Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Which header?

I have a 70 Chevy truck with a 250 in it, and standard trans. I got a Clifford manifold and 390 Holley to put on it.

So, I'm looking at my options as to which header to run. The main thing is clearance for the clutch linkage and cost. I know of the real nice cast headers, but they cost more than I really want to spend. I see these cheaper steel tube headers for sale at most vendors. Which brand ones will allow clutch linkage clearance?

I know that the manifold and headers flanges will likely be different thicknesses. I'm prepared to build spacers for the bolts to take care of that issue.

Thanks,
Kevin

Hello.

I certainly feel you on the cast iron headers. $300 by the time you add in the flange kit and shipping! Wow!

Hedman makes a header for the 63-79 Chevy trucks that will clear the center frame crossmember and allow room for the clutch linkage to the block.

The tubes are looooooooooooong (36" to be exact). It should help with low end torque. If you do decide to go this route I recommend ceramic coating. Inside and out - outside only is a waste of money. Check some of your local or online shops for pricing. It'll set you back about the same amount you'll pay for the headers (around $140) but they'll last you a many many years if you take care of them. If you don't have them coated you'll rust out five or six additional sets of headers over the duration the ceramic coating will last. More money up front but worth it in the long run.

I have a set on a 292 now that are not ceramic coated. I coated them with 1200 black stove paint and they'll last longer than traditional high temp paint. But they're gonna rust out too. I already have a backup set ordered and these will be ceramic coated.

Let me know if you want to see pictures.

-magic mike-

Ditto to what magic mike said. I have those Hedman headers installed on my 250 in my '68 c-10. They work really well. I didn't have mine coated, and within a week or two they had a coating of rust on them. Pay the extra money for the coating, it'll save you $ in the long haul. BTW, they do clear the clutch linkage. I have a 3 speed on the tree. Hope this helps. John.

Hey guys,
If I'm reading you right, You won't cough up $300. for the cast Stovebolt headers, but you'll spend $140 twice and jet coat them?
It sounds like your priorities are a bit confused.

I'm usually on a tight budget like everyone else but my Dad's old rule; Do it once, do it right the first time! Those cast headers are truer and the mounting plate is heavier than any tube type headers you can find.

RapRap
1940 Chevy Coupe

RapRap,
You echoed my thoughts. I would spend the extra $20. for the cast iron in a heart beat - and I am che...er frugal as they come.
Jim R

Actually not, raprap. It's a matter of performance and choice. You don't have to get the ceramic coating. There are much less expensive coatings but they won't last long. The minimum I would recommend with any tube header is to bead blast the cheap factory paint and repaint with three coats of true high temp stove paint. Real high temp paint (1000 degree plus) will have to be fired up to fully cure.

Another thing is that with the these particular long tube headers you'll need a shorter joining pipe from the collectors to the mufflers. That'll save a little money on overall exhaust system costs. Also low end torque will be better with the long tubes versus the cast Stovebolts.

On the money side of the issue if you buy new from Summit, yes, you will spend close to $300 once you've done the ceramic coating. But if you do your homework and shop around some you can find a good enough deal that you won't spend $300. I paid $75 including shipping for a new set just delivered to my door (I made a deal with a seller who listed them on Ebay but was unable to sell). Add in $130 a local shop will charge for inside out ceramic coating and I'm out around 200 bucks.

I also made a deal with someone who posted on the classifieds here for a set of clifford shorty headers for the 194-292 series straight six. Paid 100 bucks shipping included, and the paint is still like new. Looks like they may have 2-3 hours on them at most. If I decided to do full ceramic coating I'd still get by under 250.

If you're patient you can get the performance and fit you want for less. People just need to know they don't have to buy Stovebolts to get dual exhaust header performance. There are other good choices.

-magic mike-

I have the Cliffords. Got them in '78 when it was still "Clifford Research" at a local performance shop. Paid $93.50 then. That build on a 292 lasted til '02. The headers will go back on with my new build up. Jack Clifford's still lists the same part # but now asks ~$280 for them.
They clear the '68 C/10's Z/bar bracket nicely. Not too many dings to make them fit. Why so long on a daily driver? 1) I live in Arizona. 2) We've been having a drought for the last 14 years.
I was thinking of a JetCoat set-up on my old headers, but everybody says get a new pair and metallic/ceramic coat them. New headers are out of my budget.

Hi Every one,
A point raised in a conversation about coated headers recently was that the manufacturing process to make the headers, leaves lubrication residue that is required in the process. This residue needs to be burned off/out of the headers for the coatings to work effectively. It was recommended running the headers for about 500 miles, then send off for the coating process. Anybody have any insight into this? Or is this another Automotive "urban" legend?

Most of the coatings companies will give you a lifetime guarantee on new metal. If they have been run, no lifetime. That says a lot to me about the possibility of an "urban legend".