Hi guys, been lurking here for a bit. I am working on my very first 6 and I was hoping you all could offer sage advice. First let me explain what I'm doing and then I'll ask the questions.
I have a 1979 Delta 88 that is factory equipped with a Pontiac 301. The 301 engine is failing due to mechanical issues. I started to fall in love when I got a non running 1979 Chevy C10 with a straight 6 and I started working on it - the biggest draw was how easy it was to work on compared to many engines I've dealt with.
I got myself a replacement 250 for the C10, of the non-integral head type. This 250 is blue and the carb has an electronic solenoid to kick up/down the idle, so I'm guessing it's a 70's era engine.
I never heard this new 6 run, but a family member who owns a junk yard said it ran great (and I believe him).
This family member suggested that I pull the 301 and stick the 6 in (something I had actually been thinking as well). I know that in 1979 you could get a caprice with the 250, so new parts are available and it shouldn't be too hard.
I currently have a 1997 buick skylark with a quad 4 engine that I drive to work. It's been trouble...all of the electronic kind. I don't mind fuel injection, but I want my daily driver to be simple to work on and the skylark is out. I'm sure I'll sacrifice economy with the switch, but I'm willing to pay more money for fuel and not have a car payment.
So the end goal here is to get this 6 installed, not spend a ton of money, go down the road for 100,000 miles without needing a major overhaul during those 100,000 miles (like dropping the pan or pulling the head), and to retain the best economy that I can reasonably hope for.
1st question - any idea what this car will be like to drive? I really liked the torque of the 301 (I know that sounds strange). Oh yeah, the 301 was a 2 barrel engine, like 140 horse power. I do a lot of highway driving to get to work. I have no idea at this point what gears the Delta has...probably economy gears if I had to guess.
2nd question - Do I pull the head and get it reconditioned just as a matter of course? I called the machine shop today and got prices: cleaning, inspection, and valve job would be $135. Knurling and reaming guides (if needed, though he was doubtful it would be needed) was $35 bucks more (or new guides are $10 each + $4 labor). Surfacing if needed (again, he thought probably not) was $75 bucks. I bring the head in with no rockers, drop off the seals, and I get the head back all cleaned and ready to bolt on. This seems like a good price and it's easier to do now with the engine on a stand.
3rd question - should I replace the oil pump, since I have it apart? I get a good discount at the local NAPA, I can probably get it for $40 bucks or so.
4th question - should I replace the timing set? I'll inspect it, but if it doesn't look visibly worn out, should I still replace it? I'm not sure how they look when they are worn out or at the end of their useful life.
5th question - harmonic balancer is shot. The rubber is coming out and the outer ring has moved a bunch off of the inner. I think I can pull the balancer off of my 79 integral head motor and stick it on (it looks decent to my eyes). Do these have a "lifetime"? I can get a new one, but I bet that it will be made in china. I see NAPA brand, Dorman, and ATP. Are any of those going to be functionally better than the one off of my 1979?
6th question - I don't know squat about these carbs, but they look (externally) simple. It's the Rochester monojet. I'm not too concerned with it because it's easy to get off even when the motor is installed. I didn't get an air cleaner with the engine, what's a good source for them? My family member who owns the junkyard may not have any laying around. Lucky for me now that he knows I'm interested in these engines he's saving them and not crushing them. But if he can't source one, any ideas? I'd like the one with the valve for heated air - I live in Michigan.
7th question - are those Weber 32/36 conversions good for a daily driver? I don't mind tuning the carb a little, but I need to get this car drive-able quickly. Is it worth it for what I'm doing? I'm leaning towards sticking with the 1 barrel and hoarding all of the one barrels that come into the junk yard (for parts).
8th question - What's the best way to adapt the throttle cable and kickdown cable? The new engine was a manual transmission from the factory, so it has no mount for the kickdown cable. My family member also said the though the Delta 88 throttle cable would be too short. Anyone know of a place that sells made to length cables? Or a kit so I can make my own?
9th question - Do I keep the EGR? I am guessing the answer is yes, since I want to run 87 octane and keep the stock carb jetting. But if I can change things and get a boost in mileage I'd be willing to do that. We have no inspections to pass where I live.
10th question - what type of bolts would make good replacements for the intake and exhaust manifolds? The current bolts are rusty and look like the might break if I sneeze. Does anyone have a favorite, or do I just go down and buy bulk bolts at the local hardware?
11th question - would you pull all the rods and mains to check bearings? How to you check clearance on used bearings, with plastigage?
Any other thoughts worth thinking about?
I'll replace the water pump, thermostat, belts, and those types of things as a matter of course.
Thanks!
Dan
