Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Full Flow Conversion Safety Concern

RR;

The pin acts as a 'diverter' valve.

If It's in, you have a 'full flow' filter using the openings in the block etc.

If It's out, you have no filter & the holes are pluged except the one in the rear which is used for the pressure guage.

I usually just pull the pin out, (if It's not already) on mine. No chance for a lawsuit that way, or ANY other BS.

If the customer alters one of my engines & there's a problem; "It's on them".

PS: If you plug the holes with it (the pin) in, oil will NOT flow to the rear of the engine.

W;

Do you have a part # or a year model application??

Road Runner,
The pin is located right above the fitting in your picture. The flat area just ahead of the fitting would be where you would attach the return line if you were using the old style bypass filter, as it would just dump back into the pan at that point.

Gearhead, if the pin is "in", the oil passage is blocked to use a filter. If It is "out", it does no good to put a filter on it. All the pin does is block the oil flow from the pump to the engine bearings. This forces all the oil to go through the filter. Joe

Ah, thanks again gearhead.
I wondered if that big round plug-thing could be the pin, just pushed all the way in. It all makes sense now.
So the picture in the 60 manual still shows a small plug for a then still threaded return inlet. - It looked like a pin sticking out to my inexperienced eye.
This is my first 261.
I definitely will use a filter on this full-flow-filtering engine, as it will be used for longer freeways trips across the desert, once a month.

I also keep the bypass filter on my 235.
It has good oil pressure and earlier this year I capped the oil line to the canister inlet and there was no change in oil pressure.

Running my only two engines with oil filters and detergent oil is an easy decision to make:
I really want to keep them in best condition possible for the longest time without rebuilt.
PCV system is another must have for me.

Thanks for all the helpful info and explanations.
What a great site, been reading for the last couple of years and thought I start muddying the water with me newest 261 find.

When I get closer to the rebuilt, I will have more simple and basic street rod questions, if the archives don't have the answers anyway...

RR;

Yes; That's it.

Flush with the outside of block is (out), a 3/8" recess there & Its (pushed in), just above the silver colored fitting you've installed.

Those never had a 'by-pass' filter. Only the 1954 ones.

Runner,
Great, sounds like you've got it.

Joe,
I thought that's what I've been saying, just not in those terms. Running a filter with the pin "out" is like running a bypass filter. It doesn't filter as much, but it does filter.
Again, I recommend pushing the pin in and running a Ford style spin-on bypass filter.

John,
all 54-58 261's are bypass only, just like the 235. Please make a note of it.

My 261 is from 1960 and it still has provisions for a bypass filter setup, like Runner was refering to in his manual.

B;

Okay, I see what you mean "provisions for".

Sure; the threaded holes were there (pluged) but that type of filter wasn't used in California on trucks, after the 1954 model year.

Why change the molds/castings??

I guess one could have been installed at a Dealer as an 'extra', or whatever. They never worked (by-pass) and that's they were discontinued on commercial vehicles. It was a waste of time and money for everyone.

The "remote" (full flow) was good in theory, but to dangerous in practice and it was discontinued also, in favor of the (right side) spin on which was/is almost 'foolproof'.