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#13964 01/14/07 03:55 PM
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Hi fellows, I've been tearing down my 235 motor to pull it for a rebuild. Currently my 848 head has an line from a tee fitting at the filter return going to the head and flowing oil to the rockers. Also inside the side cover is a line coming from the rear of the block to the same spot and also flowing oil to the rockers. The fittings on the line inside the block have very small holes. It is to restrict the flow to the head? Is it wrong if one were to open thees fittings to flow more oil? I would like to loose the oil line to the side of the head. It almost seems as thought it was put there to solve a problem? I would think any small amount of dirt could block the flow through these small openings in the fittings and close the flow to the head. Again thanks for any help here.
Dominic

#13965 01/14/07 04:17 PM
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Dear Dominic;

The additional line (from filter) was probably put there because the rockers wern't oiling from below, through the 'inside' line etc.

When things are all apart & cleaned, just check the flow through the line and oil passages in both the block & head.

Also; The line has enough oil flow and doesn't need enlargement, just clear.

BTW: For stock compression us a stock (head gasket). For 10:1 & above the copper one is better. The "main thing" is that both (block/head) are flat and clean.

Good luck. \:\)


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#13966 01/14/07 04:46 PM
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Hi John, and thanks for your reply. I had a feeling the added line was to fix a problem. I'm always looking to those with the experience, that I don't have, to see if original systems have been modified and made better.
Thanks again John, Dominic

#13967 01/15/07 02:05 PM
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Not sure on a Chev but on a GMC I always run the oil pump with an old long screw diver shaft and 1/2' drill motor with valve cover off to make sure everything is oiling properly prior to initial start-up. Fills the oil filter too. After a minute or so have someone run the starter with the spark plugs out as well when you are turning the oil pump. If it all looks and sounds good replace the distributor/plugs and start it up....Good Luck


216.158 MPH 12-Port 302 GMC on 70% 171.0 MPH 302 stock head on gasoline 7 years later
#13968 01/15/07 02:56 PM
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52HT,It also won't hurt to run a 1/16th inch bit in each end of the "inside" oil feed line to remove any burr or crimp from when the line was originally cut. Just make sure to blow it out thoroughly to remove any filings.In my case I just made a new line.


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#13969 01/15/07 08:35 PM
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Hey Jimmy, I've done that before. You can be sure I will again when the engine is re-assembled after the machine work is done.
Hi Drew, the line looks to have a double crimp? Just like a brake line would have. I had a thought to make a new line that would have a slight drop back to the rear of the block. Wouldn't it be a better idea to have whatever oil is in the line to drain back after the engine has been turned off? The line that I removed had a trap in it. Am I wrong to think the oil could sit and maybe deposit any dirt that could be in the oil and then maybe clog the passage again? Or am I jus over thinking this thing? Of course after the rebuild the oil would be kept clean.
Drew, when you made your new line, did you use the existing fittings and the same diameter hole in those fittings?
Thanks for listing to my rambling guys,
Dominic

#13970 01/16/07 12:13 AM
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Delete that outside line.

If you are tearing in completely down, you may want to consider modifying it to full flow, like in the article in the "tech tips" section on the left sidebar of this website.

Leave the hole sizes in the internal line fittings alone. They are they to help regulate the amount of oil to the top of the head.

Taking the "trap" out of the line shouldn't hurt anything, but as you say, it will be taken proper care of from now on, so....

You didn't say what year the engine is, but if it's a 53-57...
Use the Felpro of Victor gasket sets. The last Victor I got from Patrick's and it included the rubber rear main seal and the head gasket had the front water passages restricted to push more water to the back of the block, the Felpro I had before that didn't. The copper gaskets are just stock replacements that are thicker and require re-torqing. It's also the only head gasket I've ever blown. Of course, if the engine is earlier than '53, it may be your only choice.


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#13971 01/16/07 12:29 AM
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I used new fittings and line because someone had previously buggered the fittings.I would say I didn't have any "trap" so to speak,but I did make sure the bends between the fittings were smooth.As gearhead says going the "full flow" route would be better for better filtering as the factory style filter doesn't do much at all. I currently don't run any filter, just watch the oil closely.


Drew
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#13972 01/16/07 07:37 PM
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Hi Guys, it's a 54, 235 with an 848 head. Yep I am going to drill for full flow. I'm not such a smarty when it comes to the specifics. But, I am learning lots from the chevy forums that I visit daily. The help from folks like yourselves make the hard jobs just a little easier. As always, thanks everyone.
Dominic


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