Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines another 261 question

I've been reading the the old post and havn't quite figured this out- I'm looking at buying a 261 to put into my '53 project car. I've located an engine and the price seems right. It came out of a 1958 1 ton chevy truck, but the owner thinks it may be a 57 engine. From reading the old threads It sounds as though there was a change in the oil filter system in 1958. My question is should I pass on the '57 if that is what it is? if it is a '57 is this a motor that can be adapted with a full presure spin on filter? If so, is it also the type talked about where the oil lines are close to the exhaust manifold and because of that a fire hazard? I don't want to pass up this motor if I can feel safe that I'm not going to set it ablaze some day. And I would want to update to a spin on filter if possible. Any advise or information would be great.

well i have worked on a lot of the 261 and 270gmc with the oil filtr and have never had a oil fire or seen an fire or even heard of an oil fire. so unless you have not got it on right you run a better chance of getting struck by lighting.
as far as the spin on filter i dont like them. with the cartage you get to see what isin the oil. that is why i use them on the v8 race motors i build for dirt tracks.

Dear Mr. Trident;

The instlation into a 53 can require using the side mount(s) on the engine/frame.

This is where the oil filter conversion mounts. There is no room on the firewall on that model either & the hand brake linkage is in the way too. Especially with headers.

Anything can be done as Bob points out. It's just that the risks far outweigh any benefits because the wheelhouse is the only mounting place left using that method.

So what you do is(#1)have a by-pass line made to connect the holes in the oil gallery. Now; Using commercial oil and changing @ 3,000 miles you don't need a filter.

You can(#2)mount the engine from the front, (like 1949)'freeing up' the engine block mount for the conversion which is safe using the 'spin on' adapter.

Either way, still get the 261" as there really rare these days and it will make your 53 far better in the process.

Bob will probably never see an oil fire on the dirt, as any lost oil goes there!! It is NOT splattered all over the engine compartment & HOT HEADERS which causes mass destruction and sometimes death almost instantly.

Good luck to all,

wow! "death almost instantly"? I'm not sure if your joking or serious. If serious are you talking about the spin on filters or the cartridge type or both? I'm pleading ignorance here- I've never seen one of these motors, but am going by what I've been learning through this site. I do think I will buy the motor. I change oil in all my cars/trucks now at 3,000 miles, so that will not be a problem. I just want the motor to last. This is going to be a driver. Hopefully driven every day. The only changes I would like to do (maybe) is the oil filter change over, modern HEI, dual exhaust and carb set up to give me the best mileage (with high rear end).From reading the old threads the oil filter update seemed to be what would be best for the motor, and I may be overly cautious, but I don't like the picture being painted in my mind of a ball of fire heading down interstate 70 in Missour at 65 MPH!
Bob- is the cartridge your talking about what was on the motor origionaly? Is it simulat to the canister (or same thing) as on the older 235's?

The by-pass canister won't work as it is for a "low pressure" system & the lines are to small.

The big trucks that came with the 261 engine had the filter mounted on the firewall which was conected with 1/2" steel lines. The ruber hoses that absorbed vibrations were not near the exhaust manifold.

so then it sounds like the way to go would be to mount the motor from the front and use the spin on filter if a filter is to be used at all. Does anyone have a photo of this? Is the front mount a fabricated part or some type of existing part that can be adapted?

I think Perma Cool makes it and there is a tech article here somewhere that shows it.

Mainly you need to remember the center hole is "in".

Happy Trails,

the ones i am talking about use the same cartrage as the 283-327's from the 50's 60's. on the 6 they are a little work to change i can see using the spinon there. i like them on the track because you dont get a hole punched in them as guick.
and you are right to want an oil filter if you did not need one we would not have them on cars now.
every 261 i ever saw the oil filter was bolted to the intake manifold and plumbed to the motor with steel lines.
if you do mount it remote then use braded s.s. lines if not the lines will break from vibration.

My 261 came out of a '62 suburban. It had the oil cannister mounted to the intake manifold on the aft side of the intake manifold. Since this hit my steering box I was able to just make new lines and run it on the forward side of the engine. Since it just uses 1/2" NPT pipe thread on the block and filter you can use standard fittings. You can either use the big cartridge filter that comes with the engine (It's the same as the early V8 cart filter), or use a remote spin-on kit, which will bolt right up too. Just make sure you get a spin-on kit for filters with a built in pressure relief bypass, or you risk catastrophic failure if the filter plugs up. The stock cannister has a bypass built into the top of the filter.

If you run new lines you can mount the oil filter anywhere you find convenient, although it is a good idea to keep the lines as short as possible so the bearings don't run dry on startup.

As far as the oil pressure gauge line goes, you can either keep the stock adaptor which is a collar with a 1/8" NPT hole in it mounted on the return oil line, or tap a 1/8" NPT hole into the filter housing on the return side. You want the oil pressure gauge on the downstream side of the filter for the most accurate reading.

I agree with Bob and 4on the floor.I had duel remote spinons on my 261 mounted on intake. I plumbed mine with reuseable airquip hose and fittings, not as nice as stainless steel but cheaper and worked well. I've seen 261's with old ntc cummins filters mounted in front of radator, added about another gallon of oil and also acted somewhat as oil cooler.

Update: Yesterday I bought the 261. A complete motor, bellhousing, clutch, etc. I've checked out the casting # and it is for sure a '55-'57 motor. Now I'm going to write what I think I know and have learned from all of the great help I have received here. I may be wrong on some of this so, please correct me if thats the case- best way to learn (and avoid costly mistakes). This is a 2nd series (1-3) motor. It does not have the full pressure oil system, but I can make it one. I can add a spin on type oil filter. I will mount the motor from the front (this motor already has front mounts and there are rear mounts on the bell housing). An 838 head will improve performance and I will need one to make the full flow system. - I think thats about it. I tore the motor down today and it apears to be ok. I'll start the rebuild soon once I have a good understanding of what I need. Thanks in advance to all!

the way I understand it, it's an 848 head (last three digits of the casting number) which is a 235 head. You don't need it for the full flow system. The only advantage to it is that it's a slightly smaller combustion chamber, therefore, it will give you about a half point higher compression. You will have to drill the steam holes in it to fit the 261 properly. Would you mind telling me what the casting number is on the block? I actually want the block you have, and you want the block I have! I have the full flow 261, factory (1961). I want the one you have. If you'd be willing to trade, I'll cover the cost of shipping for both of us.

805-231-1645

Josh

The block number is 3837012. But I thought the full flow was better? Why would you want the older block? I have the head (and rest of the motor) from the origional '53 235 babbit. If I am going to have the head rebuilt anyway would it be better to use the 235? I'm not sure about a trade Josh but will consider it. I'm just at the "what if" stage. I'm still not sure- can the block I have be made into a full flow?

Fair enough, after just speaking on the phone to you, i think we both have some investigating to do. I just looked up your block number, and it's the same as the block number from the other block I've got a line on. However, I'm confused...See my new topic for further details!

thanks again!