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Has any one lowered their 49 to 52 chevy by cutting coils? If so how much was cut to get how low?. I want to lower my 50 sedan about 3 inches. Weight is a 261 six. Thanks for any info
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Three inches by cutting your coils is a lot,about 2 turns of the spring.But,personally I wouldn't lower the car that way although I know history proves people have done it in the past.You change the rebound rate so much the Chevy can bottom very easily and damage something and the alignment can be problematic.I wouldn't worry about a 261 over a 216/235 as far as front end weight goes.I would think about buying coils already designed for what you want to do because they will have the correct number of turns and the correct stiffness for lack of a better word.
Drew Mid-Atlantic Chapter
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Thanks Drew, Do you have any suggestions as to where I could purchase the coils needed? Thanks again
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Cutting the springs isn't the right way to do this. It can result in bumpsteer, and as mentioned, a lousy ride. The right way to lower the frontend of any IFS is with dropped uprights or spindles (depending on application). Dropped uprights for the 49-54 Chevy can be bought from Fatman or Buffalo enterprises.
By the way, this should have been posted in the drivetrain section...
I.I. #3174
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you can get about 2" buy useing corvette spindels from 62or older. the rear is done with blocks and longer u bolts.
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Try www.thenightprowlers.com for the spindles as suggested. Not sure about who currently carrys the springs although the spindles are deffinitely a better way to go if you don't mind the cost.
Drew Mid-Atlantic Chapter
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On my original 1940 front end (and I think the later models are the same) we lowered the front end by grinding out the rivets that held the lower spring plate to the lower control arms. We used about a 1" spacer between the plate and lower arms and then replaced the rivets with Grade 8 hardware. It worked fine and didn't affect the ride from the spring such as you would get by cutting the spring.
Ontario Inliners 1965 Chevelle 1940 Chev 1965 Chev Pick-up 1970 MGB Roadster
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Use the uprights from a -54, theese gives you a 1/2" to 1" drop. If you really plan cutting the frontcoils, own check found approx. 1,5 turns as the most on a Chevy -50, more and it bottoms out everywhere.You need planning on speed near bumpy roads...
"if your car needs more than 2 hubcaps, it ainīt COOL"
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49-54 Chev "uprights" are one in the same. '54's will not lower a '50. There is at least one 12 Port advertiser that builds dropped spindle supports for 41-54 Chev front ends and has for years. No reports of any breaking and he adds in a bit more caster for improved directional control. There's a nationally known suspension part builder that manufactures dropped spindles out of thick wall tubing. They work well unless you actually want to drive the car. There have been reports of breaking.
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My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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Buffalo Enterprises, 1-360-652-7684
He's old school... no email, no cell phone
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Figures, he seems to have all the suspension stuff I'm gonna need on my inline equipped rides / projects.
My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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I lowered my 54 exactly 3" by cutting 1 coil off the bottom of the springs. Also put a 3" block in the rear. The car sits level and drives great with no ill effects. I drove it 6000 mi. this summer and it acctualy helped the handeling. I wouldnt go any further though by cutting coils.
Id have more 8s but I can't count that high
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I did the same on my '53 210 but only 1 1/2 coils and 5" lowering blocks on the rear. I don't recommend much more than that. Don't put any "Gravitationally Challenged" people in the back seat or your drag plate will be literally draggin!!!! I'm now lookin' towards air ride, but lookin' seams to be the key word.
Ain't to proud to be broke down.
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Gravitaionally Challenged, that's funny (I'm headed that way myself, gotta do soemthing about that).
My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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My first Chevy was a '48 Fleetline I got for $55.00 in '62. I heated the lower two coils on the front springs. that lowered it about 31/2". On the back I used blocks. I drove it for several years,many trips to Santa Cruz. Never a problem if you don't count the rod through the pan.But at least the pan was close to the road! The guy I sold it to drove it all over California. It steered fine,but I'd been driving Fords for so long and was so happy to have something where the doors stayed closed,the windows rolled up, and didn't have to be parked on a hill,maybe I overlooked the steering. I wouldn't do it that way now.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Cutted coils, are not the best! Lousy drive could be, biggest problem would be bump steer (when not altering the steeringarms too), to realy get wellknown with the pavementbumps (common). Better use dropped spindles, as said. You could drop front by using -54 spindles about 1 - 1.5", (they who not agree, take measures!) i did use it, and its about 3/4" hihger spindlecenter!
Good Luck!
"if your car needs more than 2 hubcaps, it ainīt COOL"
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If available, I would go with dropped front spindles and reversed eyes on the leaf springs with a 1-2" lowering block. I used a 3" lowering block once and you basically take all the play out of you ride. It will shake the fillings out of your mouth! I belive that Patricks or Buffalo can help you with all of you needs. If money is no object, then I'd go with a Shockwave front and 4-bar air ride in the rear. That will give you the best possible ride, and control of your ride height, and the best parked look too. I've ridden in a vehicle equipped like this for a round trip 600 mile ride and it's like riding on you living room sofa with great handling! You get what you pay for in this case.
RapRap 1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe
Last edited by chopped 40; 04/11/08 12:55 PM.
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