Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance Recieved my Turbo Today....

Looks good,no shaft play, fresh rebuild. Only issue is one of the exhaust housing bolt holes needs to be re drilled and tapped.

looks good, what is the size of the hole for the compressor input? i also see it is not water cooled. that makes for a easier install. mine is watercooled. that turbo should be the start of a interesting project. keep us posted. tom

The compressor has a 2in Inlet.

Seems its stamped .60/.82 the guys says The turbine wheel is a larger unit than stock. The turbine housing has been reworked to accomadate the bigger wheel, I believe it is what is called a "stage 3" turbine wheel.

This is a T3 style turbo correct? I believe it should be enough to feed my 4.1?

Can anyone verify if this is a "Stage 3 Wheel"

You can call up turbo companies to find out.
They should be able to tell you some measurements.

Do you plan on running an external wastgate?

That turbo would be fine for low boost application on a 4.1.

It is a T3 style.

MBHD

RevOD

How mutch HP you will be running?

Edy I have no idea how much HP. This is initially going on a stock motor.

MBHD - Yes It came with the stock actuator and housing but it points funny and directly into the block if I run it. The Turbine housing is at the shop right now getting the one bolt hole fixed.

You can rotate the set-up ,This should put things where you need them.

Yes but if I rotate the turbine in side where I want it the stock elbow points right at the block. The elbow I cannot rotate.

t6 means you can mount the exhaust housing at a different position when you put it back on. the compressor can also be "reclocked". one thing to do is contact a turbo company with measurements from both wheels and the housing #'s. they may be able to tell you more on how it will fit your application. for instance my turbo has a 4 inch input on the compressor and 3'' outlet. if you just run it, keep tabs on how fast the turbo is running by the sound. if it spools too fast in rpm, it can be damaged. tom

Not knowing the exact specs on the turbo, I would say you could get close to 400 HP running high octane fuel or methanol injection.

Probably w/6-8 lbs of boost ,you will be very happy w/the torque it will produce,since it's a stock engine for now. :-)

I'd say about 250- 300 HP should not be too hard to reach (at the wheels)

Keep us informed w/pics, your camera takes nice pics.

I think you can also unbolt the compressor housing & clock it in the correct direction,, or the turbine housing,(hard to tell w/the pics).

You can get one of those Buick GN bell mouthed/velosity stack type inlets & run a 3 or 4" hose to a K&N filter,(located where heat does not get to it)

MBHD

RevOD


i agree with Hank, 300HP on wheels is not hard to make! but without forjed rods i would not rev more than 6000 RPM!

Edy,,,
the rods are forged, the pistons are cast You just really need to monitor detonation, cast pistons cannot take much detonation before they blow apart.

I would buy a J&S safegaurd to control your timing & to prevent detonation.
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/
Works great on my Syclone, & my friend has one on his 572 BBC awesome!!!

MBHD

I understand that but here the deal. If I clock the turbine housing so the inlet faces down so I can run a j-pipe to it. the stock elbow/wastegate only points one way. which is right at the block.

I wish I could afford a $450 Kock guard lol... ill work something out for sure. Plan to order a wideband kit for it also. I have located one of the bells for the inlet side so thats taken care of.

Hank

In this case detonation is realy a great problem!!!

Rev

There is a "detonation sensor" from MSD, it has visual and sound alarms for detonation

http://www.msdignition.com/tool_8.htm

It costs about 200,00 US$

any one ever tried this one?

Were gonna run it safe with the timing locked out and also my MSD box has a timing retard, I might set up a hobs switch to pull timing when boost hits.

RevOD,,,

you do not need to lock out your timing,you can limit your mechanical advance in your distributor.

MBHD

Humm ill have to look into that

When I built my 250 last year, detonation was a terrible problem under boost. I ended up putting an MSD Boost Timing Master onto the car and it cleared up the knock wonderfully. The car ran great, and it only cost about $250.00 CA. So it should be quite resonable in the US. Just my 2 cents.

Yeah ive been looking for a MSD BTM would be the perfect addition.

What size oil feed line should I have going into the turbo? I have a -8an drain.

i'll check mine and get back to you. i believe it was 3/16 hard line or 1/4. but i will check to be sure. tom

I had a 1/4" braided stainless line made up for my turbo feed line, works good and looks good to.

I was able to repair the busted bolt hole. Drilled it out for a 3/8ths helicoil and had to helicoil one of the other ones. I tried to buy a flange for it under the impression that it was the same as the GN turbo. But its not so im having a custom flange milled for it.

RevOD,
can you post some pics of the wastegate valve & the exit of this adaptor?

I am pretty sure there are some areas to improve the exhaust flow & wastegate flow that you can do w/a grinder.

MBHD

Well I am not using the internal wastegate. We are going to use an external one so the flange im having made will cover up the stock WG hole.

Nope it doesn't seem to be. From what I can tell talking to the Buick Boys that bolt pattern was unique to the 84/85 Riveria T-Types only as well as the Elbow.

RevOD,,,
could you still post a pic of the exhaust exit of this adaptor?
Just curious to see the exit & inside of it.

Also, what does the exit measure? 2.250"? 2.5"

MBHD

RevOD,
not sure if you have an exhaust system yet??

But if not,, might I would suggest as big as you can fit.
Like 3" would be nice.
For the downpipe from the turbo use stainless tubing.
Tlowe: says you can get used Ford,Powerstroke diesel downpipes on Ebay cheap, because those guys are upgrading to larger downpipes and selling there old units.

As for a muffler, get one with a straight through design.Remember back pressure is bad for a turbo.

When you add a turbo or have a turbo car, the turbo is like having a muffler already installed, it really makes your exhaust sound quiet.

Hope this helps a little.

MBHD

yes i used a ford down pipe for my setup. they are stainless and have nice mandrel bends. easy to cut and weld to a different shape. i bought 2 at a swap meet for 10.00 . i also run no muffler. the turbo is all. it is not too loud, just right for me. tom

Ebay Item number: 170077435549 2" tubing
2.0" Stainless Steel UJ Exhaust Piping Tubing Bends JDM

Item number: 260082543308


3" - 45 & 180 - 304 Stainless Mandrel Bend Pipe Tubing
3" downpipe material Item number: 260082543308

I would love to use stainless problem is I don't have a tig set up to weld it with.

If a engine is knocking badly when under boost, is the correct fix to keep retarding timing until it stops? Why is it knocking badly to begin with? too much boost? too high intake temp? too lean mixture? etc. I'm thinking retarding the timing is fixing the symptom and not the cause. I'd want the ignition retard as safety, like when going up a long hill, etc.

Anyone else?

I'd want the ignition retard as safety, like when going up a long hill, etc.


[b]I would recommend one of these units. http://www.jandssafeguard.com/
The MSD boost timing unit cannot detect detonation, but w/the J&S unit you will be able to.

jres, the rate of combustion under boost is much faster than at regular running conditions. by turning the timing back it prevents the premature firing of the mixture while the piston is still traveling upward in compression stroke. tom

What's the rule of thumb in regards to ignition retard vs. amount of boost?
What Im trying to understand is when does one stop retarding the timing, and start looking for other problems causing detonation?

thanks for the responses

John

ussually it is 1 degree of timing per 1 lb of boost. it depends on many variables in each engine. tom