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Especially a split exhaust/cast iron headers,and a 2 x 1 intake manifold.
Need 226 Ford flathead 6 cast iron headers.
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Check these. One says continental but I don't know. Maybe The Contential could be adapted. Kaiser, Jeep, AMC? PRICEY CONTINENTAL?
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If you have a stock intake you could donate, I can make some patterns and begin to cast some products for these engines.
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I am pretty sure I have a stock spare intake I could donate if you would give me a price break on a new one once you cast them.
Send me a PM with your name and address,but don't expect it until after Christmas.
Need 226 Ford flathead 6 cast iron headers.
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I checked that Continental/Kaiser intakes,and the measurements are off from those of a flat 6 Ford.
I do thank you for the links for that and the polished Edmunds. As it turned out I had been negotiating with the Edmunds guy for over a week now,and just bought it about a hour ago. I will probably put those polished carbs up for sale and replace them with anodized 8H Ford carbs,or maybe even buy a pair of the Carter-Weber tiny 2 brl carbs to put on it.
I feel sick over having to pass on a Nicson 2x1 intake,carbs,linkage,and air cleaners at a good price maybe 3 or 4 months ago,but I had just bought the 51 and was dumping tons of money in it to rebuild the brakes,gas supply,etc,etc,etc,and just didn't have the money.
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Yup,most parts are interchangeable if you are talking about 48 and newer 226's.
The "trick" way to get duals on a shoebox Ford with the 6 is to use the front half of an exhaust manifold from a truck,and the rear half of the car exhaust manifold.
Yeah,you do have to weld them together in the middle so you have heat for the intake if you are using a cast iron intake,but most of the aluminum aftermarket intakes don't have provisions to bolt to exhaust manifolds.
If using a after-market aluminum intake,you can just weld plates to the cut off ends,but some people say to get the most power and the best sound you need t weld the two halves back together with a plate in between them that blocks off 75 percent or so of the opening to create some back pressure. I have no idea if that is true or not. I am just repeating what I have heard.
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BTW,my newly added avatar is my 51 business coupe. Most of my stuff is flat 6,or flat 4 Mopar,with the exception of the DeSoto hemi I'm putting in my 33 Plymouth coupe.
BTW,I also have a couple of slant 6's laying around,but so far haven't bought anything interesting to put one in.
I just have a thing for inline engines. Pretty much love everything about them.
Last edited by Bender; 12/20/15 08:24 PM.
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Congratulations on the manifold. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and buy this stuff when you find it. Until the last several years most of the six cylinder equipment was pretty cheap except for things like 12 port heads which have always been pricey. I like Eddie Edmunds pieces because he made such a variety of things for engines other than Ford and Chevy.
Edmunds has you covered for heat with the hot water tube that runs through your manifold. I see it also has holes in the carb bases for the linkage rod. You can set up some nice solid carb linkage that won't be hanging by wimpy little brackets. Your Dual exhaust Ideas are the way it was done and will work well. Almquest used to make things for those who could not afford factory parts. They made both carb and exhaust flanges to weld onto stock manifolds.
PS Thanks for answering the Continental question.
Last edited by Beater of the Pack; 12/20/15 10:00 PM.
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"Almquest used to make things for those who could not afford factory parts. They made both carb and exhaust flanges to weld onto stock manifolds."
If you use an exhaust manifold from a truck,the outlet is spaced about a third of the way towards the rear of the engine,and spaced exactly the same as the stock car excaust manifold outlet is at the rear. It's even titled back at a bit of an angle.
The downside to that is you have to buy a truck manifold to use with your car manifold. The other alternative is to just weld a flanged pipe extension into your car exhaust manifold,but I don't think they sound or perform as well as the "two manifold" method. I don't think they look as good,either.
Not that the performance is all that big a deal on a daily driven street car. If I was that concerned about performance I'd just put something like a modern Mustang GT engine in it.
What I am mostly doing is trying to re-create a mid-50's 51 Ford coupe hot rod built by a working class kid that couldn't afford or be able to make engine and trans swaps. I'm even going to restore the interior and paint it a factory color. This is a keeper car for me that won't be sold until it hits my estate sale,so I'm building it to please me without any regard to what others think or resale value. Right now I am driving it every day it isn't raining,and loving the hell out of it. It looks even worse today than it does in the avatar because I am sanding it down to the bare metal a few square feet at a time,and painting it with whatever spray cans I have sitting on the shelf to preserve it. Everybody should be as happy with their car as I am with this one.
When it's raining I drive junk stuff like my new pu.
Last edited by Bender; 12/20/15 10:44 PM.
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Last edited by Beater of the Pack; 12/20/15 11:03 PM.
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Oh,yeah! There are a bunch of us over at the shoebox boards.
Is that a cast iron head he milled grooves into,or a aftermarket aluminum head he painted?
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Aftermarket aluminum. Edmunds I think. The 226 only had 5 less HP than the V8 and I think made more torque. There is a complete rolling '47-'48 chassis a few miles from here but the guy won't sell it and he has no respect of the six.
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The head is an aluminum Knudsen, originally 7.7 to 1. When I bought it, the PO had taken it off a '48 engine with head studs. He used a hammer and screwdriver. I had it milled after it was welded up. The machinist guesses it at about 8.25 to 1. FYI, Norfleet Cams in Dallas, TX can regrind your stock cam to an Isky 400 Jr. grind.
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The head is an aluminum Knudsen, originally 7.7 to 1. When I bought it, the PO had taken it off a '48 engine with head studs. He used a hammer and screwdriver. I had it milled after it was welded up. The machinist guesses it at about 8.25 to 1. FYI, Norfleet Cams in Dallas, TX can regrind your stock cam to an Isky 400 Jr. grind. I'd sure like to find one for my 51. BTW,Delta Cams in the nortwest (they have a web page) also grinds cams to any specs you give them,as well as weld up and regrind your stock cams,solid lifters,and cranks. I have put 3 of their cams in various engines I have owned,and they all worked good. The cheapest cam I could find for my 1953 Ford tractor was $300,used. This was over 10 years ago,but I bought a reground came from Delta for $39.95 plus shipping and core charge.
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I have magneto that I think is for a ford 6. The reason is it is hex key drive with a gear that ain`t even close to a chev. I know nothing about fords and can`t post a picture.It has about 20 degrees centrifugal advance and when mocked up on the bench, throws plenty of spark on all six plugs. I`d like to see it used by someone.
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IIRC,magnetos are pretty much a race car or race boat item. I have no idea if it is for a flat 6 Ford or not,but I suspect a web page devoted to old race boats would be the place to find out.
That's where Henry Ford made a "hand shake contract" with 17 year old Clay Smith that make him the youngest high performance consultant in the auto biz. Clay Smith grew up working in his father's machine shop,and was already grinding his own cams. He had one in the boat he was racing when Ford spotted him,and it was a flat 6 Ford turning over 6,000 RMS. Ford knew they weren't supposed to spin that fast and survive,so he asked Smith how he did it. That's when Smith told him about cross-drilling the crankshaft to increase oil flow. Ford signed him on on the spot using a handshake.
Seems like there were lots of Ford flat 6's in race boats,but not in cars.
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You can run a magneto on the street they just take more messing with. I ran a Harmon/Collins on a Flathead V8 for a while. Henry Ford was famous for handshake deals. The one with Harry Ferguson didn't work out well in the end. In Nevada a handshake is a binding contract.(unless you are a politician)
Where in the northwest is Delta Cams?
Last edited by Beater of the Pack; 12/21/15 10:21 PM.
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"Where in the northwest is Delta Cams?" Tacoma,Wa. http://deltacam.com/
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Thanks, I'm looking at building a '28 Chevy 4 cylinder. No one I know makes cams for them and the old ones are usually worn out. Welding one up might be a way to go and I don;t know if anyone around here does that.
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Power Engineering out in Denver does it,too I used to work there in the late 70's,and they reweld the journals,starighten them,grind to specs,and heat treat them.
I've even seen broken cranks welded back together there,as well as stroke them. The biggest I ever saw were the cams and cranks out of the salt mines in Utah. 16 feet long.
They were at one time,the largest crankshaft rebuilding facility in the world.Probably still are.
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Beater, here's another one that does great work with older vintage and unique cams. HERE!
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Neat stuff here thanks guys! Good info.
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I have magneto that I think is for a ford 6. The reason is it is hex key drive with a gear that ain`t even close to a chev. I know nothing about fords and can`t post a picture.It has about 20 degrees centrifugal advance and when mocked up on the bench, throws plenty of spark on all six plugs. I`d like to see it used by someone. The flathead Ford six distributor ('48 and later w/ side mount distributor) has a .459" diameter 14 tooth gear that is integral to the distributor shaft.
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Yes,many parts interchange.
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Beater, Among others, I'm doing a '28 Chev 4 cyl right now. Pm me, please. David
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Bender, I've some assorted NOS 226 brgs and a few copper clad head gaskets available. Possibly a few other new items. PM me. David
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