Inliners International Forums Thread Like Summary - 250 motor still overheating.

I'm hoping someone can tell me what the problem is here.
Last year I was having overheating problems with my Chevy 250 motor.
After getting the head checked and was told it was fine, they figured it was a cracked on the motor. I decided to purchase a crate motor. Basically another 250. Since 6 months ago I have replaced the water pump twice, the thermostat twice, I also drilled a hole on it. I checked all of my hoses which I use the stainless chrome ones. I had it timed several times. It was timed almost to like a 12, then we backed it down to about an 8. Because at 4 like the book says didn't worked either. So I decided to buy a new radiator also, still over heats. What am I missing here guys? Everything has been changed under the hood. The timing set at anything isn't doing it. So can someone please send some knowledge my way.

It looks like the top bend in the hose is above the top if the radiator & cap. That could fill with air and cause flow issues, cavitation.

I WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERY MEMBER WHO HAS TAKING THE TIME THESE PAST COUPLE OF WEEKS TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS WITH MY MOTOR.

So there you have it, "and I'll be taking her there." Inline engines are male. This one is pissed because you have mis-gendered him from the start. V- engines are female. It is just by design.

A couple of thoughts I haven't seen yet posted: 1 - check to make sure the aftermarket gauge/sensor are reasonably accurate. Remove the sensor from the engine and place in actively boiling water. Gauge should read 212� (at sea level). You can't necessarily infer too much above and below that temp, but should give a ball-park idea if you're seeing an accurate temperature reading around 212�, which is your concern.

2 - Regarding the timing. This motor likely should be using non-ported (manifold) vacuum as opposed to ported vacuum for the vacuum advance (lots of internet references on this; ask more here if more help needed). The initial timing at idle should be set with the vacuum advance disconnected (vacuum line removed and plugged). 8�BTDC is likely fine. Idle speed (and idle air/fuel mixture) needs to be correct when setting the timing. With the initial timing at idle speed set, reconnect the vacuum advance. If you check the timing at that point, you'll find the timing will have advanced - that is ok and normal (do not reset the initial timing!), and should help the motor to run cooler at idle.