Inliners International Forums General Discussion Truck Talk No Truck Drivers

I can't believe that there has been no activity in this forum for over two months. There has to be somebody besides me who is working on their truck and has some questions or ideas.

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Ontario Inliners

I have a truck, a 1965 GMC 910. I also have questions and ideas, your signature says Ontario Inliners is that Ontario, California or Ontario, Canada?

We are out there - in the rain on gravel driveways fixing intermitent electrical problems ... My 66 Chev decided it wanted some money spent on it, so I haven't had much chance to chat. Still trying to figure out why when the headlights are on my left tail light goes out when I turn the right signal indicator on - and not it isn't the new bulb, or the new turn signal switch and harness ...
any ideas?

Bannear, I've got a 63 Chevy C20 (daily driver) and factory manual. Is there any wiring that looks like it has been molested?
short&wide65, are you in California? I'm in the Silicon valley.
I'm looking at putting power steering in my 63, so far I've found two problems. The steering shaft needs to be shorten 2 inches or it ends up point blank. The next one is a bit more difficult, the stock ps brackets weren't made with headers in mind.

Larry
63 Chev. C20
65 Chev Custom C10

Bannear,you may have a bad ground at that taillight.Turn the lights on with that blinker on and run a test lead from the taillight to the frame......if the light now works right you do have a bad ground.An easy way to fix this is to run a ground strap from that light to the frame.Good luck.......and take care
A fellow trucker

Lgriffin, I'm in Ontario Canada, about 45min north of Toronto. I wish I was in California, It's currently -30 up here.

[This message has been edited by short&wide65 (edited 01-28-2003).]

Short & Wide, I am in Southern Ontario, Canada. Just outside Hamilton actually. Drop me an email so we can hook up. I also have a '65 C10 with the 292 and 5 spd.

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Ontario Inliners

1940 Chev Sedan
1954 Chev Custom
1965 Chev Pick-up

I sent you an email. I have a 65 GMC 910

I have a 55 2nd Series Chevy. Currently in the garage in pieces. We are doing a frame up and have disassembled everything. Cold weather has slowed us down a bit we are ready to paint the frame but its only 30 in the garage.

Anyone want to come help put it back together

Hop to it girl! that's what heaters are for

I'd help, but I'm frozen in WI

Just last week, I visited Jim Carter Classic Truck Parts outside of KC, Mo. Unbelievable stocks of NOS, repro, and used parts. And Jim is a true Inliner, as well as a very nice guy. Looking for a 261? Jim has rebuilt 261 short blocks priced right. Look for a full "Vendor Spotlight" article in the 12 Port News before long.

There are a lot of us truck folks out here, just nothing as interesting as what most enthusists post here for projects. 1976 C10 250 powered 3 speed manual (still on the column) rusted up farm truck which still runs great and getting a fresh 250 which does not burn oil, type stuff. Original owner on a stock rebuild with homemade 6 into 1 header looking to put a progressive 2 bbl on it for gas mileage. dull...dull...dull, but fun. jeff

Gearhead,

Not too cold for me too cold for the paint.

We are going to Por-15 the frame and it is supposed to be at least 50 for a good three days(per their tech support line). Would rather wait and do it right the first time. In the meantime I am rebuilding the generator, starter and carb so they will all be ready when time comes.

Sounds like a plan. Any experience with POR-15 before?

Don't get it on your skin or you'll be wearing it for several days. Use a proper respirator and have plenty of ventilation. As for application, how rough is the frame? regardless of what the reps tell you, it would be best to sandblast or dip it, then coat it. If you can't do that, then at least make sure all the heavy scale has been removed, and any heavy pitting has been ground enough to take down any high spots. Use a wire brush, sandpaper, grinder, etc.. on the rest. Make sure it is VERY clean. You don't want anything "poking thru" the POR-15 or you've wasted your time. You should also plan on topcoating it with something, and I would do this before it dries completely, since sanding is not recommended. Wait till you can just touch it without getting any on your fingers. If you brush paint it, try to get several people to help so the flash time between start and finish is kept to a minimum, otherwise by the time you get it coated, the first half will be ready to topcoat, but the second half won't. Hot humid days almost cut the drying time in half, also. Allow at least a 3 hour window open after your done coating so it can dry enough and you have time to topcoat.

Gearhead, have you had any luck putting POR-15 over a sandblasted frame? I did the Malibu daily driver that way, blasted the frame completely and painted it. Didn't last 3 months until the paint was wearing off in different areas. Had a buddy with the same problem. I for one will not sandblast before using the POR. I like the paint but will just use it over a wire brushed surface. Just my 2c

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Ontario Inliners

1940 Chev Sedan
1954 Chev Custom
1965 Chev Pick-up

Yes, all the time. Never had a problem. I wasn't there, so I can't tell you what went wrong.

I had similar experience to GMDad. Went to a lot of trouble cleaning up a subframe and rear end and painted it with POR-15. First time in a quarter car wash, it all came off in sheets. When I complained to the distributor I was told I should have used their primer over clean metal - the paint is designed to work as named - "Paint Over Rust". It bonds with rust, can't get a bite on clean shiny metal. They sent me two free cans and one of primer.

Yes, we've Por-15'd before. Surprisingly the frame was the only part of the truck that was not rusted too bad. Had one heck of a time getting off the remaining undercoating. After much scrapping we are wire brushing, by hand and drill, using POR 15 degreaser (just in case we missed anything) and their metal prep before the por-15 and then will be topcoating with (if I remember correctly) the chassis black (it could be the hardcoat topcoat) I thought about sandblasting but thought that might make it too clean. Thanks for the additional advice.

If any of you havent used it it is a great product but more than that their tech support and customer service is great too

Well, I don't know what else to say. I've even used it on brand new parts like the tubular A-arms on the Muskrat II. Just scuffed them up with 120, wiped them dowm with denatured alcohol, POR-15, let flash, sprayed on some Marhyde self-etching primer, then the color coat. Still on there after 3 years.

Sandblasting can still be used. You don't need to take all the rust off, just the scale and "skin" that develops over time. For me it saves time, as I don't have to physically work around odd shapes, rivets, etc...

For those of you with negative results, I would ask what was done between the sandblasting and the POR-15, and was it topcoated? brushed on or sprayed? I generally use the "clear" and I only use enough to get full coverage. Always brushed on. I have never used any kind of Metal Prep or Wash of any kind, other than wiping down with thinner or alcohol.

I never meant to imply that it doesn't work over rust. I use it "as intended" most of the time. I guess I just prefer to get things as clean as possible, and I use the POR-15 as "insurance" against future rust. Apparently I'm a luckier person than I thought.

I had the frame sandblasted and then I think all they did was blow it off and then sprayed the POR1-15 on with their gun. I am not sure if they diluted it or anything but they used 1 qt. of black to paint the firewall, all the front suspension and the chassis back to the middle of the rear door on our wagon and then I brought it home and finished the rest by brushing it on. It seemed to stay on better on the back half but between the paint not staying on and I wasn't happy with the 305 and 700R4 in it, my neighbour now owns the vehicle. We have an awfull tendency to fix up these cars and then sell them, some times even get my investment back out of it, and then start all over with a different project. I should take up model building, it takes less room and is easier on the pocket book.
I'm glad the POR-15 works good for you guys. I will use it agin but not over blasted metal without some type of primer first.

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Ontario Inliners

1940 Chev Sedan
1954 Chev Custom
1965 Chev Pick-up

Hey Chevygirl, I got a 57 swb 3100 inthe garage in the same condition as yours. Just cleaning the frame for paint. I'll come help you if you come help me.

I've always used a brush, never sprayed it on, but I think my problem with POR was related to shelf life, which seems to be critical with these products. Some of their disbutors are mom & pop operations, and during the off season (Summertime here in Florida) there are few shows or swap meets - they don't sell a lot of the stuff and it sits around. As far as I know the cans aren't marked with an expiration date so the paint could have been fairly old when I bought it. I also had poor results with the silver POR on a set of monoleaf springs, but of a different nature - the contents just would not completely combine in the can, and resulted in a lot of streaks in the paint, like my springs had been "antiqued". This time, the distributor said it was probably an old batch, and that they'd "had some problems" with the silver and replaced it free. But it has held up fine for over 5 years, so whatever the problem was, it didn't act like the black.

One thing POR is great for is patching rust holes using fiberglass cloth. I had some rust-out spots in the cab floor and repaired them this way until I could afford new floorboards, and had to use a sawzall to cut through these areas when I finally fixed it right a few years later. Awesome chemistry in this stuff.

Just out of curiosity, what can you guys buy a quart of the black POR-15 for down there? It runs about $45.00 up here dependkng on the dealer.

Chevyman,

Good to hear I'm not the only one with such a big project. Where are you located? I have no problem with helping out.

I'll send a picture when the frame is done.

$29 U.S. last time I checked.

Chevygirl, I'm in Rockford, IL, It's cold here too so working frame and suspension stuff til it gets warm enough to paint. I'm awful slow so this will be a long project for me.

Its a old post but I thought I would add what I am working on. I have a 68 short bed 4x4 gmc that I am doing a mild restoration on. It currently has a 350 in it with a th400 trans and 205 transfer case. But I have a 250 from another 68 truck that is going to be swapped in. So far I have added 3/4 ton running gear and all new power steering, a 2 inch lift and 33 inch tires. The gas tank is from a 72 Blazer and is relocated under the bed. I decided to go the 250-6 route because it seems I have already been there done that with the V8's. I just bought a small 23 foot camp trailer today so now I am wondering if the 250 will have enough guts to handle the 3000 or so pounds. Hmmm

How heavy is your trailer? Is it a hardtop or a full camper ? When I originally put my '40 on the road it had a bone stock 250 with single barrel, exhaust manifold, 2:56 gears and a saginaw 4 speed. We were towing a hardtop no problems then worked up to a 26' Glendale(a bit of a heavy trailer). It would tow it but you knew you had it on. Thus the reworked 250 (.060", cam, headers and a 4 bbl along with a 3:36 gear. Then I went stupid a put a 350 in it but that's another story.

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Ontario Inliners

1940 Chev Sedan
1954 Chev Custom
1965 Chev Pick-up

I am building a '47 half ton pickup to be used mainly for towing my race car trailers to the strip. It has a 3" chopped top, a customized grill area, and a Pro's Pick smoothie box and tailgate. It currently has a 460 V8 / C6 trans / 9" 3.25 posi rear end.

The body and frame were sandblasted and all body panels were painted with two part catylized primer. The frame was sandblasted and painted with acryllic enamel with 1:4 urethane hardener catylist using a brush. I hope this will prove to be a durable chip resistant choice.

For the final engine choice I am in a quandry. Should I use a 523 BBF stroker motor or a 300 six? You can build a real inexpensive 523 using 240 six connecting rods. But then there is no room for a power steering box (cross steered). Or I could build a 300 with power steering and pay the price in towing performance. I am leaning toward the 523 route because someone pointed out that with a car hauler hitched on, which is how the truck will be driven the most, the load on the front end will actually be lessened by the tongue weight.

What would you do?

I know that this is the Inliners board but for a tow vehicle I'd go with the big cubes. I'm sure the 300 six could be built to do a respectable job in a towing situation also but the big 523 will have a major advantage.

Tom

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Building a '69 C10 short stepside mild custom.

Regarding POR-15: The April 2003 issue of "AUTO RESTORER" has a comparison test between POR-15 and EASTWOOD's RUST ENCAPSULATOR. EASTWOOD has it posted on their web site if anyone is interested.

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Drew
'55 Chevy

I'll stick my 2 cents in too about POR15. I did my rear axle, front suspension, etc with POR Black. I was told to put on new clean surfaces a "Surface Prepare" spray which smelled like an acid wash. I was told that you have to prepare new clean sufaces foe the POR to stick. It worked great and I have used it over rusted pieces just wire brushed and it's amazing! It's better that powder coating in some instances!

RapRap
1940 ChevyChoppedCoupe

Hello, I use Por15 regularly with great success and no problems in ten years. Think the problem was spraying which as I recall the manufacturer does not recommend. Another thing I have learned is " never take the can lid off". Punch a small hole in side as high as possible and a hole 180 degrees opposite in the top for a vent.Pour out only enough to use with in ten minutes max. and Install sheet metal screws in the holes imediately. When and ready to return the can to the shelf, with screws install, invert the momentarily to seal the screws Por 15 will last for sveral months at least when store this way. It works for me--Paul

Mother Trucker has landed @ Inliners Intl.

[This message has been edited by mothertrucker (edited 12-28-2003).]

Welcome MT! Lotsa truckers here. We look forward to your expertise.

Thanks for the greeting. I don't know about the "expertise" thing but, I have been messin' around with 1947-1955 1st series Chevy/GMC trucks for 27 years now.


Anyone else out there own an Advance Design GM truck?

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http://community.webshots.com/user/mothertrucker101

http://www.sbgd.com/main/56chevy/ch17.html


http://community.webshots.com/user/mothertruckeraz

OK OK OK, I have a really unique '53 Chevy, a 3/4 ton factory stake side rig. I have all the stake sides, minus the upper row, prev owner needed kindling I guess. It's a great driver, powered by a 54 235, split manifold, otherwise basically stock. This unit needs it all, but I like it because I don't have to worry about scratches, dents, road kill or any of the usual things that I've worried about driving other old cars/trucks I've owned. Only options, factory heater and grill guard. Oh yes, Okie chrome front bumper.