[quote=snowman4839]I'm not an expert or anything but the pistons look darn near new. My friend noticed something odd though. The 4 rear pistons have 3 circles on them and the other 2 in the front don't. What's with that? Maybe they have been changed?
Also. I looked at the Felpro 1025 on summit you linked me to and it has a completely different bore size. It's like 4.125" or something. My stock bore size is 3.875". I doubt it would work with .3" difference on each of the bores. As far as I know, it is the only readily available HG that has a stainless fire ring made to take abuse of turbocharging & blower etc that does not cost an arm & a leg. Like a MLS COMETIC HG w/a cost of $177 dollars & needs a special smooth sealing surfaces. They require surface finishes to be 50 RA or finer and flat within .002”.
Yes it has a 4.125" bore, I am not thrilled about that either but it works & I have used them on my 250's, w/no problems Since the bore is that much bigger, that is part of the reason I suggested for you to mill your cylinder head to get back some of the compresssion lost by the bigger HG bore.
Do I really need to resurface the head? I didn't plan on adding much to it really but replacing a few important gaskets and cleaning it and painting. Wouldn't that also raise the compression some?
Yes a new flywheel. My original stock one has spider cracks on it. Why would I need a steel flywheel? What benefit does it have? Because it's like an extra $100 that I don't really have right now for a steel one. I just got done turning the brake rotors on my truck, it had spder cracks also, but after the rotors were turned/cut, the cracks were machined out. (sorta simular) The steel flywheel does not usually explode like what your cast iron flywheel could possibly do., It's just safer, that's all, & a SFI steel bellhousing, dont want you to maybe get injured, if something lets go, & some tracks might require you to run these special safety equipment? Usually, when you get your flywheel resurfaced, the cracks will be removed when it gets cut (as long as the cracks are not too deep)
Why would I need a new pressure plate? I replaced it with a stock type one about 4000 miles ago and it still looks great. I never felt it slip under full boost. So I don't see how it would burn up the clutch.
I would think the cracks your flywheel has is caused from slipping, unless you are just slidding the clutch so much you are burning up the clutch & heating up the flywheel? Maybe not , but that's my thinking. The stock 6 cyl pressure plate is pretty weak IMO, & if you are going through the trouble of these other changes, you might want to consider an upgraded pressure plate w/more gripping power.
I have to take out the crankshaft to replace the rear main seal right? I need to because I had quite a bit of oil slung around in the bellhousing.
I also had a bit of a brain fart with disassembly. I got 4 of the lifters mixed up and I THINK I know where they came from but I'm not sure. What would happen if those 4 lifters did get mixed up and got put in the wrong spot?
Also, would it be a big deal to take out the crank, pistons, and rods? Don't I just need to make sure that I put the bearings and caps in the same place and get a piston ring compressor to put the pistons back in? Then torque everything to spec? Isn't that about it to reassemble the rotating assembly?
[/b]You might be able to change out the rear main seal by just removing the main cap & push out the old seal & slid in the new seal, just the same way the old seal came out. You can install the rear main seal in backwards. So , make sure which way it goes.
On the lifters,,, need to change the 4 you are not sure about w/new lifters.
