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#14596 03/09/07 05:43 AM
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Hello All,

When I go and try to find a water pump for my 56 235, it always ends up with a long shaft. The pump I am replacing now had a long shaft that had the hub pressed down and then cut. Why do I have to do this? The Napa listing shows 2 pumps for the 235, the long shaft and the pre 54? unit.

What gives.

Thanks

Luis

#14597 03/09/07 12:18 PM
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What's the motor in? A long shaft will be too long (hit the radiator) on pre-55(?) cars and may not work with your pulley. I know the Filling Station sells a shortened pump for about $100 or an adaptor to go with an earlier short pump, or you can press the shaft yourself with an arbor press.


'59 Chevy BelAir (v8)
'50 Chevy Fleetline DeLuxe ('55 235)
'48 Chevy Fleetmaster coupe (late 261)
Chicago
#14598 03/09/07 12:19 PM
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or you can use the long pump and move the radiator forward about an inch like we did with my fiance's 51 Chevy


'59 Chevy BelAir (v8)
'50 Chevy Fleetline DeLuxe ('55 235)
'48 Chevy Fleetmaster coupe (late 261)
Chicago
#14599 03/09/07 07:11 PM
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Dear Luis;

The "short shaft" (later) water pump allows the 55-62 engines to fit 1954 & older vehicles W/O re-locating the radiator etc.

Patrick's has them also.

Goodk luck. \:\)


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#14600 03/10/07 05:59 AM
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My engine, as far as I now is a 58 235, hydraulic lifters, added by me after speaking with Charlie Baker. It is in a 56 pickup.

Is it because the pickup radiator is closer to the block?

Many years ago I bought a Modine 3 core Ford radiator for it. Could it be that the oversized radiator is the problem? I think I had the problem before the new rad.

Thanks for the thoughts.

Luis

#14601 03/10/07 07:44 AM
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L;

Can't say W/O seeing it.

Normally, the 56 (car/truck) uses the standard (long shaft) pump & the seller might have had that engine in an 'early' vehicle.

If there's room, go with the stock pump/pulley.

Good luck. \:\)


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#14602 03/10/07 10:09 PM
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I had the same experience with a 56 engine in a 54 truck. The PO had wedged the radiator forward and it flopped and rattled. So I bought a short shaft pump conversion. Pricey, but I thought it would cure my clearance issues and let me bolt the radiator securely. It did, but it did nothing to center the fan higher on the radiator. There were also fan clearance issues with the harmonic balancer and I was restricted to using a small stock fan.

In the end, I purchased a water pump adaptor plate ($40.00) which mounts on the front of the 55-62 engine and uses the early style water pump (available at NAPA #58-126@$51.69). This centered the fan on the radiator, gave me the additional clearance so I can run a later model 15" flex-fan, and uses a pump that is available locally.

Installation of the adaptor plate does require drilling and tapping 2-3/8" holes in the block. I've got some pics in my album of the install. This is the second engine I've modified with the adaptor plate.

The installation instructions with the plate are clearcut, the procedure is foolproof, and if you want to solve all your cooling issues I feel it is the way to go. I hope this helps.

Dave


http://community.webshots.com/user/Fla54Chevy3100 "What this generation tolerates, the next will embrace"
#14603 03/14/07 03:21 AM
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Dave,
Nice pictures, I see you are using a 2 groove harmonic balancer. Where was it obtained? I am using a 1 groove pulley with an idler to get around all my pullies.

Walt,
I am using a 2 groove water pump pulley with a 3/4 inch spacer to get the flex fan to clear the balancer. I am using a radiator from a Ford truck, 3 core and large (never ever an over heat problem). It has been this way for a long time. I realize that these items are not factory, but I had this problem before I put together this combo.

Thanks

Luis

#14604 03/14/07 09:28 AM
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Gentlemen;

For the benifit of future readers; In 'late' 1954 (55 model yr) when the change took place (water pump) there were 3 kinds. This is the reason for confusion on this issue.

The 6 cylinder trucks had Two types & V-8 version was the Third.

In the 'parts books' this is listed as the "first edition" (54) and "second eition" 1955.

Therefore; 1955 (second edition) is the same through 1962 on the 235/261 engines.

\:\)


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#14605 03/14/07 10:09 AM
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235Daily Driver...thanks for the compliment! I got my 2 groove balancer from Steve at Buffalo Enterprises. It's a bit pricey but worth it! He recommends getting it rebalanced and using a sleeve on the seal surface. However, it's the best way to get that illusive "2nd groove".

I am running the adaptor plate water pump (the correct fix) and am running only ONE belt (alt)over the pump pulley. The A/C compressor runs off the front groove and is mounted low while the alt. is on the passenger's side.

I'm going to use the conventional alt. position on the driver's side to run in my fresh rebuild, then swap over at 500 miles when I add the a/c.
Hope this helps.

Dave


http://community.webshots.com/user/Fla54Chevy3100 "What this generation tolerates, the next will embrace"
#14606 03/14/07 07:47 PM
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here is another option for the 2 groove balancer. might even save some $$

Email: brian@bhjinc.com

it is a balancer company called BHJ. email me if you want any details


Tom
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#14607 03/15/07 03:15 AM
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Walt,

I forgot to mention that I have the rad mounted like the 6 cyl in the pics. This is the first time I have noticed that the V8 is different.

Luis

#14608 03/16/07 12:53 AM
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Walt,

You are right. I probably could use the long water pump. I have a 2 groove water pump pulley that I use now. I may change this when I find the 2 groove balancer I want. I think there is enough room for the long water pump, but I would need to go back to the original pulley. I have always wanted electric cooling fans and I bought 2 of them to use, but they ended up on my sons 74 Duster.

I am OK with the combo the way I have it now, I just wanted to find out why I had to modify my water pump every time.

This is what you get when you modify from stock. I LIKE IT!

Thanks

Luis

#14609 03/16/07 10:22 AM
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FYI...if you use the adaptor plate with the correct "early" water pump and a 2 groove balancer you don't have to run BOTH belts over the water pump. In fact, this was one of my reasons for going with this setup. I could see no sense in putting that much more additional pressure on the pump shaft/bearing. In addition, by mounting my a/c compressor low on the driver's side and my alternator higher on the pass. side, I still have the option of mounting a Power steering pump and running it off the a/c compressor 2nd groove, while maintaining adequate clearance to run a 15" fan. I've got some pics in my "Tips and Tricks, 235 build" album that show the simplicity of the setup and once I "run in" my new engine, I'll bolt on my already fitted brackets, and finish the full conversion.

I'm a bit surprised that someone hasn't come out with a "kit" that would make keeping the "inline" 6 cylinder engines more attractive to project builders. A 2 groove balancer, adaptor plate, and port and starboard mount brackets and a fan might keep more INLINES from being replaced by the SBC V8 conversion. Just my $.02.

Dave


http://community.webshots.com/user/Fla54Chevy3100 "What this generation tolerates, the next will embrace"

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