Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Best 292 truck Cam?

Where is everyone? Did you leave your devices at the office?

I'm looking for the best low end torque 292 cam for my truck. The truck has 3.55 rear gears and a 700R4. Something from off idle to around 4,000 rpm. Clifford has this. It seems a bit pricey but has a lot with it.
CLIFFORD

Beater,
Checkout the cams I offer.
All my cams come with lifters.
I also have reasonable spring kits
Choices for you would be my
RV/ Langdon marine cam
HYTORK cam
They can be seen here. https://www.12bolt.com/store/c6/Camshafts.html
You will definitely spend less money and get more support.

Thanks Tom. For some reason I couldn't find your cams when I looked before posting. There is no rpm range in the description of that cam. Do you know it?

This is for the decades old 292 build that is now necessary. It is a truck engine and will have GM TBI. Possibly a turbo later so Ill need forged pistons also. The turbo will be the '81 firebird draw through setup that I have. Because of the low/mid rpm range I'm wondering about head work. I have a set of lumps and roller rockers. Are stock valves big enough? What of compression? I may nee d a different head if I add the turbo and that's not a problem. It seems most of the build info is for race or hot street engines. I'm looking for a gas Cummins.

The truck will be for hauling and towing. We live on a steep 4 mile pull the last 2 dirt. In some spots the rpm will be around 1000 or even a little less. Your thoughts please.

Stock valves will work But Stepping them up will work even better.

Hi Beater,

I have read in the past, over on HAMB, posters mention an interesting concept for what you describe your use to be. Keep the 292 cam as it came from the factory. It was originally designed to haul stuff, not haul ass and is really good at it. The intake and exhaust are restrictive and could use work.

I have a page of the stock factory specs and dyno pull and it seems to be in line with your primary requirements. If I can post it, I will.

Can we post links to other boards on this site?

Regards,
Rick

Page with spec info:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iri722cGYTWBRdCS8

Thanks for the help guys. It is easier to find high rpm info. Rick the chart is a big help.

Since the 292 was available in trucks from 1/2 ton to 2 ton with standard and auto transmissions I'm sure concessions were made on a one size fits all cam and valve train. As long as I'm building on I'd want to maximize the truck side. Sometime the low rpm cams also give better milage as well. It looks like the stock cams works hard and the bottom end but 292s are notorious gas guzzlers. A lot of that could be gearing.

Beater, as you know Ford sixes are my forte, but I can say for the 7 million 300s built the same cam specs were used for all applications, including industrial. The advance/retard was the only thing that changed slightly over the years. Wouldn't surprise me if GM did the same.
I would say for your needs a cam with the same specs as factory but with an additional .050" lift or so will work well. Mild port work will help too.

The 292 I had in the black truck ran ok - same trans and gears as you have but it was real thirsty. The TBI will certainly help with fuel dropout when your in OD at low RPM - highway cruise.
Look at your tire size and calculate your cruise rpm. Then decide time spent at cruise vs climbing the hill, move the cam choice to suit.
When you turbo it - you will need to sort out how to adjust the 700's line pressure to increase with boost - the throttle position is not good enough as the turbo torque increase is no tied to throttle angle. The vac. modulator line may need a restrictor orifice and a pressure bleed between the orifice and vac modulator. Once manifold goes positive pressure, if the line pressure gets above 220 PSI the trans won't like it for long. You'll need to work the trans pump pressure spring / vs boost. Add a trans line pressure gage into the cab 0-300 psi so you can monitor whats going on.

Thanks, That is kind of advice I'll be needing. I've gone back and re-read the old thread a couple of times trying to refresh my memory. Maybe when it's running with the TBI I won't want to go on to the turbo. Figuring out exactly where it will be running most of the time and getting the power in that range is the goal. I've bee driving this tuck fo years with a 305 that has an RV cam and a turbo 400. It did well one the highway and I never ran out of power buy it was sometimes revving higher and I was having to drive faster than I want. Pretty sure a stock 292 would go a ways to fix that.

Many years ago when we were building this place I borrowed a '46 Chevy 2 ton dump trick from a friend. It had a stock 292 in it. That old truck acted like there was no hill coming up with full loads of sand and gravel. It didn't like the highway a lot.

Beater,
I think the best setup for your torqey 292 is 1.84 valves w/ bolt in lump kit and my RV cam. Nice low rpm setup. The low duration cam will help the low compression motor work well. This cam will also work well with a lower boost turbo setup.

Thanks Tom, That's good advice. I'm torn on piston choice. Will I ever get to the turbo? If I do I'll need forged pistons and a bit lower compression. If I don't get there I'll want higher compression for max power. I agree on the 1.84 Stock exhaust? I have lumps and a tube header for now. refi-diy's comments about the TV cable on the 700R4 might help make the turbo decision. If I get it going and am happy without the turbo I'll just skip that. I'm pretty sure a healthy NA TBI 292 Would fill my trucking needs. A guy I knew used to tow his backhoe over the Sierras one.
That Cam could use stock rockers, springs and pushrods?

Beater I sent you some specks on 3 cams which I think will very good for what your after all are hyd. cams and good from idle up to 5500. The 5500 is the biggest of the 3.

Thanks Larry, those look good. I found the one I was thinking of it is from Crower. In 292 it is a special order probably because of volume. It says it is for a stock engine but I'm sure some mild head work, a bit more compression, TBI, and a header will work with it. With the planned tire size and gearing it will be turning right at 2000 rpm at 70 mph.

The cam is the first one on the page.
CROWER

Yeah because the cam has notches in it to clear the rods. I was going to send you that same link . lol

I called and ordered one. They don't sell many of these so they take one of their other 292 cams and regrind it to these specs. Maybe a shortage of blanks? I remember about the notches. He said the other mods I have planned will work with this one. It uses stock lifters, rockers, springs, and pushrods. Pushrods may need some thought depending on head and block deck cuts. It really shouldn't even need screw in studs though I think I have a set. I have a set of roller rockers too. They would take even more stress off of the system. Probably overkill.

Now for some pistons. I have a new set of 0.040 over Silvolites #1249 that are listed as 8.0 to 1. They have pins and rings. They should be fine. By the time the head and block are shaved some and the right head gasket 9.0 to 9.5 should be within reach. That's enough. I have a set of reconditioned rods and an almost new crank. Probably a bearing set kicking around somewhere.

Many years ago a

Could this be the place when a 194 head could be a good thing?

I have reread some posts here about 194 heads including the near toxic one where Toms famous dyno test were quoted extensively. There was a lot of information but I am not as convinced now as I was then. The tests were mostly made at 2000+ rpm and the 194 head was bone stock. I'm not sure what cam was used with it because I lost my test results in a computer crash.

I have several heads with a few 194s among them. I just purchased a Crower cam with a working range from idle to 3500 rpm with a red line at 45000+. In this application 70 mph will occur at 2000rpm and it will do much of it's work well below that. Would a 194 head with 1.84" intakes & 1.60" exhaust valves and lumps be a help or hinderance? The pistons are rated a 8.0 -1, The head gasket is a Fel Pro 1025 .041". No head or block decking yet. (I think)

MILEAGE COMPU-PRO / Performance
Level 1 - Enhances mileage and torque in stock engines. RPM Power Range: Idle to 3500 / Redline: 4500 plus.

Beater
Are you looking to just bump the compression a little more? IT should give you between 9.1 to 9.5-1 depending other things coming into play It could go a Little more But not a lot. You could do the same with a Flat top and Now jump to about 10-1 on compression.
But with the 1.84 it would only take Minor unshrouding of the valve.

As for the head studs You could always pin them If your going to use stock rockers. Running roller rockers it is always better to go with the studs. A Plus is you would be a step ahead if you wanted a Bigger cam.

I was just thinking that I need to put a head together anyway and sense I have both types of heads that this might be a build where a 194 could give a little bump in compression and still handle the flow. 9.1 to 9.5 would be fine in this case. Are the old thin (0.021") shim steel head gaskets good?

I keep going back to Bill Fishers recommendations on building a street 270 GMC compared to a race version. It seems that there is a point at lower rpm that smaller is better. When I built the 270 in my old pickup in 1978 I took his advice and used a small port head and frankly don't remember valve size. It has served me well and has hundreds of thousands of miles on it. It does well through the range from idle to 5500. If I made a mistake is was cam choice. I would give up some upper Rs that I don't use much for a little more grunt around 2000. Though I've never run out of power.

So this 292 is aimed at the best truck engine I can build mostly with what I already have but because I have a lot of it I can put some $$$ in it. I know the 230-292 head will work just fine but wondered if the 194 might be the best choice. Where else will I use one? I'll end up doing about the same thing to either head. Think pulling a 16' two axle trailer with my tractor on it up a pretty rough steep 2 mile rocky dirt road. I some places the rpm will be around 750- 1000,.The rest of it's easy.

I've decided to use a 250 rather than a 292 in my pickup and when I get the block back from the machine shop I'm going to order the HyTork camshaft kit from Tom's to give me low end torque and fuel mileage. In the fuel department I picked up a Holley Sniper unit and will used it on a Clifford intake.

Went out and looked at a 194 head #324435. It is very clean and everything looks good. Definitely not much room for bigger valves. How can I tell if it has been milled?

I looked at Tom's HyTork but decided on the Crower' I'm going to revive the GM TBI from years ago. Do you have everything you need for the 250?

Everything plus, even some spare everythings, even still got your 292 sitting behind the shop. I'm going for fuel mileage (only 1 gas station within 65 miles) but still have the power to tow my small trailer to swap meets if they ever get this virus under control.

Damn! I have to get some hearing aids. That's the first time I read what the problem is and actually saw it. All this time I thought it was pirates, Chinese Pirates! I though they were coming to steal all of our toilet paper. That would have more likely been Arab Pirates.

I'm hoping with the right cam, compression boost, TBI, and a good gearing choice I can help the milage. If not I'll find a Cummins.

I pulled another nice clean 194 head out of the pile. Same number.

Beater what ever you do DO not use a flat top in that 292 with the 194 Head. YOU"LL be well over 12-1. I guess I miss read something. I didn't think you were going with a 292 a dished 292 piston and the 194 will put you around 10-1 I thought for some reason you were building a LOW Deck motor. AND I looked up the cams LOL as 292 build Sorry for the Bad info as to the comepression.

BUT yes dished about 10-1 FLAT tops well Over 12-1 and do you mean 3824435 ?? if so IF that head has not been milled it is a 61cc head YEAR is a 62. A casting 3788415 would be 72.80cc 62-67
and casting # 3864883,385056 60.32cc. 3788380 62.03cc

That would have more likely been Arab Pirates.

Not acquainted with sanitary practices in the 3rd world?

I had Crower make me a custom billet solid roller cam. It was an obscene amount of money.

Yes, #3824435 I found two of them. The pistons I have are Silvolite # 1429+.040" Advertised as 8.0 to 1 CR. PISTONS I have both the Fel Pro # 1025 gasket at .041" and a steel him one at .025". I also have a set of PES lumps I got from Leelites many years ago. With Larry's prediction of maybe around 10 to 1 compression ti might be a puller.

I've been playing with numbers this afternoon. In a post on another site Tom said a stock 194 head would flow about 170 CFM. Ranging from 100% to 80% VE a 292 flows: 85-68 CFM at 1000 rpm
170-136 CFM at 2000rpm
255-204 CFM at 3000rpm
Depending on VE a stock head would become restrictive between 2 &3 thousand rpm. My cam does it's work from idle to 3500. With the small valves and ports the velocity would be high at low rpm. Lumps would raise the head flow some. It may or may not need 1.84 intakes & 1.60 exhaust valves and un-shrouding of them making the chamber bigger. I'm thinking a stock head with lumps might be a great low rpm torque head. Highway rpm would be right at 2000.

"That would have more likely been Arab Pirates.

Not acquainted with sanitary practices in the 3rd world?"


It's about the old tradition of eating with you right hand and wiping with your left. Theives were punished by having their right hand cut off. Therefore one hand does it all and no one would ever eat with you again.
I think Im getting cabin fever. I hope that's not a symptom of Chinese Pirate Virus.

This one was only $225.

Are there flow numbers out there for a 194 head with stock valves and lumps?
Trying to glean what I can from different places as to increase percentages that might be gained by adding lumps. I've read around 10% to 15%. That could move the 194 to a possible 187 to 196 cfm without any other work. Tom got about 24% on an open chamber head with 1.84" intakes, lumps, and porting. This is at .50" lift.

I guess it wasn't as much as I thought. Billet roller cam $425.42,lifters $362.78, rocker arms $344.55. Billet crank $4250, Billet rods $1483.76. These are jobber prices.

That's a lot! It may all be decent prices, but that's a lot!

Then it all gets covered up with a $1400 oil pan.

According to Tom's site the stock open port head flows 168.5 cam at .500 lift/
With 1.84 intakes and the boss removed flow is 195.6 cam.
With lumps installed 215.6 cam.

On another site Tom said the stock 194 head would flow about 170 cfm. This makes sense to me because at the beginning the 1.74 valves are not as shrouded as they become with larger valves, It also makes sense that there would be some gain by installing lumps in the 194 head with stock valves and that if that gain covers the rpm range where the engine will be used a cheap high compression low rpm would result.

Hey Tom, PM sent on a head

Beater
The stock head/ 1.72 valve in a 194 will flow (with the Boss in the head) about 177. With out the boss about 189 and with MY tear drop designed lumps the head will flow right around 204cfm to 216cfm depending on the lift. And port work done.
And these numbers are based off when I was doing the design & Flow bench work & testing on the first design lump kits.

That is impressive. That would do me fine and not be restrictive till around 3000 rpm. This engine shouldn't go there or above often.

The stock valves with the lump will get No performance gain. I have tested this on flow bench and Dyno.
You must upsize the valves to see a gain.

My cams are 225 to start and come with lifters.

Thanks Tom. So how do people get a bump from just removing the boss? I have read in some places a 10-15 hp gain from just removing the boss.

Once that restriction is removed the next restriction is the stock valve? Then the lump and porting finish it off?

I didn't know I was buying that gasket from you. I never even looked at the seller.

So Tom what your saying there is NO cfm gain with the stock Valve and the Lump ?? & no hp gain??