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Got a reply from CompCams about the custom grind. This is their reply...
"We would certainly have to custom grind one for this so I am thinking that a 218/218 .499/.499 on a 114 lobe separation would work the best in this one. That should allow it to spool quickly and make good power in the mid-high range as well."
Similar to what you suggested Hank. What do we think about it for my goals? Do we concur with his choice? Are there custom grinds ultra expensive?
Ian
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Ian,
I would go with that grind.
Should meet your goals, have a nice idle & knock down some descent mileage.
A custom grind last I checked is not that much more than an off the self grind. Can't remember off hand, just a guess, $50 more??
It really is not all that special for them to do one for you, input the numbers from there master cam catalog, but my price might be outdated, & ,, since they do not offer what I recommend & what they recommend, I would spend the extra $$ to get what you want.
MBHD
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Yeah, I got another reply. The cam takes 3-5 days to produce and will cost $186.15. I can get them together with their 812-12 lifters (Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Chevy, 0.842 Dia., 1.99 Seat Height, Set of 12) for about $245 total. As a comparison, the 12bolt prices are better than fair as they come with the break in solution as well.
Still waiting on my spark plugs and wires to put in my new HEI distributor. @Gbauer do you recall how long your new fuel line was?
Ian
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So you are saying for $245 you get a custom grind camshaft & lifters from Comp Cams? Or you can get an off the shelf cam, (no lifters) from Tom for $250? MBHD
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So you are saying for $245 you get a custom grind camshaft & lifters from Comp Cams? Or you can get an off the shelf cam, (no lifters) from Tom for $250? MBHD Nope, I can get the custom grind cam and lifters from CompCams for $245 OR the custom grind cam, lifters and break in fluid from 12bolt/Tom for $250. So the price difference is $5 but you get the fluid from Tom. Also, I think Tom's cams might have extra machine polishing... I could be mistaken about that though. Either way, if Tom sold the grind I want, for the price he sells his others, I'd buy it from him as it's a slightly better deal.
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I can offer the same price on any custom grind. Every cam that goes thru my shop gets polished on the bearing journals by me. On a crankshaft polisher. Try to get a video tonight, got to do a few. All cams come with a packet (paste) to apply to the lobes. The oil additive just does more to help the break in period.
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That's great, why don't you offer a better camshaft for anyone other than what is offered from you website?
Or, better yet, on your website you can offer any custom grind for the same price?
Trying to get rid of your inventory or?
What exactly does polishing a camshaft from a crankshaft polisher offer, better warranty?
No need to post a video, thank you.
MBHD
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The best deal for me is to "stock " the part. I order in quantity and get better pricing/ free shipping/ better service/ ect. The cams I have fit very well into most peoples builds. The custom cams will have a higher cost for shipping. They will not be drop shipped to the customer.
I will post a video about the polishing. The journals tend to be rougher than acceptable for me and am thinking the roughness promotes bearing failure. Just doing my part to turn out the highest quality possible.
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Wow, this reads like their is some bad blood between you guys. Either way, I'd like to see the video(s) when they're posted.
Just to be sure I didn't misunderstand that Tom, you could get that custom cam I want, with the lifters and break in fluid for the $250 you normally charge?
Ian
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No bad blood at all. Trying for vendors to offer more products, make better power or just options for our engines, instead of just pushing what they just on the shelves. Suggesting for a vendor to say on their website, I can get you any custom grind camshaft you want, does not mean bad blood. Just a suggestion to help with sales. Quote:"I can offer the same price on any custom grind." "Quote" The custom cams will have a higher cost for shipping. So, no, it will not be $250. I can see why you are confused. It is hard to say when you see two different statements. Tom, How thick is the surface hardness on those camshafts, & how much material is being removed to get a smoother surface? Here is the tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=we1zLj-skGghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Un1IZ_uaL_Yhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8OaIpaDucMMBHD
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I'll probably check with my machine shop about cam polishing before I order but if it's not available locally and/or isn't a fair price, I'll order it through Tom as it'd be nice for it to arrive smooth and ready to install. Great pictures of the polishing BTW. Tom, perhaps you can start stocking that cam I need before I need to order it, I think it'd be a great addition to your offerings! Also, good polisher links Hank. Wouldn't have thought to look into it but it seems like a worth while step for the cam. Ian
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I would think if there is a problem with Comp Cams cam journals, they would have a recall on them. Same if the dimensions were incorrect.
Sometimes, when the surface is not real smooth it actually holds & retains the oil for better lubrication. Like having knurled valve guides, knurled pistons.
Ian, after you dyno test your new engine with the new grind, that would be a better way to advertise it's potential, most important, how it drives,, does the boost come in quick, mileage etc. Real driving impressions. A dyno is a good tool for adjusting, & tuning an engine, but does not compare to actual driving & give first hand knowledge of your experience. And if the results were good, then maybe Tlowe would stock it.
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We had a problem back in the day with a certain clutch company. Had put 3 of their clutches in our Firebird, every one kept frying very prematurely. We contacted the company over and over, they kept saying it had to be something on our end, they weren't experiencing any other problems. Not even a year later, we come to find out that they had someone working there who was intentionally sabotaging their clutch plates on the assembly line. They then admitted fault, although I'm not sure if we ever got any money back out of it.
Companies often won't admit their mistakes until they have to... not saying whether or not it's a problem, just playing devils advocate.
I will admit that when I was reading this thread it definitely seemed like there was some tension, I don't know how it could read any other way. I hope that this isn't the case and it's just words being taken the wrong way. There is so few in the inline community that we can't have 2 of the most active members against each other.
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Yeah.. I read it the same way but it doesn't really affect my decision making as I can evaluate the options and go from there. Sometimes hearing two sides is helpful. Oh, and I wasn't serious about tlowe stocking that cam. I was joking as if he did stock it, I wouldn't need to pay extra shipping. It was the cheapskate in me encouraging a deal. That being said, I'll gladly post dyno results at the end as I'd like to make sure everything aspect of my build is documented. I know Camaro Performance Magazine likes solid references for their cover cars Ian
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Went to go pickup my new HGK plugs/wires last week and found myself having a hard time breathing in the car. I had left the heater on the day before and while warming it up it was obviously sucking air from the engine bay inside. After a minute of concern I popped the hood and was greeted with a surprising amount of smoke. It was quite obvious the exhaust manifold was cooking oil. This was frustrating but intriguing at the same time as I've never had this engine apart. I tried tightening everything but it didn't help. Seemed apparent the gasket was the culprit. Was surprised I couldn't get at one of the manifold bolts without removing the power steering pump. Also gave me a chance to put some nice clean brass plugs in place of the hideous smog rail (was taped off anyway). The manifold gasket was black and tired looking on the firewall end. New gasket seems to have solved it. The kit came with a new donut gasket for the down pipe but it was considerably thicker than the crusty original, creating a gap and a fun ticking sound when accelerating. I had to take about a third of it off and really crank it tight to get a proper seal. Overall a decent $15 experience I'm glad happened in my driveway. Yep, that's duct tape. It's the thought that counts!After that side track, I received my new plugs and wires. Ordered them off clubplug.ca which had the best canadian shipped price. I couldn't find a inline 6 set for less than $90 locally so ordering online was the only option. I live on a small island so common part prices are sometimes inflated. Wires are HGK part number 51416 and NGK V-Power plugs were part number GR4 2635. Wires and 2 boxes of 4 (8 total) plugs ran me $56.29 with free shipping. Unfortunately they only came in blue with orange boots.
I have the new HEI distributor, red 12ga wire (didn't have 10ga in stock and 12 seems acceptable), firewall plug connector, plugs/wires and a new timing light that I hope works. I'm going to start the points to HEI swap in about 4 hours. The plugs are pre-gapped at .040" but I've read going to .045" or even .050" is better for HEI. Any thoughts? I've read some say the fuel line will need to be completely replaced to go around the bigger dist cap and others say it can be "massaged" to fit. I hope it doesn't fit as I'd like to be forced to invest in a braided 6AN line with filter. I've always had in line filters on previous cars and not having one on this car kills me inside. God knows what kind of debris is getting pushed thru there. For fun, I think I'll make a video of the whole process. I've found several write ups with great info but a video would be great. As always, I'll post here when done. Ian p.s. I figured out how to make these images click-able for zooming purposes. I'll try to remember to do this from now on.
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From what I remember, all, HEI factory installs use 10 gauge wire. I would think there might be a reason for that.
Also, most manufactures will use what ever is cheapest & can get by with. 10 gauge wire cost more than 12 gauge wire. I do not think they would just throw in something that cost more for no apparent reason. Just a thought.
No tension with my comments, just typing what I am thinking about.
MBHD
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I agree that a bigger wire is needed. But , need to also add. Years ago, I was driving a 1967 Chevelle 4 door with 250 for a work car. 50 mile round trip daily for years. Popped in a HEI and used a jumper lead with alligator ends for most of that time to run power to the distributor. It always started! I miss driving that car. Got pulled over one day by a State Trooper. The driver side window would not roll down, it also had a side exhaust. I had already sold the front bumper/ grille and rear bumper (they were pristine) swapped out old parts and ran without the grille. Used fog lights for turn signals. Any way, he could not believe the car would even go past the speed limit.
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It's funny, I got started on the swap today and as I was looking through my parts I realized I ended up with 10ga wire after all. I'm wondering if it was on the wrong rack. Either way, that solves that.
In other news.. I'm stuck. Turns out I got the wrong firewall connectors so I couldn't get the wire run all the way. Second, I can't find TDC if my life depended on it. I've watched every timing video and read every thread I can find and I can't figure it out. Paper towel on hole, it pops out after a quick engine cycle (jumping starter) and the balancer mark is like 3-4 inches (advanced) of "0". I must have had that paper towel blow out 20 times and it's consistently way off. I'm not sure if the balancer mark is incorrect, or the "0" marker is the wrong part but I'm kinda stuck. I was gonna try the process on cylinder 6 in case I was passing TDC into the exhaust stroke. Perhaps I'm jumping to far by using the starter and I need to turn it manually? If so, pull the plugs and put a bolt on the balancer and turn?
My new, hopefully correct, firewall connectors come in the morning so I'll be back at it tomorrow. I spent about 3 hours trying to figure it out today so I'm hoping to go out there with some ideas so I don't spin my wheels.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Ian
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Best to, bump it till you get compression, then turn it manually till the piston reaches TDC. It's a little hard to get it just right, but you should be able to see the damper mark for TDC, if not, damper might have slipped?
MBHD
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Take a old sparkplug and gut it of the porcelin and electrode. Thread the inside for a bolt about 4" long to be used. Screw it in to the head and use the bolt as a dead stop.
Caution, do not use the starter! Turn the engine by hand!
Bring the piston up to almost TDC and mark the balancer, do the same from opposite direction, mark again. Divide the marks. That is where TDC is.
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Outside again, I've got the belts off and gloves on, spinning the harmonic damper is useless. I read the damper is 2 parts and joined by a rubber ring. I tried grunting the damper clockwise by hand and the outer portion turns (part my gloves touch) but the middle part connected to the crank stays still. The pistons don't move when I turn it either. So my damper is shot? Can I just get a new one and swap it? Does it just press/pull on/off? I have limited tools and think I'm in for a speed bump.
Perhaps I can find a way to turn it with the 3 holes, and find Tdc, then mark it on the inner portion and use that Mark to do timing? Might not be perfect but I need to get this on the road again.
Ian
Last edited by Ian67; 04/17/15 03:17 PM.
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They do have an interference fit on the crank snout, so you will need a puller to remove it and if the crank was drilled and tapped, then a correct balancer installer could be used to re-install it. With the engine in the vehicle, it will be slow going and tough trying to tap it back on with a hammer(not recommended though).
It will need to be removed ASAP and replaced, it is only a blink away from slinging off the end of the crank if you can move the outer ring by hand. There have been fatalities before from them coming off with the engine running, so don't start it up again!
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Arg, I have the hammer you say not to use but nothing else. I live on a small island with no tool rentals. Their are a few old timer mechanics here you might be able to make shorter work of this but I've never had the car in before and was trying to do everything myself. I'd have to have it towed in and everything.
Ian
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Couple things: HEI and fuel: I had to re-route mine. Don't force it too much or you'll end up buying a fuel pump along with the braided line. Don't ask me how I know... You can see mine here: For the wire: I took apart my firewall plug and re-used the connector that the resistance wire used. Nice and clean. If you google it there's a couple of websites that show how to do it. As to finding TDC: Take out all the plugs and the fan pulley is easy to turn. Hold your finger over the hole and you should be able to find it. Once you think you have it TDC look at the timing indicator on the crank pulley and if it's at or near 0 you have it. If you don't see the mark you're not at TDC. It's easy to get 180 out. You'll know it really quick when the car doesn't start and backfires on you. edit: well all this is out the window until you fix the damper issue.
Last edited by gbauer; 04/17/15 04:10 PM.
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Having limited access to tools often limits your abilities for sure. I'd check with some of those old timers and see if they may come to you or loan you what you need. Another problem with using a hammer in the car is you don't have a lot of room to swing it, and it becomes a real slow process, plus the shock of using one can easily separate the outer and inner rings and cause the new balancer to fail also. That, and your applying that same impact directly to your thrust bearing with each swing.
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Yeah, I've reviewed the use of the puller/installer tool and understand I'd need to tap/thread the crank to use the installer. I don't have any taps or anything so I'd have to buy everything. I've got a call into the parts store and they're getting me a price on the damper and whether a sister store off island can send over the tools I need to rent/borrow.
Im a little nervous about the tapping/threading part with never doing it before and working inside the engine Bay. I suppose I could pull the rad and grill to make room.
Ian
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And of course a drill if you didn't have one of those.
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Lol, we'll I do have a drill and common tool box bits. I have mostly woodworking tools. I found a post here that suggests the damper can be heated which allows it to be slipped on with ease and maybe only light hammering required. Still no reply from the auto parts store. Obviously they aren't as motivated as me. Ian
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Point of interest. I ran both Isky Turbo Cycle cams years ago and the one that Crane and Comp recommended back in the 80s. The STOCK REPLACEMENT Chevy truck cam of the day ran better than any of them at any boost up to about 14psi.
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Point of interest. I ran both Isky Turbo Cycle cams years ago and the one that Crane and Comp recommended back in the 80s. The STOCK REPLACEMENT Chevy truck cam of the day ran better than any of them at any boost up to about 14psi. If you can, post those specs on those cams that ran worse than stock. Isky would probably still recommend that same grind but I think the Comp Cam people would recommend something different depending on your goal/mods. What those companies would recommend in the 80's should be different than what they would recommend for todays applications, if not, they need to update there master cam catalogs & update their staff. Just my two cents. MBHD
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I got the new balancer installed today. I ended up getting it from Amazon.com for $60, but I had to cross the border to get it. Removal was impossible without pulling the radiator and fan. The puller I borrowed was home made and had 3 hooks on it, but the hooks grappled the outer ring and pulled it clean off the inner ring. The rubber seal cracked into about 10 pieces. I managed to use 3 x 3/8" bolts with the puller to yank the rest off, but it took a lot longer than expected. I opted to try the stove top method to install the new one. I put it face up on my stove element for about 3 minutes on high (I stood there holding the belt grooves until I couldn't hold it any more) and then ran it outside with gloves on and pushed it on the crank by hand. Got it about 9/10ths of the way on but ended up having to wack it about 10 times in the center with a rubber mallet, but it went on super easy. Probably took about 8 minutes to heat & install the new one. I put it all back together with the new HEI and it works pretty good at what looks like 6' advance (3 lines advanced of zero). That being said, when I was coming home from a test run, I had the pedal down all the way and was going about 15mph up a steep hill I can normally zip up (30-40mph?) without issue. Once it leveled out I could feel the car accelerate quickly. Seems like I have some hesitation at the low end. Not sure how that has come up. Perhaps I need to play with the timing some more or double check all my connections. I've got a little over a grand in the turbo savings... it's about time to buy some parts. I'll probably get the engine parts first and save the eBay stuff for last as my chances of a DOA return are better if I don't have it for 5 months before I try it. Thanks for your continued support. Ian
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My friend that used to own my Camaro before me & including me used to just beat the damper back on w/a hammer & piece of wood, many times, (being 17-18 years old @ the time) we did not know any better, but, nothing ever happened to the engine, thrust bearings looked good, crank good, no damage what so-ever.
I later drilled & tapped the crankshaft for a damper bolt for easier installs.
MBHD
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I've read about people hammering them back on, and others who claim it's not good for bushings and whatnot. I'd rather just be "safe" and near burn myself with the heat method. Once I have the engine out I'll thread the crank for next time. As an update, I adjusted the timing for initial and total timing and it goes like a hot damn now. What an upgrade for the cost. If it wasn't for the balancer it would have been a lot quicker too. I've got the Transgo 350 1&2 shift kit on the way for my TH350. Looks like the Transgo kit was more popular than some others and since cost was similar I went with it. I've watched a couple installation videos (including the dated official hour long Transgo one) and have a good idea how to do it, but is there anything specific (certain springs?) I should do to have it setup for the turbo? Perhaps I just install it now and then tweak it later once the turbo is in? Ian
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Transgo make good shift kits.
If you like the tires to bark going into second gear & 3rd, that is a matter of choice, as long as it shifts quickly & not so harsh, it should be good for a turbo app.
If you set it so it shifts harsh into second gear with a turbo & regular street tires, it just might want to get loose on you too easily.
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I have the B&M kit in my th350, I went with the heavy duty placement rather than the street strip since my car is heavy. Installation was easy peasy. Took longer to get the trans out of the car than it did to install the kit.
Not sure about the transgo but they sound reputable. You'll love the way the car drives. Much better overall performance and I imagine better transient response with boost = less lag = more smiles per gallon.
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Yeah it was either B&M or the Transgo and I rolled the dice with the Transgo. I understand the kits come with several spring configurations that will affect how hard the gears shift. I'd like it to be more noticeable than stock but not too hard. Anyone used the Transgo who can comment on this?
Ian
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Today I installed the TransGo shift kit. The kit provided several spring combinations but I went with the stock governor springs and the Orange "competition/prostreet" spring on the 2-3 shift. Took me about 4 hours to install, a solid hour involved removing the tranny mount bar (crossmember?) as I couldn't access the rear pan bolts. Not too difficult but with cleaning and finding the right tools, it took longer than expected.
I test drove it before and after, noting some obvious improvements after the fact. The gear shifts are a little harder, and it holds first and 2nd longer than before. It's quite obvious the late shifts allow for quicker acceleration and more power between gears. Being able to manually shift is wicked as I can really stretch 1st out and roar down the street. Manually switching from 1st to 2nd is satisfying as is responds well. It's also really nice to be able to downshift when going uphill as it always wanted to crawl uphill in 2nd before.
Much fun indeed. The engine is running well and I don't think there is anything else I can do before I rebuild it for the turbo. Guess it's time to buy some parts.
Ian
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I want to start ordering parts. Turbo, intercooler, piping, hat, BOV and wastegate. Having these parts now will allow me to mock up the placement and fabricate whatever piping is needed so less work is required during the rebuild phase. I had planned to buy SPA Turbo brand BOV and wastegate but it seems they have discontinued the models I wanted and raised prices. Good for them, bad for me. So now I'm interested in Wyntonm brand parts. They seem to rate well as a budget brand and are within my price range. I have selected the following two, do they seem appropriate for my 8-12psi goals? Wyntonm 44mm BOV w/3" pipe Wyntonm 38mm 10psi Wastegate I think the BOV will be fine, but I don't quite understand what the wastegate psi (10 in this case) is referencing. Does that mean anything over 10psi will be diverted to the downpipe? Ian
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