First you need to check the rocker to valve stem contact.Rotate the engine slowly while watching the rocker on the valve tip,it "wipes" back and forth on the stem. Ideally it should be as centered as possible,I bet it's fine.Then there's how much the rocker travels from under center to over center as lifts and closes the valve.Don't worry about it so long as the contact on the stem is ok unless you like a lot of fussing around.
Intake valve clearance check? Been discussed in great detail on every performance website and book.....Is the head torqued down and you didn't check it? Well,the following will work if you're careful...pull the an intake valve spring using the compress air trick...put a spring clamp on the valve stem right up against the stem seal,you are using positive seals,yes? release air pressure,then gently move valve down the the minimum valve to piston clearance,.080 or so. Then slowly rotate the engine a few turns while watching the valve stem.No contact? good to go.
Less work is just redcing the intake lash to zero plus tightening it .080 and rotate the engine very carefully.This can be a bit tricky on a fresh a bit stiff to rotate engine because valve heads can bend easy.Or just pull the head and do it with clay.
I use Comp Cams break in oil available in several grades.About 6 bucks a quart from places like Summit Racing online.Some engine shops and parts stores locally sell Brad Penn hi zinc oils.
Good luck and just start the damn thing
