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Took the dragster to a chassis shop yesterday. Went from bad to worse. His first words when he saw it was,"so THAT's the "exhaust pipe" rail". Don't have time to post now, but trust me, the news is all bad
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Well, the chassis shop "heard of it" so they went over it quite well. Basically picked it apart but at least I know what I have to work with, or don't as it turned out. About 80 % of the car is built out of exh tubing! Both the front and rear axles are solid mounted, which apperantly is a no-no. All the major bolt on assemblies are single shear instead of double shear. This was built and run for 4 years at a track that was eventually closed down. Each successive year he changed tracks as they failed him at tech. Finally he heard this track was going to fail him so he put it up for sale. I bought it and I was failed. *&^%$#@#$%!!!!!! Did I check it out before buying, well yes, however, to me (who has never been around this kind of stuff) it looked great. It started and drove and I got all these parts too. Well, he said the best thing to do would be take all the usefull automotive parts off it and cut it up. So am I ****ed? you bet, but, I look at it as a learning experience. The chassis shop said they can build me a new proper chassis over the winter so I think I might do that. And yes I thought of suing, but my lawyer said it would be a flimsy case. I bought "as is" etc. Live and learn I guess. I found a couple of dragster guys who are taking me "under their wing" so I should be alright. (you'd think the shop that welded in the extra bars the other saturday would of said something)
And how was your weekend???
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Don't dispair. You now have the opportunity to get a nice chassis. I agree with having front suspension. It will make your lights consistent. A simple torsion bar has been used sucessfully for years and will be fine. Look on ebay for the parts you will need after studying speed catalogs such as Mark Williams, ART, Chassis Engineering. FEDs can be built relatively cheaply and updated with trick little parts as you go. Good luck, we're rooting for you.
FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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What's wrong with exhaust pipe as chassis rails?
It's what, 16swg? Formula One cars were built of that and lighter for years! Right up until the monocoques came in, that's what they were... but they were properly triangulated.
And are those bolts in single shear strong enough to do the job?
Sometimes the experts are just a bit too 'expert'... life isn't all chrome moly.
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tailgunner, That is one of the most informative and interesting homepages I think I've ever read on Inliners.Hang in there with your rail.
Drew Mid-Atlantic Chapter
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DONT use exhaust pipe. It is of very low tensile strength. I saw a Fiat gasser that turned out to have been built using exhaust pipe blow a rear slick down track on its maiden voyage. The car rolled over and wadded up before it disintegrated.
The driver didn't survive...
DONT USE EXHAUST PIPE. BUILD THE CAR TO THE CURRENT RULE BOOK SPECS.
FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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Thanks to all that responded. FTF, the new "rail" will be built to spec, only not by me. I'm in the process of stripping it right now, can't believe that I paid about $300.00 a foot for exh pipe! Anyway, talked to the previous owner last night and he went ballistic, swearing that "it was safe and that's how they were all built years ago." Whatever, perhaps his strong offence was his defence. The shop won't be able to start until after Christmas he thinks, but it will go together quite quickly. Front engine, 110" wheelbase(longer wheelbase handles easier he said)suspension front and possibly rear also. Not decided. Frame will be wide enough for a v-8 in case I want it in the future.Actually I almost thought of going 4 cyl after seeing the picture on here of the "strange brew" dragster. (That is so cool, and the exact look I'm going for) However, I've enough ford 6 cyl parts to last a lifetime! Later
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I would recommend that you make the wheelbase at least 125", maybe 140". For two reasons: first I think the rule books define "rails" as having to have a wheelbase in excess of 125", and second, it will handle better with less tendency to wheelie. My old altered was 110" and suffered from too much wheelstand. New one is 125 with the engine placed 11" further forward. Big difference in handling.
FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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Really? Thanks for the info! Although, would that change the look too much? I've seen the "new" front engine dragsters that are built to look like late sixties top fuelers and I hate the look of them. Maybe your right though, more room for rad and fuel too. I'll have to see a pic of one at 125"-140" to see if it has "the look" I'm after. (I know it's stupid, but I want what I want I guess).
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The new nostalgia Top Fuelers have a w.b. of around 220" - 240". Way too long if you are looking for that early sixties look, I agree. But 140" is still relatively short and representative of rails in their early genesis. Plus if you are going to use an auto trans and a cooling system you will like the added space.
There is a racer around the midwest with a car similar to the one you are considering - I see him occasionally at the drags but can't remember his name. It is old school but very trick as he is a machinist. Runs a 300 Ford six. I think he mostly races at Dragway 42 in Ohio so if you want to do a search that would be the place to start. Good luck.
FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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tailgunner
Sorry to hear the bad news, on the plus side, you will now have a safe(r) vehicle.
Good luck
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