Inliners International Forums General Discussion Electrical Pertronix/Delco conversiom

Anybody had good luck with this mod? I'm thinking about doing this when I get my 292 built. I have 2 used L-6 type delco points 'sticks on hand and a new-in-box accel blueprint points distr. One of these could be a good body donor. Comments?

[This message has been edited by '68OrangeSunshine (edited 03-06-2003).]

I have had great sucess with the Petronix
conversion. I had a HEI with the intergral coil, and it didn't look right on my 292. Too big! So I used the stock Distrib. and the new PetronixII conversion. It's as easy as changing points and you'll never think about "floating" points again. So far, I have over 2,000 miles of trouble free performance and it starts on the first click every time!

RapRap
1940 Chevy Coupe

I have to agree with RapRap. I've used Pertronicics for awhile now with no problems. I also like the idea that the distributor looks stock.

[This message has been edited by novaconv (edited 03-06-2003).]

Sounds like good news at last. I'm gonna run it on a .030-over 292 '68 w/390 Holley on Offy intake and out old Clifford headers.
Crane cam on shelf, Rhoads lifters on order, 305 type 1.84 intakes installed in head w/ 4 angle valve job.
Had a hell of a time getting NOS pushrods -- Tom Langdon's coming thru for about 1/3rd of dealer's 11 bucks each cost. Anyway, do I want the Ignitor I or II?
Application is a street/offroad 4x2 '68 C/10 Stepside pickup, sm465 out to corp 12-bolt 3.73:1. eaton posi. I don't race. Last engine went 250K miles.
Brian
#4101

Ignitor I or II will work just fine. Ignitor II is the lastest and greatest and is the one I used. Always go for the latest in electrical and mechanical technology! You'll never regret it. The first few cars/motors I built, I tried to do on a budget. Nothing wrong with a budget but after a few times of buying outdated parts and rebuilding those early pieces, I found out if you are patient and save the monies you need to do it with the best parts available, your sense of reliability and trust in your project far exceeds wondering if the swap meet parts you sandblasted really are going to hold up.

RapRap
1940 Chevy Coupe

So I should probably mount an Ignitor II on the NIB accell blueprint set and no worries?
Neither of the old school delco candlesticks came out of a swapmeet. The one that's on there since the old engine came aboard in the mid-'80s after I hit a deer in the mtns. I guess it's clapped out by now... The other was in the original engine "time capsule" I put up in the late '70s. I had it spin tested this summer by a local recalibration expert and it was pronounced good. So I could cannibalize the new points guts (deck plate) off the accell and have a conventional spare unit. Hmmmm.

OK, so I just got my Pertronix Ignitor II kit in the mail!
Can I use my old Mallory Voltmaster II coil p/n 28675 with it? How about Mallory chrome coil p/n 29217 (which has a placard on it "Note: not recommended for use with Hyfire or CD ignition systems?") Or do I have to get their Flamethrower II coil to make it work?
Will I have to run a clean wire from Ignition Unfused at the fuse block for pure 12vdc power, or can I use the old 20 ga yellow (+) coil lead? [that line drops volts to about 9vdc at operating temps]
--Subject vehicle is a '68 Chevy CS/10 Stepside--
Also, does this affect my tach hook-up? I got a new Autogage 3.75" tach so I won't redline on break-in.
Thanks
II #4101

'68 Orange-

I used the Flamethrower Chrome coil. The tach still hooks up to the neg. terminal on the coil. I have a 3 3/4" Classic 8,000 tach and it works fine.
I'm not sure if the Accel Hi output coil will work or fry the tach? Any help out there?

RapRap
1940 Chevy Coupe

RapRap -- Do you have the Flamethrower II coil?

Yes, I have the Flamethrower II Coil. It's just an updated(power) from the FlamethrowerI unit. Either would work just fine.
RapRap
1940 Chevy Coupe

Oh GEEZ!

And here I thought you guys were talkin about a REAL Flame Thrower...

My Bad!

Here I go doin research on the web for a Flame Thrower for my Camaro so I can roach some Rice when they pull up behind me and you guys are talkin about COILS! um... oops? hehehe...

Hmmmm.... I think I like what I found better...
http://www.autoloc.com/detail.lasso?itemid=FLAME2

S'mores anyone?


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(O)2(O)5(O)0(O)S(O)I(O)X
PHAT250Six
Git in! Sit Down! Shut Up! Hang On!
And when in doubt... STICK YER FOOT IN IT!
250 L6 in a '69 Camaro


[This message has been edited by PHAT250Six (edited 04-11-2003).]

Phat,

it's amazing what some people will do with their extra time....

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David
newbie #4153

Why didn't you say you wanted "Flamethrowers"
for your rear!

I have a set installed on my car and I purchased them from HotRods of Norcal. They have ads in Custom Rodder and they are on the web.
Good Luck and good Flamin'

RapRap
1940 Chevy Coupe

I've had this mod on my 230 for over a year now with no problems.

Be careful with ebay auctions. I ended up with a marine application, and there isn't any provision for vacuum advance. I can't say it has hurt my gas mileage though, I don't think the old one ever worked anyway.

Just my 2cents.

Gene

Well, I've got the Ignitor II coil on order.

Flamethrowers Humm how about Army surpplus .com LOL hum ya never know LOL jk=
just kiding have fun guys Just had to add my jokeing pennies / 2cents }[oooooo]



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NovaMan/Twisted6/Larry

I think I will break-in the engine on the old points system and Mallory "Voltmaster" big coil set up I've been using for years. And drop in the pertronix electronics after it's known good. I'm sorta leary of electronic ignition systems lately: I've been having trouble on the HEI in my V8 350 powered '71 GMC in the Tucson summer heat [101+]. I have replaced coil, module(s), plugs, special no-ohms grommet, etc -- just about every sure-cure the hot rod shop has for sale, and I still have this same gripe. When it's hot out and the engine is really warmed up by running all over town, if I'm getting on the freeway and I gun it, or I'm stomping throttle to get up the hill ... it sputters and stumbles and stalls out on me. If I let it cool with the hood up for 15 minutes to an hour, it starts right up I can continue driving.
Maybe it's vapor lock after all and not ignition? The fuel line runs very close to the 4 -tube -into -collector junction as it passes along the C-rail frame on the passenger side. Hmmm?
Maybe some silver wrap around the fuel line at that spot would keep the gas from cooking off? What about taping the headers? It would look way cool, but why does it void the warranty?
By the way, weren't flamethrowers banned by the Geneva Convention after WWII? That's why they weren't used in 'Nam? They were very effective on Iwo and Okinawa.
Semper FI.

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'71 GMC Jimmy 350, sm465, np205,3.73 posi.
'68 C/10 Stepside 292 (.030 over) Offy I,Holley 390,Clif ex, sm465, 3.73 posi.
'67 K/10 454 project.
'72 K/5 rolling frame project.

Ok, guys, here's mud in you eye!



RapRap
1940 Chevy Coupe

Have you tried new plug wires???

I guess I'll have to. I R&R'd everything else, including a new module yesterday and I still get about the same gripe. I know a few years ago, before I put those hotshot silverized fibreglas booties on each plug terminal boot to shield them from the hedders, I was burning up a set of wires weekly. Since the 350 was a crate motor, I brought it in to the Chevy dealership to be put on the scope -- under waranty since I thought it was valves. They told me my plugwires would fire ok until the engine got hot and then under load some of them would break down and stall because the heat from the hedders was cooking them. The current plug wires all check out ok with an ohmmeter at about the same resistance. But that's a cold reading. If insulating the fuel line as it goes by the pass side header collector doens't kill this gripe, I guess I'll have to replace the plugwires.
Another possibility is something strange in my '71 vintage e-p-a mandated fuel vent system. This system has a fuel vent and fuel vapor return line back to the tank. Maybe simplifying the fuel feed system to one line from the tank to the fuel pump (mechanical, stock) and carb (Carter AFB 600 cfm) would rule out vapor lock?

Hey Orange,

I've got a '74 3/4 ton with a 350 where a 454 used to be. I got the truck with the 350 and headers already installed on it. I had to do 3 things to get rid of a complaint exactly like yours:

1. Put a heat shield on the frame between the header pipes and the fuel lines. I made it out of 18 ga. sheet steel and pot riveted it to the c-channel.

2. Make another shield for anyplace where the exhaust pipes are routed beneath an exposed fuel pipe. I've got dual tanks on mine, so I made more shields for the tank switch valve and the crossover pipe from the drivers side tank.

3. Put a new fuel pump on there. I've used numerous brands over the years, and the only ones I trust nowadays are NAPA and AC-Delco.

Those EPA-mandated 2-line systems work pretty good to keep fuel in the pipe from overheating and vapor locking. The idea is to recirculate excess gas back into the tank so what is in the line doesn't get too hot. Leave it there and functioning.

The only things left to check, if you haven't already, are the rubber lines at the tank and anywhere else on the truck. If there are any cracks on the outside, replace them. Of course if you are going to the trouble of dropping your fuel tank to check them, then replace them regardless.

Hope this helps, as I fought those symptoms for a couple of YEARS before I got it licked. Yeah, I know, "years" is a long time, but I'm like the cobbler with the shoeless kids...

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David
newbie #4153

Thanks, I know all about the cobbler's barefoot kids. LOL.
I do have a Delco fuel pump w/ the extra line inputs. I suspected this circuit might be part of the problem. Since I also have a sunken float in the tank [e.g. no fuel gauge readout], I'll have to drop the tank any way. So you don't advise backdating the fuel feed system to a one- way line?
I just can't take the Jimmy off-line until I get the '68 stepside running with a newly rebuilt 292.
Chickens or Eggs, ya know?