Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Good Intake/Exhaust Gasket? any reccomendations?

been having sealing issues, im sure part of it is just the plain headers and intake mounting that GM had.

This is for a 292 Chevy, aluminum intake and Headers.

just wondering if there is something that you guys use thats better than what usually come in the kit, that pressed steel one.

Thanks in advance.

Aaron

Hello, Aaron.

I don't have a 292 or (250, 230, etc).

But I have seen several threads on changing the inake and / or the exhaust.

Do the tie bars (the plates that go over the bolts or studs to clamp on both the intake and exhaust at the same time) sit level under the nut / bolt head (I don't know if you have studs or bolts on yours)?

I've seen that mentioned as causing a problem if it's not. I've seen both grinding (within reason) and shimming under the tie bar used as a solution for differing flange thicknesses.

Hope that helps.

Those that know more about this will likely want to know which aluminum intake (Clifford, Offy, somone elses ???) and who made the header/s also if they are tube headers or cast headers (aka 'split manifolds' or 'dumps').

Oh yeah, as this is your first post (here), do you have any pictures of what it's in??

Welcome aboard Aaron!

I'll add a few bits more. Your problem is a common one there been more than a few posts on the subject. If you haven't already the outer two post that the exhaust hangs on can be replace with studs or bolts. You can put a pair of vise grips on them and unscrew them. I'm going to assume you have the long tube headers. An option is to replace the tube headers with Stovebolts cast headers they seem to seal better from the get go. The tube headers have several problems. Even though most have 3/8 flange they seem to warp. Second the two tube headers that I have, have both had the tubes welded to the flange on the mounts to the head, so the header has to be mounted perfectly to the gasket. Depending on much bead they left there may not be enough thickness to get to get a good seal all away around. You can even out the bead and hope they got good penetration, too much and you lose the weld. Some have reported brazing around the outside of the tube. Another remedy has been to double gasket using the heat resistant RTV between the gasket. There's more coming you'll find there's lots of good opinions here. 8^]

Larry

i have replaced the outside bolts with studs. all the flanges are pretty even, i had the intake planed so its flat.
I use ultra copper sealant on the exhaust side

fel pro makes performance gaskets for these, still. they are only listed in the performance catalog.
the exhaust gasket is # 1448

intake # i am not sure. i have had luck using the 1448 and taking the stock metal intake gaskets cut from the big one you have.

p.s. nice looking ride! welcome aboard.
tom

That ride is way cool, simple, slick, awesome. It's going to be copied.

Larry

MrGasket 155 I use these on my 250. and I have never had a issue with them. Most times I coat them with the Copper RTV and i use them more then once.I even doubled them up once to find a Leak.
The Copper RTV will not burn out.

Very nice.

'25?

Its a 27... Homemade frame. Pretty simple. Lots of fun, i call it my overgrown go-kart

Thanks for the info guys.

Bet it drives like one, stab 'n steer.

Some people like the Felpro. When I first put the tube headers on years ago I tried the Felpro with blue stripe and at that time cost me $32 for the set. They lasted about 2 weeks.
The #1448 exhaust mentioned above is now about $30 and the intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1257&autoview=sku is another $16. I can't say for certain that those are the same part numbers I had used, but they were Felpro Blue-Stripe and special order by a flaps.

I got a one-piece, cheap ( $6), paper gasket (looks like asbestos) from PAW ( http://www.pawinc.com/ ) and it lasted about 12 years. I rebuilt the 292, added the alum manifold and 4 years later, it's still good. I looked, but don't see it on their web site. The part number I have is TDP-4268, but the catalog is 4 years old.
Do replace the end pins with threaded studs as LGriffin mentioned. I replaced all of the bolts with threaded studs I scrounged from other heads. It makes it a lot easier to put everything on.