ID of the damper hub should be an interference fit (smaller than the snout OD), so not big enough = not enough press.
That may just be bad planning - they didn't think it would move.
It might also be QC, the hole is/has:
1. taper
2. rough interior finish
3. elliptical
I'm surprised that there are not more warning labels:
"Attention: this product must be press-fit on to your crankshaft nose. Its inside diameter is correctly sized for an interference fit to your original, undamaged crankshaft nose. Never remove material from either one to make assembly easier.
Boiling water on the hub opening and ice or freon on the nose just prior to mating may help. Do not use a torch on the damper without Tempilstick etc. or the rubber/fluid will be ruined.
If the crankshaft is still in the block, the rear flange or hub must be backstopped with a heavy and incompressible object to prevent damper insertion pressure from destroying the crankshaft's thrust bearing."