Thanks for all the replies!
I was afraid the blocks where too thin for sleeves. I think it was on Tom's 12Bolt site? or maybe on this forum? I saw some images of a block he sliced up. The cylinder walls do not look very thick. I can post some of those images here if Tom says it's OK.
I have read over on the Speed-Talk forum about a technique where a very thin sleeve (thinner than normal) is used with a 0.0005" to 0.001" interference fit to help with distortion. It's also recommended to use a anaerobic sleeve retainer like Loctite 640. Of course, the use of a sleeve retaining adhesive then opens a forum discussion "can of worms" about whether it hurts thermal transfer between the sleeve and block...
Tom: I saw those beautiful forged pistons on your site offered in a 0.065" over-bore. I think you call them the "Block Savers." Because this engine will be used in a heavy truck, and will see long events with the pedal to the floor, I would like to keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible. I'm told this should help with cooling. Maybe a compromise would be a partial coolant jacket fill at the bottom, and add an oil cooler to the engine?
What I need to do next, is get both of these 292's fully disassembled and cleaned. I can then magnetic check for cracks, and pressure test the heads and blocks. I'll then measure the bores, check the decks and mains for straightness, and finally sonic check all the cylinder walls for thicknesses. This would at least let me know what I'm starting with. Fingers crossed I have at least one good block.
I will say that I consider this project to be like most of the things I do. For me, the most fun is learning something new.
In the end, all of this will be a collection of wins, hopefully few losses, and a whole lot of compromising.
David
