Originally Posted By: Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank
The rods ( stock ) are already forged.
Get your stock rods magnafluxed, side grinded/polished & then shot peened.
Get them resized & ARP bolts installed.
Reuse crank, get it turned it needed.

I would use King bearings http://www.kingbearings.com/
for rods & mains. Sealed power is fine on cam bearings.

Use a complete Felpro gasket kit. Use the Felpro head gasket 1025.
Stock cast piston will not tolerate much detonation @ all,that will fail first when detonated.
All other parts should be able to take 10 PSI easy even your stock cast pistons can, JUST DON'T DETONATE!

ARP rod bolts could be used more than once. Same for mains studs.
For a more performance engine,I would buy new rod bolts everytime.
Might be a good time to get some ARP head studs.

Lets see some pics of your parts, all this talk w/no pics, come-on.

MBHD


Are they really?? Then why would anyone upgrade to different rods if the stock is already forged? Different shapes that are stronger??
I'm hoping to do this with as little machine work as possible considering I need this done in a timely and cost-effective manor... How much and how long would the stock rods getting machined take?
Why would I need ARP bolts "installed". Wouldn't I do the "installing" during assembly?
Again how much would turning the crank cost?

That was something I was thinking about because I read in santucci's book that there are several different types of rod and main bearings but king bearings only had a small hole for the oil whereas the sealed power had a small hole and a groove for the oil to travel through on the lower half of the bearing. From a novice's standpoint, it seems like it would be better for the oil to contact in the hole as well as in the groove making Sealed Power the better product (more oil contact = better lubrication?)
I've heard that it isn't uncommon to forgo replacing cam bearings at all because they also require a special tool. Is that something I could do here or is it pretty much a necessity?

Is there a way to protect against detonation (besides keeping ignition at TDC? lol)

Well the only reason I asked is because they're like $60 a set and if I ever change rods or whatever, it seems like a waste to rebuy the bolts.

I was thinking about the ARP head studs but wouldn't that interfere with a lump kit when I install it in the future?

69 Buick Special Deluxe. Intercooled Turbo Chevy 250 @ 15psi on a stock long block. It's kinda fast.