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i installed my new clifford cam in my 292 it is the mild 264 grind ( i don't know that much about cam theory). i spoke with them on the phone and they said 1100 rpm's for 10 mins would be a good break in. i did 2000 rpm's for 20 mins with my stock cam. i asked why the difference they said it was a hardened cam and the fewer rpm's for less would be ok. what does everyone else think? i want to do the best for it. the engine is all new and about a month from start up. thanks for input. not i don't trust their advice i just wondered what everyone else is doing.
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i forgot to ask if the pressed in rocker studs will be ok for this cam. i got the kit with hardened pushrods and springs and the works. thanks, hr
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I usually keep it around min,2000 RPM for 20 mins, Run for 10 minutes,(or for the full 20 mins if everything looks & sounds good), let it cool(check for leaks, timing etc), run again for another 10 minutes. I always ran non detergent oil for the break-in period. I also ran moly lube for the initial breakin period.***But as soon as you break in the cam, change your engine oil & filter(moly will plug up your filter) Most assy lube oil works great nowadays.
Most of the info I have gotten from Clifford I do not agree with 100% maybe 70-80% :-)
These techs on the phone lines(Clifford), I do not know where they get these people from?
MBHD
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A couple of important cam breakin tips: 1) use Shell Rotella oil with GM EOS. 2) Prime the motor before firing it. 3) Make good and sure that the timing and fuel systems are ready to go and fire the engine - if it doesen't want to start don't keep cranking it. 4) I use 2500 for 20 min's then stop, check the vlave lash and go again for 10 min's. The idea of more rpm is to get oil splashed up on the cam and lifters. 5) After 45 min's of operation I change the oil filter and cut the filter open to inspect it for debris. 6) I keep the same oil in the motor for 500 miles then change the filter and oil. Also check the valve lash.
After breaking in > 20 cams and some were radical NHRA stock eliminator cams ( read almost square lobes) this process has only let me done once and it was due to a bad lifter that would not pump up properly so it was basically smacking the cam.
51 GMC 4.2 turbo Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
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thank you both. i will prob run 2000 to 2500 for 20, after all he didn't say it would hurt he just said it wasn't needed. they were very nice i just wanted to get more opinions, that never hurts. i will use the nondeterg oil and i lubed up the cam with molly lube before i installed it. i wished they had sent some with the cam but i just got some crane cams lube.i also have a old dist shaft i put in a drill motor to prime it. i was interested about what they told me on the timing they said 18 to 28 deg advanced. i seem to have to run mine around 15 with the hei. should i shoot for about halfway and try 23 deg or as close as i can get for the start up? also are the stock rocker arm studs fine for this mild cam?
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Hoggy..
Do yourself a big favour and run Shell Rotella oil for the breakin. Just about ever other oil out there has a reduced zinc content in it which is the high pressure lubricant in the oil. The newer oils are fine for roller cams not flat tappet.
Maybe some others will chime in here..
51 GMC 4.2 turbo Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
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hoggyrubber, Could ya do us all a favor and let us know how you like that cam setup after you have broke it in and driven it awhile? I can't recall reading any previous posts where guys have used the Clifford 264 ( foggy memory), and I'd be interested in how you like it. I'm considering that one if/when I ever re-build my 292.Hope it works great for ya. Thanks.
Frank ------------- '69 Chevy C-20 292 4 spd. OD Offy intake Edelbrock 500cfm long tube headers 4:56 rears
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i think i will try the shell rotella after all what can it hurt. i have seen it before but never used it. i guess i can just get sae 30 wt. i wil let everyone know how i like it. i would say i'm about a month from start up. the bottom end is almost done. the head and extras to go. i also have to have the trans checked and install a new gas tank, mabey a little electrical stuff. at least the brakes and bearings are done- this truck has set for several years. i bet it's 2 months at least before its on the road, who knows that ice storm really set me back. thanks to everyone for the help.
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Just remember to change the oil out after the initial break-in minutes. Molly (the stuff you put on your cam), has a tendancy to plug oil filter.
MBHD
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Please use efi's instructions. The use of any of the diesel oils is a better place to start and in my opinon continue. They will soon loose more of their zinc content also but it's the best now out there. On my inlines I also use GM EOS on everything and poor the rest of the bottle down the push rods before putting on the valve cover. Good Luck
216.158 MPH 12-Port 302 GMC on 70% 171.0 MPH 302 stock head on gasoline 7 years later
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thanks, i will follow them they seem very sound. i will also use the shell rotella.
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Note the following site: http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/photos/FlatTappetCAmTech.htm Both Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo 400 are excellent truck oils with very high quality base stocks, with greater anti-wear additive packages, and and higher initial Base Number (generally above 10.0) for longer oil life. Note also that 15W40 viscosity oils are almost always truck oils.
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Where do you buy these oils? Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo 400 Thanks!
MBHD
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I've bought or seen Shell Rotella and/or Delo 400 at O'Reilley's, Advanced Auto Parts, and even Walmart. The Rotella is more plentiful here in the midwest.
Hoyt, Inliner #922
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Hey my name is Mike can I run synthetic? Just curious I have never heard one way or the other?
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Originally posted by nemesisjml: Hey my name is Mike can I run synthetic? Just curious I have never heard one way or the other? You can run synthetic, but I would not attempt to break in the cam on it. We run synthetic but only after the first 500-1000 miles on Rotella
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oh ok any thing special that has to be done or do you guys recommend not running it?
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Not really just do a complete oil and filter change and off you go.
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Do any of you guys run synthetic?
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nemesisjml, I have been using Mobil 1 15-50 in my 68 Camaro 250 for over a year now. I change the filter only @ 5000 miles, then change both oil & filter at the next 5000 miles. I have a convertible and ride a lot of girls in parades,staying in low for a couple of hours my temp has reached 250 degrees at times! the synthetics have great high temp qualities. That said,if I dont start for a week the lifters clatter like H***. So they don't solve all problems. Herb
68 Camaro 250 Clifford intake headers Holly 700r4 3:08 Cruiser I.I.3241
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250 degrees??????? and you haven't cracked a head yet???? that pretty lucky if you ask me.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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