Inliners International Forums General Discussion MOPAR Source for head studs

I hear a lot of inliners mention installing head studs to replace bolts on the flathead. Where can I find them?
Thanks for the help, 40 plyguy

Any good machine shop can make a set for you.
EvilDr235

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I use B & B brand with their hardened washers and grade 8 nuts with lots of lube on the threads and mating nut/washer/head interfaces. Sorry no address at hand.

I used ARP head studs on my flatty, they are a component part number, or usually part of a kit for other engines. Because of this, you would have to order them direct from ARP, 800.826.3045. Ask for Kami. The part component part number for the stud is AP3.750-1LB. The ARP studs aren't cheap, the price works out for the stud, nut, and washer to be $4.90 each. Multiply x 21 and you've spent $102.90+ shipping. They are the best in the industry however, very nice quality. Here's what they look like:









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Thanks for the input. The studs are a bit pricey though. I'm wondering if the stock bolts weren't hard enough and if using a grade 8 or 10 bolt with a hardened washer would work as well. Either way if I rebuild my engine, I will have to replace the head fasteners because 2 of them snapped while removing the head. The other fasteners are rusty and pitted. Is there any change in torque specs with studs vs bolts? I'd like to raise the compression just a little and don't want to worry about blowing head gaskets. I enjoy this website a lot. Alot of good info and food for thought, Thanks, 40 plyguy

I am using stock head bolts with no problems. I have an Edmunds head that had to be cut over .050" to clean it up, and the top of the block is cut .020". Still not to 9:1 yet! It's difficult to get a lot of compression in these engines. I don't ever remember there being any real problem with head gaskets on these engines so I am not worried. Besides, if you ever have removed a head from an engine that has run a long time with studs (think street engine - not race engine), you'll go back to bolts in a hurry.
Jim

I didn't know you could cut that much from the head and the block and not affect compression more. My engine will definitely be a street engine. I'm thinking the bolts will be good enough. Just out of curiosity, does an aluminum head use the same torque specs as a cast one? Keep the info. coming. You gotta love this website! Thanks much, 40 plyguy

If you c.c. your engine, will will find out that you don't have much stock. I think (tough to remember exactly) mine was around 7.4:1 or maybe 7.8:1. The gasket is fairly thick and accounts for a bit of volume, lots of room around the valves that you can't do anything about - it all adds up. Plus I "relieved" the area between the valves and the cylinder - wouldn't do that again as I don't think there was anything to be gained. Much rather have the extra compression than bragging rights to a "ported and relieved" engine.
The aluminum head will expand a bit more than the cast iron when hot, so I left the torque around 5lb/ft short.
Jim

Vintage Power Wagons sells them with nuts for around $3.50 each.

Checked out the vintage power wagon website. Seems to be a good source for engine parts. Thanks for the heads up, 40 plyguy

Try your Caterpillar tractor store. All there bolts are grade 8 or better. Take an example or lengths with you. I've studed the mains on my 261 with cat hardware

FWIW, according to Earl Edgerton, the EDGY finned aluminum head gives you a 9:1 compression ratio on the 230, and 8.5:1 on the 218.

I traded e-mails with Earl the other day, and he is still producing the heads, for $675. $300 deposit, 12-16 weeks delivery time.

Pete