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You need to have the cam specks In order to build the head(set the head up for the right springs and proper machine work is done)Why go back and have to redo the for the spring pads Or different lenght Valves So you don't end up with Coil bind.Because the springs were not set-up for the Cam(lift) You also Need to know what compression your after So that If the head needs to be milled Or not.(for what ever CC's your after) So you have to plain ahead (no pun) if your plain is to Buy a head before hand. Just more food for thought & my2cents
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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Harry's right about your low RPM limit taking speed out of the equation as a variable, but rocker deflection is related to spring load. A cam with high accel rate (in .001" per degree of rotation) needs more spring for the same RPM. A good replacement is fine with 250 lbs., but for 400 I'd use steel with a roller tip but a plain shaft. Ask the cam manufacturer about this, not the phone guy at Summit.
You might wind up with the same stuff anyway, but I always feel better knowing that nothing got past me, and helps diagnosis tuning stuff afterward.
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okay, I won't go over .525 lift, and the CR will be 8:1...
I guess I was getting ahead of my self, again...
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Another thing to add about stock type stamped steel rocker arms is that the ratio will be all different.
One might be 1.69,another 1.63,& 1.70 & so-on.
They are not exact ratios.
Non roller tip rockers will wear the guides out faster than roller tip. And our 194-292 cylinder head guides are short & tend to wear out faster than a longer guide would.
MBHD
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True - the quality replacements have closer ratios than factory. The original design (which was developed to reduce cost) was laughed at in 1954, but it turned out pretty well.
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I use the Elgin nitro rockers on my nhra stocker. They are very accurate and tough. They easily go to 7800 with shubecks and STIFF springs on a 302 chevy. They aren't much cheaper than rollers so not a good option for this application though.
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I have used Cranes gold rockers for 17 plus yrs and I never had one fail and they seen 8000 rpms more then once. BB 1.7s
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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guys, not saying I'll drop the 292, but ho!y sh!t I just got a Chrysler straight eight for free! It's all there, and I'm thinking maybe use it with the 6-71?? I don't know much about it, but I'll get some numbers and run them soon. It was in a crane and it says it's an industrial version...
What do you guys think? I haven't really started buying 292 parts yet so I can still change.
How did these motors hold up? I'm clueless on inline 8's, never worked on one, not even seen one till yesterday. Clue me in Please!!! I think this'd be awesome in my 49 pickup.
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Or a steam engine. Or 3 squirrels. Or cold fusion. Or...
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Big & heavy,no parts easily available. Can't handle that much power?
MBHD
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I have used Cranes gold rockers for 17 plus yrs and I never had one fail and they seen 8000 rpms more then once. BB 1.7s That's what I used all these years w/out any problems. Another option: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/194-230-2...=item2c573a6501
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But different; and different always justifys some additional trouble. I'd suggest thinking about how much additional trouble you're willing to invest for that different.
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I'm just trying to figure some specs on it, I'm not dumping the 292, but I think this'd be a really cool motor to build and put in something (another truck?)
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Okay, back on track with the 292, Should I still run manifold heat? Remember where I live (Interior Alaska), I'm making an aluminum water heated fuel block already...
This'll be run at temps down around -45°F on a regular basis, so It's not like So Cal guys...
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Run the water heat and put in a valve to shut it off when you're racing.
"The first rule of overkill: You can never have too much overkill." "Overkill is underrated."
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Do I even need the heated manifold? The 6-71 will generate it's share of heat...
If I do, I think my aluminum manifold will cool pretty quickly with -30 below temps all around...
P.S. I'm having trouble posting, It'll make me log off then back on once or twice before I stay on(It logs me off automatically when I hit submit) so I have to copy the message so it won't get lost...
Anyone else having this problem??
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Okay, I talked to Engle And Delta Cam Companies, and they helped me with a cam, Here's what I've got so far:
lift@1.7Ii).510"E).527" Adv.duration:i)275*E)286* Cam Lift:i).300"E)310" lobe center:111* Duration@.050:I)220"E)231"
Build Recap: multi 1bbl's, homemade Intake, lump ports, 1.94/1.60 Valves, 1:7 roller rockers (alum), Ross 8:1 Pistons, 2.13" headers, Dual 4" Exhaust, MSD BTM, Water/methanol Injection, Scat 200,000 psi rods, maybe a whiff of Nitrous on down the road, 10 pounds boost MAX, and HEI Ignition goodies...
How much do you think I'll be putting out? Rough guess??
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I think turning a big 6-71 is just going to kill making better HP than you could w/a smaller blower,but a 6-71 looks impressive! That cam is OK, & you will hear the loping,if you want a smoother idle,widen the lobe center to 114-117 range. Multi 1 barrells??? how much CFM? If all tuned & running good,400 HP to the wheels? Just a guess. MBHD
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If it helps it's a small bore blower, not a large bore...
I figured 5 rochesters off 230-292 trucks will equate to 830 cfm, Here's my CFM Math:
(292x5200)/3456x(12/14.7+1)=798 (CIDxRPM)/3456x(Boost/14.7+1)=CFM
830CFM will give me a little room at the track to turn up the boost with high octane, and there's enough carbs I could setup the last few as progressive.
400 HP would definately make me happy, And loping is fine, I don't think I've ever had a smooth Idling Rig.
Last edited by qparker; 10/06/10 12:30 PM.
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I'm now looking for a new block, I was letting some guys use my shop and while they were pulling a trailer in they failed to notice the stripped engine block on the engine stand, and first, knocked it over, then second, ran it over, needless to say, they gave me the $200 I payed for it, and said sorry multiple times, there's a huge chunk missing, and it made sorta like a spider web crack up the walls.
SO, if anyone in Alaska has a 292 block (head or no head, must have crank) I'd be willing to pay reasonably for it.
Luckily, I have not started to assemble any hipo parts on it, so I lucked out in that aspect.
UGH....
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I'm up here (Alaska) every 2 weeks or so hauling freight from CA to Alaska so if you find one in between I can arrange delivery. Sitting in Barnes and Noble in Fairbanks right now using their wifi and reading Leo Santuccis' book.
'45 Ford PU 66 Valiant wagon, leaning tower of power. 79 Chevy C10 w/250 02 PT Cruiser Convertable
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