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#6749 02/23/05 07:15 PM
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Lammy1 Offline OP
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Hi All,

I am in the proces off changing my 250 engine.

So I have to put back the emission stuff.
Sorry about the PVC, EGR or whatever I don't understand nothing. \:\( \:\(
I know it have something to do with emmision, but how to connect or check everything is abracadabra for me.
Even with the Hayn** manual, I don't know where what is on the engine.

What can I leave off the engine?

greetings from The Netherlands

Frank

#6750 02/23/05 08:19 PM
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Unfortunately Lammy unless you can match the name of a part to the part you are going to have a hard time trying to follow a diagram that tells you how to hook up and pipe all the emissions stuff. If you are struggling, and it seems you are, then it might be best for you to try and locate someone over there who is near you and can help. The Haynes manuals do show emissions diagrams as you know, so at least you have that to follow if you can get some help.

What is the reason you have to put it all back on? Do you have emissions laws in Holland and the car must be inspected for that?

Mike


Mike G #4355
#6751 02/24/05 03:16 PM
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Lammy1 Offline OP
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@ Mike,

in Holland we don't have emission laws for
old cars.
So I want to get rid off all the stuff.
With valves here and there, tubes or whatever....

So maybe my question should bee how to get rid off the emission control system?

cheers

Frank

#6752 02/24/05 05:20 PM
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Dear Frank;

Okay; You'll need to be carefull here. These engines had no 'draft tube' & were sealed at the factory.

The 'KV' system removes by replacing the air cleaner or blocking the nipple that conects to the valve cover. Then you will have to block the valve cover opening too, or change to a non-vented one. Different years are setup differently.

The 'PCV' system is okay but you can remove it too. Simply block the openings.

Now; You must vent the crancase. A breather cap in the valve cover will do this in part. To vent the lower portion of the engine you will need to install a venting device as used on racing engines on the side of the oil pan. This will let vapors (blow-by)out but not the oil. This should be placed on the side away from the exhaust system.

The AIR system (junk)can just be put in the scrap metel area. You can block the openings with brass plugs or buy headers. You may need to play around with the pulleys & belts after this.

The EGR system leaves when you change to a 'high performance intake & headers.

As a beginner "walk softly here". Perhaps Larry or Mike will give you more help. They both work a lot on these engines and race them as well.

Good luck, John M......


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#6753 02/24/05 05:56 PM
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Ok Lammy, we had a little mix up in translation it sounds like. You said you had to "Put back emissions stuff". Over here that means you must put it back ON where it came from.

You can remove the AIR pump and all of the hoses and little pipes that run off it. On the 250 engine the AIR system connects into the cylinder head exhaust ports right between the valve cover and the exhaust manifold. Then as John mentioned you have to plug these holes in the head.

I would strongly recommend you leave the PCV valve in place, usually in the rear opening on the top of the valve cover, and run a vented oil fill cap, we call it a breather cap, in the front opening of the valve cover. Now the PCV system will work correctly and you can use a fancy chromed air cleaner if you like. Contrary to all that you hear a PCV system does not rob any horsepower or cause any problems. All out racing motors don't use a PCV, and blower motors don't generally use them either because of the lack of adequate vacuum to make a PCV work correctly. For a street engine a PCV is the best way to avoid gaskets seeping oil and making a mess of your engine. Run 3/8 inch vacuum & fuel hose from the PCV to the big fitting on the base of the carb, or to the fitting on the intake manifold which ever your engine has.

For the time being you can simply disconnect the EGR lines and any solenoid that may be triggering it but leave the EGR itself bolted in place. As long as the EGR is not carboned up and leaking it is in the closed off position with no vacuum to act on it.

If you can find a photo of a 1964 - 1966 250 USA engine but not with California emissions on it , it will be what you want yours to look like when you are finished except for the oil fill cap at the front and the vent tube going from the front to the air cleaner. You'll be using the breather cap to replace those 2 things.

Hope this points you straight for now.

Mike


Mike G #4355

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