just a six--Thanks for the info. Mr. Langdon emailed me back with this info:

John,
Yes, our heat plate will work fine on your '68 250. Use a "T" fitting for
your temp sensor and feed the coolant to the plate with the other outlet of
the "T". The coolant from the plate can be returned to the water pump by
"T" connection into the heater return hose.

This sounds like the least amount of work to me. I also don't know whether or not my head has that hole in it. I'll have to check on that.

raprap-- Thanks also. Still got alot to learn here, but since I'm only 17 I'll have alot of time to work on it. Right now I'm in Redneck south Georgia a.k.a Valdosta, GA. It's in the southeastern part of GA in Lowndes county. Yeah, I need to find some old people who can show me how all this stuff was hooked up from the factory. Man, they would have to be really old though. J/K Thanks again guys for all of your help. I think I'll be able to work this out now. Thanks again. John.

Would 3/8" aluminum fuel line be ok to use for the heat plate? PAW has a 25ft roll of it for $15.95. I was thinking that I could eventually use some High Temp paint on it if I wanted it to blend in more. Would I be able to run a shut off valve with the metal tubing without having to run rubber hose? Thanks again guys.


[This message has been edited by bigchevy66 (edited 06-23-2003).]


'68 C-10 - 250 with Edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel, Offy intake, Hedman headers and true duals, HEI, MSD 6A box, relocated gas tank
Soon to have: T-5 tranny