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Cheers John
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Last edited by J Gregg; 02/19/21 09:51 PM.
Cheers John
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Last edited by J Gregg; 02/20/21 02:46 AM.
Cheers John
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Last edited by J Gregg; 02/20/21 03:24 AM.
Cheers John
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Saga of a six (sometimes lady luck shines her light on you)So, I bought a twenty year old $700 donor truck to get an engine for my project. As the truck was a runner, I could test drive and evaluate the engine before buying it. The seller admitted that the rad had a leak that he addressed with Bar's Leaks. Okay, so the test drive around the block went okay, but for the steering pump being so loud that you could hardly hear anything else. The plan was to drive it home 250 miles over the Hope Princeton Hwy. As I got up to Allison mountain pass it boiled over big time. I put more water in it and limped along a few miles, but it kept overheating so I called a tow truck to take it the rest of the way home (125 miles) as I would have had another climb over Sunday Summit. When home, I found that the coolant was not circulating at all. So when dismantling the truck I took the bottom tank off the rad to discover that the core was totally plugged with Bar's Leaks. The engine also was a replacement engine from, I assume, an auto wrecker, so I have no Idea how many miles it had on it. Fast forward to last week, my engine guru friend, fellow Inliner Dick Knorr 1573, took the engine to go through it to see what it needed in anticipation of turbocharging it. I expect a relatively mild turbo job with a stock spec engine and 8 psi boost, give or take. Although Ford 300 sixes generally have a good reputation for durability, I also read on the internet that they are susceptible to cracks in the combustion chambers and piston skirts. So after the overheating, I'm expecting bad news, maybe a cracked head, needs a rebore and crank grind etc.. Well it turns out all the news is good. It's a standard bore only worn half a thou, the crank is standard and no damage, the cam and lifters good, the head did not show any cracks when checked with dye penetrant and the head has been worked on before as it has the valve guides sleeved. Looks like no machine work required, just a light hone to restore the cross hatch and it should be good. I'm a happy camper! So to cope with the turbo we're going for new Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, new timing set with aluminum cam gear, high volume oil pump, ARP rod bolts and head studs and new rod and main bearings. I'll also clean up the ports and combustion chambers to remove potential hot spots, unshroud the valves and lower the CR a bit.
Cheers John
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Cheers John
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Here's the oil supply fitting for feeding the turbos.
Cheers John
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Thanks, looks great. The Aussie manifold should have much better response time to go on boost than the long runners. Many decades ago, I described a turbo system for a Corvair 4 carburetor (140 hp) engine to a Corvair LSR owner, who warned me that high plenum and runner volume is just that much longer before pressure reaches the intake valves.
What did you intend to run for ring end gap?
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As for ring gap, I'll have to ask Dick as he put it together. Hopefully he remembers or has notes. For throttle response, I'm expecting the two small turbos to spool up quicker than a single large turbo.
Cheers John
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KB says hypereutectic + boost for street use needs as much as .008" per inch or .032" for 4" bore. This is about double the normal gap for NA cast pitons.
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I found Dick's assembly notes and the ring gaps are: Top ring - 0.022 (0.0055/in.) 2nd - 0.020 (0.005/in.) Oil - 0.028
Weisco says 0.0055/in. for street turbo application, but they want more than the top ring for the second ring. Dick's notes reference 0.0035 for the second ring, so will have to see where he got that. At running temperature I would think that the second ring will be much cooler than the top and thus the gap will be greater than the top ring during operation. Maybe need more study on this. Another inliner here has an Atlas 4.2L running a turbo for about 4 years now with no issues. His engine was brand new from GM and I don't think it has been opened up at all.
Last edited by J Gregg; 02/20/21 09:02 PM.
Cheers John
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This is really something! You must be a dedicated inliner because this was not the easy swap. Great work. I hope you can post some videos when it is running.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Aussie Speed wouldn't machine the intake for injectors, so I had to do it myself. Had to buy a 7/16 reamer... That should be a 17/32 reamer, not 7/16. Will post more as it progresses.
Cheers John
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