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#65824 08/03/11 01:56 AM
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I'm missing a wheel dust cap for our salt flat racer.

It has multipiece spindle mount aluminum wheels.



Best picture I have.

Naturally I let the car get away with the remaining dust cap installed.

So I'm trying to figure out what size dust cap it takes.

I had one that was 1 13/16" (1980 Toyota Cellica) that is just too big (barely) to drive in the hole (if it was an iron hub I'd try it, but being aluminum I hesitate to wail on it too hard).

We thought we had it figured out, so we ordered a set of dust caps from Kip motors for a "Popular" (lower trim version of an Anglia, same spindles that are on this) they were 1 5/8", too small. \:\(

So, the question is, what dust cap is available that is between 1 13/16" and 1 5/8" (closer to the 1 13/16) where it goes into the hub?

I've tried online, and tried the local parts stores (NAPA, Oreilys, along with several others) to no avail, I even asked if there was something between there in metric, only to be told that there is only one size dust cap made in metric (so all the imports that use non sealed bearings on the non driven wheels all use the same size?, I don't buy it either).

I would prefer something ready made, but if it comes to it, I'm not abbove turning down some pipe in my lathe and welding a cap on the end, if anyone knows what size it needs to be.

Any info helps, anyone got an old Dorman catalog?


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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That looks like a Cragar Super Trick wheel from the mid 70's, the same type I'm using on my restored Logghe car. I miked mine and the cap bore is 1.796". Did you try Bogart? They make billet aluminum ones.


FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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Could be, the lack of brand markings is baffling to me, even the Eelco discs that were on the back of the Berkeley had the Eelco feet on them.

Thank you for the measurement.

Ours are riveted together with washers on the bucked ends of the rivets, and the bucked ends of the rivets are rolled over like brake lining rivets.


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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same as my Cragars - no markings and riveted


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Thanks. \:\)

You aren't by any chance going to B-Ville are you?


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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Oh, are you running tubes in your Craggars?

If you are, how do you get them out?

Mine has the the valve stems that are threaded and have a nut on them (not particularly clean in the pic, kind of hard to see) I expect you remove the nut, but there is a metal plate inside the tube, and I can't seem to get the bead of the tire past it, and with the tire on, I can't seem to get the valve stem to come out of the wheel.

I ask as I am interested in changing the tires and tubes as I expect they are both over 20 years old, maybe I'm a wuss, but I don't like using rubber that old when replacements are so readily available.


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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My tires are tubeless. The valve stem fits thru the wheel and is held firmly in place with the external nut. Its been a long time since I changed tires but I'm pretty sure it can be done without disturbing the valve stem. Rubber lube, dishwasher detergent or silicone sprayed on the rubber helps too.

I'm not going to Bonneville this year. Its on my bucket list though.


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I was surprised to find tubes in there as well, but they're in there and I have to believe there is a reason. (not sure I want to know)

Make sure that item is high enough on the bucket list that you make it.

I hear that from alot of people, "I'm gonna make it there someday" but several of them I know didn't make it. \:\(


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155

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