Inliners International Forums General Discussion Drive Train Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

Greetings . . .

Anybody have any experience with The Filling Station's dual master cylinder conversion:
[img]http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~showpic~0000014a~AAANV~~~[/img]
for early chevies?

I am interested in the unit because of the safety of two separate hydraulic circuits . . . going fast is great . . . but it's really nice stop when you want to

best regards,
Keith

Keith,
If you're not changing brakes to disc, you don't need a proportionong valve.
Use a master cylinder for front and rear drum brakes. Use one with the same bore size as original.
You're idea is right. The dual master cylinder is MUCH safer. I won't run anything without one.
Joe

Dear Kieth;

The 'proportioning valve' is part of the safety device. It & It's switch/light alert the driver of a pressure variance, ie; it will move toward the low pressure side of the system.

Joe may be thinking of the 'pessure reduction' valve that restricts pressure to the rear (Bendix)brakes during a "panic stop" in a disc-Bendix system.

This was developed by Ford in the early 70's to keep the vehicle from sliding in a "panic stop" as the front (rotor/pads) require more pressure than the rear shoes (Bendix), in that situation.

Without it, the rear wheels can/did 'lock-up'etc.

JM.....

Thanks for the replies guys.

Like Joe has indicated, I dont think that this drum/drum application will require any of the modern gizmos found on a disc/drum set up. But please correct me if I am wrong.

I don't need a "Metering Valve" to compensate for the difference between Shoe to Drum (longer) versus Pad to Disc (shorter) travel distances . . .

I don't need a "Proportioning Valve" to provide different braking pressures front to back. On the Huck system this is provided by the larger wheel cylinders on the front wheels . . .

And I certainly don't need a "Pressure Differential" switch wired to an idiot light to tell me I have a leak.

Since I am going to be putting all new brake lines in as part of my resto - I can just as easily plumb two circuits - one for the front and one for the back.

So far then my only compromises are Safety and Good Tunes as this unit and a solid state conversion for the radio will be the only 'modern' things on this car. Everything else will be circa '54 speed parts or original . . .

I am still 'thinking' about a 12 volt conversion, but that's a discussion for the electrical thread.

regards,
Keith

Thanks John . . .

It's always nice to hear the voice of experience.

As for the 'upgrade' to Bendix, what does this buy over the Huck system? I know its a newer design, but how is it better than what came on the '49? I know alot of cars were converted to Bendix in the 60's - but this was because the maintenace parts were easier to come by. Huck stuff is now readily available.

But if Bendix is the way to go, then I am halfway there as I have a donor rear-end from a '52 power-glide that I purchased for the 3.55 gears. I could use the backing plates from that for the rear.

Thanks again.
Keith

Dear Keith;

The Huck system is anchored at the bottom by the pivot pin and is held stationary at the top by the wheel Cylinder.

The Bendix system pivots at the top and is free at the bottom also. This allows the shoes to move with drum rotation & grab better/last longer.

JM.......

Update on this ancient thread. I sent my master cylinder off to Oregon for conversion to dual circuit:
Image at Parts123 Site

I'd looked at this conversion years ago and decided to go for it. I saw this in the catalog of The Filling Station.

Turns out my cylinder got a tour of the country as the work was actually done by Buffalo. The finished product was drop shipped from their shop:


The workmanship is first rate. The design gut's the old cylinder (which is now just a pedal mount) and incorporates a GM unit that was original equipment on a mid 70's vet.

Debating with myself on whether to put a trap door in the driver's side floor for servicing . . .

regards,
stock49

49-

Anything to make it easier. I had to pull my seat to check the level.

Will Willis

Chassis Engineering makes a mount that works great. Have installed several on my projects over the years & you do not have to remove the seat to check the fluid !