Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected snowman4839 turbo build

Hank,
Jeeze that's a huge cc combustion chamber. Good thing to know that 78cc is possible then and that I can go ahead and zero deck the block

I thought I had posted the recommendation from Lunati but I looked at the past 3 pages and could find it. So here it is,
Single pattern grind
219 @ .50 for intake/exhaust
.5145" lift
recommended 112* of lobe separation but I asked for 113 or 115 I think, I'll have to find the sheet again.
Recommended springs were installed height of 1.85", 125lbs seat, 325lbs compressed
The springs I got from Tom are 1.75", 100lbs @ 1.7" (so it will be slightly less at 1.75"), and 320lbs at .500" lift. So the seat pressure is kinda low (enough to cause a problem?) and the compressed is right on the money.
Tom also guessed the bind height was 1.150 giving .600" from seat height to bind height giving my cam .0855" clearance to bind which should be fine. When I get back, I will throw a spring in a vice and measure it's bind height to be sure.
It was similar to Tom's cam he used on the turbo dyno 250 which was slightly more lift, slightly less duration, and 110*? separation? I think it was an N/A cam actually.
I'm hopeful that if he can make 350hp on that cam then adding a little more lobe separation would put me nearer my goal.

To get that cam gear off, you think a even heating with a mapgas torch should do the trick? Do you mean literally it will "fall off" or at least be loose enough to pull apart by hand??
Just heat it back up to install on the new cam?

Then I won't be particularly worried about piston-to-valve clearance if it wasn't close on that radical of a cam.

I just got a degree wheel and will be degreeing my cam on assembly.



So updates...
I just got the ball rolling on parts tonight. Bought tom's Ross forged pistons for the stock 5.7" rods. Then I also bought new ARP rod bolts (and floor pans but that's unrelated haha). I will hopefully getting those engine parts by next week so I can make a trip home, get the engine torn down, and off to the machine shop with the new pistons and rod bolts so they can start working on that. I'm also going to go ahead and get the head torn down and sent off to Tom.

Now that I have a set of micrometers and a bore gauge, I'm going to measure the mains crank and check the clearances. Maybe I just happened to get a bad reading on that first engine because of assembly lube I didn't clean off or something. Now I have a good accurate way of measuring it. That will give me a good indicator if I need to have the crank turned or something is out of whack with the mains.

Is it worth the money to invest the other $200 for ARP hardware for the mains and heads?
The stock bolts and head gasket seemed to work pretty well for what I've been doing and it seems like I remember someone saying that in Brazil, they've used the stock bottom end up to 1000hp, but I'm not sure if they were including the hardware with that factoid.