safe inside) by adding a hollow tube welded at both sides. The tie rod is installed in the tube before the pan goes up.
An X-member underneath is sometimes fixed with a really big tube cut in half lengthwise, and sunk into the pan bottom with the open end down. Pick a tube with 2-4" larger OD than the X-member width (front to back).
If your oil capacity goes down, move the sump area down by adding a sump cut off another pan (need not be the same type).
Remember to re-calibrate the dipstick. What's important isn't how much oil there is, but where the oil is when it safely covers the pickup by the same amount as original.
