Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected snowman4839 turbo build

I'm still on it guys. I'm sorry for such a long hiatus. I've been away from my house for 5 years now and my engine has never left there. I've spent these past two years finishing up my bachelor's and master's degrees and I just got my first full time job in Chicago which I start at the end of May. I'm sorry to everyone for leaving y'all hanging. My house I'm moving to in Chicago will have a big garage that I can finally collect my engine, car, tools, etc. so that I can finally actually work on this in the weekend like I did in high school.

I've spent most of my time just doing body work getting it ready for paint and it's also awfully close to paint as well.

I really am sorry to everyone who has helped me along the way. It's still in the plan and I actually have a job to support the parts now.

Parts I have left to get are....
-Pushrods
-SPA T4 Turbo Manifold
-ARP Head Stud kit
-Still trying to decide on the turbo but maybe a https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/gtx3582r-reverse-rotation
-Probably an MSD BTM Box
-Probably gonna get a stronger Muncie 4 speed to replace my Saginaw before the install too.

Not too much left! This should be a good summer!

Masters degree! Already? Man you got with the program.

In Chicago, you will be close enough to visit.

Also just ordered a SPA T4 Turbo manifold so we'll see how that goes.

Anyone have a good recommendation on a turbo manufacturer? I looked at garret and can't find a GT3584 for under like $1800 and I can't even find compressor maps to size a turbo correct on the Precision or Turbonetics website

Yessir got em out of the way in 5 years!

Already had a trip in mind! Would finally be nice to see the elco and/or your workshop and put a face to the username haha.

Which model did you order? You know there are 2 different ones. I have one type on my site.
It has a center dump wastegate flange and slightly higher turbo flange.

I orded a center dump wastegate flange for $450 shipped. I remember the old ones had a flattened wastegate blank on the back runner. The precut WG hole in the center is much more convenient. The model number is TMC05T4

I can find a pretty decent 64mm turbonetics 60 series that performs great at 15psi which is my target for ~$800 so that looks like my top choice right now.

I'm going to try to make it home in the next couple of weeks to see where I'm at and also get some pushrods measured and ordered.

Should I need anything special in the harmonic balancer or is the stock balancer good to go?

Congrats on completing the degree's and landing a job! My car/engine program really took off about three years after I started working in my professional career. The first two years were paying down some relatively minor debt and getting my first house situated. But fun fun! Look forward to the updates!

So good to hear from you again and of your degrees and JOB! The gutsy little I'll drive it till it blows up and then build it better kid is back. We missed you.

Haha thanks! These last couple of years really started weighing more heavily along with me taking up options and futures trading as a hobby along with my part time job doing cyber work. But now I have the funds and am getting all of my parts into my one house at my job to work on it consistently.


Haha thanks beater. I missed y'all too and really felt like I had let y'all down letting it come to a stop for so long. I don't have much further to go and have made so much progress on my bodywork that it's almost ready for paint. It's getting close to being the shining star I always knew it would be!

Don't apologize to me. I haven't made any progress on my roadster and I don't have a job.

LOL, D'oh!!

Just in case anyone was wondering, here's the cam sheet for the cam that's in it

Got the SPA Turbo manifold in. Looks pretty nice.

More pics here if y'all are interested http://imgur.com/a/Kp5ki

Got the the lifters in today. Ended up having to take the cam out because they didn't want to go through the top. I also swapped on the check springs and measured out the pushrod length and got those ordered. Also going to order the original strength valve springs since I can't seem to find my old valve springs that I can swap in for break in

I noticed that the machine shop didn't put in dowels on the deck after they zero-decked it. Do y'all know where I can order those dowels from?

Got some dowels ordered. I'm crossing my fingers that they'll be easy to install

Also ordered the ARP head stud kit, some stock springs for break in, and a valve cover from tom because I'm not sure if the original valve cover will fit, it looks pretty cool, and I need to try to get it running before I move to Chicago.

I'm trying to anticipate problems so I don't have a dead week of waiting for things to ship.

Make sure Tom machines it to clear for rockers and the studs had to send mine back because of the studs he will mill around them for you

Hey everyone. I'm heading home tomorrow for final assembly. I have Tom's valve cover, the head studs, head dowels, and break in valve springs ready to go. Other than that, it should just be simple pushrod/rocker install and manifold install.

One question about the lifters. When I installed them, they were kinda tight. I had to tap them in from the bottom. But after they were in, they moved smoothly in the bore. They just tighten up at the top and bottom of the bore when they're most of the way out on either side. Is that something to worry about? I'm going try to remove them and do a more thorough clean to see if that helps but that was the only thing that concerned me.

After so many years of useage I bet there's crud in the lifter passage. It's probably fine now that you have them in there since they only move in a small area of the hole but if you have access to clean it out now I'd do it. Just don't go too nuts with it.

So I got home yesterday, took the cam out and checked the lifters. They just needed to be pushed up and down a bit but they moved fine through the bore so I'm not too concerned about that. Put the cam back in. Installed dowels in the block. Swapped the stock springs on for cam break in. Installed the ARP head studs. Put the head on. Installed the pushrods and rockers. Lashed it down. Got the valve cover on and tightened down.

ITS ALL COMING TOGETHER! The whole rotating assembly and valvetrain are good to go now! I was going to finish it up today but I noticed that the harmonic balancer I was planning on using was pretty gnarly and had cracks in the rubber so I ordered another that should be here by the weekend or beginning of next week. Then I should be able to button everything up and put in the car for break-in!

Looking good!

Buttoning everything up. Side covers, timing cover, oil pan, water pump, thermostat all in.

Interesting note. The ARP studs extend all the way into the water jacket so that the it interferes with the water pump. I had to back off one of the arp studs at the front passenger side to be able to install the water pump.

Also had to cut the offy manifold bolt holes in half because they interfered with the SPA manifold.

Anyway. Going to rebuild the carb tomorrow and try to get that and the distributer installed so I can put in the car and get it broken in so I can have it all sealed up for the move to chicago.

Looks great man. Congrats on graduating...computer science right? I'm going to UMUC taking computer science now, I gotta long way to go...lol

Thanks man! I appreciate it. It's rewarding and you got a huge job market at your disposal so keep it up.

I got the engine in the car and was going to break it in but I just had no way to put the turbo on or any exhaust so I had to wait to fabricate something to move the turbo out of the way. Just got to chicago and everything settled in. Got a mandrel bent tube coming and a couple of flanges so we'll see what I come up with.

So i know my updates are intermittent and I'm sorry for that. Life gets in the way.

A few updates. I'm ditching the up pipe from the SPA turbo manifold in favor of a reverse rotation Garrett 3528R Gen 2 turbo. With a short spacer, I can bolt it directly to the manifold and not have to worry about my welds or putting undue stress on the manifold. The reverse rotation makes the turbine housing go up instead of down where I had my clearance issues and I've done some fitment with my old GT35 turbine housing and I have plenty of room. Here it is. https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/gtx3582r-gen-ii

After I get the turbo fitted while the engine is in the car, I can take it out, paint the engine, buy a trans/clutch/driveshaft and then hopefully get this thing running.

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Something that's been bugging me for such a long time about this offenhauser intake. I have the offy 5416 4bbl intake like a lot of people on here but something that my intake does that I have never found the solution for is that the base plate only fits in such a way that my carb is rotated 90" and my throttle linkage sits over the rear runner.

Below is the only way I can get all 4 bolt in


But when I rotate it correctly like below, I can only get the two bolts shown in this picture in.


Has anyone ever dealt with this? It's incredibly frustrating and I'm about to just buy another manifold because something is up with this baseplate and they don't sell the baseplates by themselves.

so I read some summit reviews and it turns out this is actually a common issue. Turns out you can wallow out the two misaligned holes or offy has your back and you can buy one of their 90 degree adapters here https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ofy-5832

Looks like I'll be adding that to my shopping list

Snowman If you closely you will see that there is No center bolt holes to mount those plates to the Offey intake.

hmmmmm. I actually called offenhauser and they said you can use that on top of the original base plate to rotate the carb 90 degrees. Now that you mention it, I'm not sure how it would attach...

From another look at the photo It seems to mount to the carb plate Via The carb screws On top of the stock carb plate.
But anyway I sent up a PM in re-guards to your Plate.

Glad to see you're still working at it.

Yeah sorry these past couple of years have been sporadic. I've put a lot of time into the body and had my engine a couple of hours away at my parents house so it was hard to work on it. Then I had to scramble and get it assembled and in the car right before I moved to Illinois. Then Illinois winter hit and nobody wants to be outside in that!

Just ordered a 66mm Garrett Turbo https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/gtx3582r-gen-ii

Here are the two compressor maps that show various sweeps from 3000-5000 at 10, 15, and 20psi assuming 90% volumetric efficiency (VE) which may be low balling it with the porting at bigger valves (however this would only move the Lbs/min right 1-2 if I assumed 95% VE. The first vertical line is 3000 and the second vertical line is 5000rpm.

GTX3582R on my 250


I had also been looking at the slightly smaller GTX3576R which is a 58mm which has better efficiency at the lower part of the rpm range you can see below (same 3000-5000)


I'm having a bit of a dilemma as I can't tell if I can get 5000rpm out my 250 with the beefed up springs and turbo cam making the 3576 a better choice or if 5000+ is reasonable and the 3582 will hit is stride in the higher RPMs. Any thoughts? I figure it would probably be safer to have better efficiency at higher RPMS to reduce heat going into the engine at a more volatile (higher) point in the RPM sweep.

The shop said I had 24 hours to change choose if I need to pick the other so any thoughts would be helpful

That's complicated stuff. Glad I went with a blower.

oh it's not too bad. Took me an hour or two to learn to read a compressor map I just went ahead with the GTX3582R gen 2. They share the same turbine housing so it shouldn't be a huge deal to swap. I'll just have to sell the 3582 core and lose a little $$$ if I need to swap them. It's a dual ball bearing turbo that I actually did the math to find a compressor that would fit it so I can't see it being any worse than the 56mm ebay turbo I was using earlier.

I went with a 4-71 blower and 3 Roch 2 bbl carbs on my 292 mainly for the old school look.

do you have some Pics of that set-up

I second Twisted6. Any pics? Sounds awesome!

Anyone have a recommendation for a balancer? Is the stock one good for anything?

Was watching Tom's turbo 250 dyno videos from a few years back where that engine was making peak power at 5600rpm. I don't see any reason this engine couldn't hold up to those higher RPMs but I know these i6s have vibration problems in those upper RPMs and I figure a better balancer like the TCI rattler might be a good investment.

The engine is safe if the parts are quality.
IDT the factory intended the damper to operate above the original power peak, and the rubber has definitely degraded over time.

The ATI harmonic balancer is proven and has been used on numerous factory engines. I've personally seen minor horsepower increases JUST from installing this balancer and on top of everything else, it is both tunable and rebuildable! Is is also a non friction unit and doesn't rely on liquids or clutch type functions to work.

The ATI, in my opinion and the opinions of the engineers of SEVERAL O.E.M. manufacturers, is superior to other aftermarket products.