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#77464 10/13/13 05:58 PM
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A short video of my new turbo and Kirby-Sissell head.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uKYVGH6yA8



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Beautiful work!
Nice video!
That pass was with the new 12 port combo?
What was the ET on that pass?
How is the fuel distribution w/the new combo? I see bungs for each cyl reading.
Need to post more videos, great job!

MBHD


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Looks like a work of art! Can't say I've ever seen a twin-carb blow through setup. Would love to know how much fun tuning that is haha.

x2 on the ET!!


69 Buick Special Deluxe. Intercooled Turbo Chevy 250 @ 15psi on a stock long block. It's kinda fast.
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This is Harry's son, and I FINALLY figured out how to post pictures. Here are a few of the build (which was very exciting to do throughout the whole process).

(Click on each link to view the pictures)

Here is another shot of the exhaust: ISO_Exhaust

The top view of the exhaust shows how little room we had: Top_Exhaust

This is the front view of the new intake and exhaust: Front_View

The new turbo/intake/exhaust being moched up: Installed

Here is the customized intercooler, one in, two out: intercooler

We had to put a bump in the hood for clearance. We copied the profile of the front headlight: hood


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Hi guys
I had my son post these pictures, now you know why I still use carbs.
I think he did a great job with his first fabrication of an intake and exhaust system. As you can see the exhaust is divided to help spool, seems to work good. And the intake is divided between 3 & 4 to cancel the overlap signal of those two cylinders. (Like IGOR) Never had an engine that ran so smooth as this one.
A/F seems good on all cyl.

The run in the video was just a short blast to see how everything was working it was way too rich so we put it on the dyno to tune the A/F got it good, a little over 900HP.

Took it back to the track hoping for a great run, half way down the track the block busted open got water on the tires, the engine would still run but no water. Building a new block now will try again next year.


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Nice & thanks for posting links for the pics.

That looks like a bigger turbo or new turbo?

Specs on your turbo & is the turbine housing divided also?

What all is done to your block?
Main cap straps, doweled main caps?

Thanks again

MBHD


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New turbo with divided housing, you know me I like big turbines. No back pressure in the exhaust manifold. Spools great.

No trouble with mains or caps just stock, after all with seven mains and only turning 6000 RPM works good.

The block just flexed and broke the outside of the casting.

Working on some ideas to fix the next weakest link.


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 Originally Posted By: Turbo-6
New turbo with divided housing, you know me I like big turbines. No back pressure in the exhaust manifold. Spools great.

No trouble with mains or caps just stock, after all with seven mains and only turning 6000 RPM works good.

The block just flexed and broke the outside of the casting.

Working on some ideas to fix the next weakest link.
\

Small turbines are for engines with poor flowing heads.. \:\)

Nice work! Which turbo are you using?


Time for a mid engine mount plate ... sounds like you pulled the block apart at/near the engine mounts..

With the correct design you should be able to have the mid engine plate float between 2 fingers coming off of the frame = when its time to turn the wick up - put a hardened 1/2" pin in to lock the plate to the frame mounts.

This will move the torque transfer point to the bell housing flange - a lot more metal there than the side of the block..


Last edited by efi-diy; 10/14/13 02:37 PM.

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Have you gotten the short block apart yet?

Did the mains move?


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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Mains look perfect no movement,they always look good.

The block broke in the rear area. not near the motor mounts.

I think the block is just too weak.

Have some ideas I am going to try.

Small turbines only good to plug up the exhaust.


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Even the Duggan blocks break and split apart with as little as 600 HP even in N/A trim, but far less than what the cast iron block can stand. So far only the billet blocks seem to withstand repeated use with HP and RPM. Just consider a cast iron block being a grenade with the pin pulled at the current power levels that are capable with today's power adders.



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 Originally Posted By: CNC-Dude #5585
Even the Duggan blocks break and split apart with as little as 600 HP even in N/A trim, but far less than what the cast iron block can stand. So far only the billet blocks seem to withstand repeated use with HP and RPM. Just consider a cast iron block being a grenade with the pin pulled at the current power levels that are capable with today's power adders.


at 900hp its 5X to 6X the factory rating... think you ran out of engineering over design...


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Yep!



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I better tell everyone to stand back the next time I let go of the trans brake button, because it will be at higher boost.

This is my "Top Fueler" make a run and take it apart.

I LOVE IT

Last edited by Turbo-6; 10/14/13 08:13 PM.

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Well, maybe it wont be that bad! Just get a couple of those old Turbo-Action transmission blankets that used to have the lead sheets in them and wrap around the engine, bystanders will be fine then. \:D



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I know they would be heavy, but is there a way to add a girdle to the block to help?


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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When the power level gets up to where they start to experience this problem, the block actually splits apart in a lengthwise fashion, between the cylinders where the block has the thinnest cross section. A girdle doesn't stiffen the block in that direction. Rob Harrison had even tried to run all thread through the block between each cylinder in a side to side pattern to try to add strength to keep his blocks from splitting but it didn't work. Once he started running a billet block that solved the problem, along with other design changes made to the block to help combat this problem.



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... time to cast a severe duty block...


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 Originally Posted By: efi-diy

at 900hp its 5X to 6X the factory rating... think you ran out of engineering over design...


Hmm. I wonder at what point I may run into this issue on the OHC Pontiac block.....

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I think your cylinder head is going to keep you from having to worry about that.



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 Originally Posted By: efi-diy
... time to cast a severe duty block...

I've already got a pattern for the 4 cylinder blocks, I guess I could add two more cylinders to it.



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These blocks are weak......I guess we didn't get the memo

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Rob Harrison was splitting then down the middle with a N/A combo, so your about 200 HP past due! Tick...tick...tick



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CNC,
With the Deppe patterns of a four cly. I would think you could make a six fairly easy, If you ever think about doing this please get in touch with me first, I'm thinking of a solid block no water to make it easy.


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Harry, would you think the standard 292 TD deck height would be what you would want or something more like the Duggan deck height. I agree, solid is a definate posibility.



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Was looking online at the place that makes "IGOR" block....

They CNC'ed a billet block out of billet 4140 steel and heat treated it ! for a cummins tractor pull engine yikes how much boost would that handle!


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LSM makes some nice stuff. I bet it can handle anything you throw at it.



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Yes, I am checking on LSM this Dec. at the PRI show. But I'm thinking lots of $$$$.

Last edited by Turbo-6; 10/16/13 11:09 AM.

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I was talking to Steve@LSM a few years ago about an unrelated matter and he mentioned that the IGOR block was about $10K-$12K back then, so im sure with the inflation costs, it would be more than that now. Plus that block design and style is proprietary, so you would have to create your own blueprint and design or pay them to do it and that would be even more money on top of that.



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CNC, mid height would be best I think.


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CNC, mid height would be best I think.


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Nice setup Harry.

Now if you can get it all hooked up at the track?

The mid height deck would allow shorter CH pistons and shorter rods. Getting over a 4" bore would be nice too.


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I think the Kirby head flows pretty good for only having a 3.875" bore.
320CFM @ .600" lift. Street port job.

MBHD


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Harry,
what was the previous best time you had ran?
Best w/Siamese port & best w/Brazillian 12 port head.

Specs on your turbo? If you don't mind?

Thanks

MBHD


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T.T.T!

MBHD


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I think its all been posted before. Could be wrong though.



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Sorry, I have not posted sooner.

Best run with siamese bump port 10.42
best run with stock head with divided ports 9.98
Best run with Brazilian divided head 9.61
Best run with Kirby- Sissell head yet to be determined

The turbo is my design and is proprietary info. right now, I have wanted to try a turbo like this for some time.


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Very nice & thanks for posting.

Do you have anymore videos of any runs?


MBHD

 Originally Posted By: Turbo-6
Sorry, I have not posted sooner.

Best run with siamese bump port 10.42
best run with stock head with divided ports 9.98
Best run with Brazilian divided head 9.61
Best run with Kirby- Sissell head yet to be determined

The turbo is my design and is proprietary info. right now, I have wanted to try a turbo like this for some time.


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Nice video,Nice setup .If you have a Turbocharger aspects need help then you can contact me, I have a friend who is Turbocharger manufacturer


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 Originally Posted By: Turbo-6
Sorry, I have not posted sooner.

Best run with siamese bump port 10.42
best run with stock head with divided ports 9.98
Best run with Brazilian divided head 9.61
Best run with Kirby- Sissell head yet to be determined

The turbo is my design and is proprietary info. right now, I have wanted to try a turbo like this for some time.

Turbo-6.
If you can recall the boost levels you were running w/the different head combos?

Thx
MBHD


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