Here's the correct 59-62 261 filter. Notice the u-bolts for clamping it to the intake manifold and the lines that straddle the exhaust.
As for lines, try going down to the local hardware store and buy some 1/2" pipe nipples and some elbows to use to clear the exhaust area, should you be too close to the exhaust. It's not that difficult. You could even get aluminum or stainless steel ones from a place like McMaster-Carr, should you want to polish them for show. Then either continue to run hard line or proper hose material to the filter, depending on where you locate it.
Both Jegs and Summit offer complete kits or just the adapters. Some come with threads for both GM or Ford filters. Summit #SUM-G4985 is one possibility. Just look through the catalogs. I see they also have filter mounted magnets available.
When I spend several thousand dollars rebuilding an engine, and you have an oportunity to run an effective filter arrangement (full flow) which makes a difference in the longevity of an engine regardless of the type of oil or change interval, it would be pretty stupid of me not to use it. The results that Frank got with the magnets should be enough to convince anybody of the need to run a filter. If you won't remove the filter from a newer car, why would you do it on anything else? I can't believe I have to sit here and make a case FOR running a filter. It's rediculous. At least everybody got a chuckle out of it. Your implications that I don't know anything about flamability, etc... are what's nonsense. I deal with these things on a regular basis.
