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Joined: Jan 2007
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I have yet another question about installing a cam shaft timing gear on a 250. My engine is installed in a custom built 31 ford hot rod. So, unless I pull the motor out, which I am trying to avoid at all costs, I have to install the gear with the cam shaft in the motor because the gear will not clear the suicide perch for my front end. I have tried many of the methods I found here with no luck. At best I got it a quarter of the way on. So my question is, could I have a machine shop drill and tap the cam shaft so that I could use a bolt and large washer to press the gear on and then remove the bolt and washer. Has anyone else done this or have any other ideas? I have tried heating the gear @ 350 in the oven for 45 minutes. I even added in using electronic component cooler on the end of the shaft until it was frosted over to aid in installation. Any help will be appreciated.

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i have heated the gear hotter than 350 before. i believe the number is closer to 500 degrees. i also keep a propane torch close by to keep the heat up. the torch is the kind you use to sweat copper pipes. if the gear does not slide on all the way with some persuasion with a block of wood and a hammer add more heat with the torch quickly and send it home with the hammer again. at worst you will ruin the timing gear. but it may save you from pulling the motor. besure to check the cam front to rear movement before reassembly. tom


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While you are tring to drive a Gear on While it is in the Motor you run a VERY LARGE RISK OF Knocking out the freez plug in the back of the Block THEN YOU WILL BE Pulling the Motor Or Tranny OUT for sure. And if you Press the gear on without Heating it. IT WILL come OFF soon sometime down the Road IF not shortly after firing it up.So Notto be Rude or nasty about But Pull the Motor and DO IT the RIGHT WAY. you'll be happier in the long run.
Because if that Gear walks off the end YOU will end up trashing the CAM, Lifters, Dist gear?? and Maybe EVEN THE BEARings. So go a head take a short cut if you really want to. But this is/was a fair warning!!!!


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Thanks for the help. Had a friend suggest using a torch to heat the gear further after the oven just as tlowe did so I will try that, after that I guess I am pulling the motor. Thanks for the help.

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Listen to Larry!!!

DO NOT try to install the gear with the cam in the engine. Pull the cam & take it, with your new gear, to a Machine Shop & $20 later your done.

You can install the new crank gear (a must) yourself with it in the engine.

Please don't be; "penny wise-pound foolish" here.

Good luck. \:\)


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If you have a press you can do the gear yourself.
Just be sure to heat before installing it. If you
don't heat You willend up shaving the inside
of the gear and then you will have a Lose fitting
Gear.It can be heated in a House hold over. It can also be heated in a Pan of boiling water/or oil. You can use a Old Temp (mech.) water gauge.
The Over will be much better and you will get a Much Higher tempature 450 degrees will work.Put the gear on a cookies sheet ALL being cold put it
in the over turn it on to 450 Once at 450 let it saty for about 5-10mins Then Install it on the cam.
It will never be a Drop fit But it will press on very easy With out shaving out the center of the gear. IF you can chil the cam Fine it not thats ok.


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Chopped,
I will use your post to put the final on my cam gear situation. Instead of boring you on the details that lead up to this point..read my previous post on cam gear install from a couple of weeks ago (6T4Ducce). OK, my cam was wiped, 8-10 lobes had serious damage and subsequently 8 lifters were mushroomed. They had to be punched down through the block for removal. Pieces of the original cam were found in the oil pan almost big enough to reveal a part number on them! Not really but there was large chuncks in the pan. The exact cause has not been positively determined but most feel that the primary reason was due to improper breakin of the original cam and secondary cause was improper cam gear install. Remember this engine had approx 1500-2000 miles since rebuid. The new cam was ground by Crane and the aluminum gear was pressed on prior to installation into the block using the cold cam / hot gear method and a hydraulic press was used. Pre-breakin lube was accomplished as per Crane Cam install instructions and the engine was primed with oil. RPM breakin proceedure as per Crane Cam install was done and a subsequent oil change was done prior to road test. It now idles better than ever..imagine that...and 17 manhours later and I am back on the road. Good luck with your install and do not cut corners...they can be expensive.

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The Comp. Cam gear timing mark is advanced one tooth from the stock gear.................................
.......................... I am going to have to think about that a while as Comp. Cams builds some advance into their cams any how. Would love to put a degree wheel on it and see whats going on as to a stock gear.... One tooth is a bunch...SCRAP


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Well, thanks to all for talking some sense into me. I will try to raise the front of the motor first. If it won't clear I will just pull the motor. I shouldn't be afraid of doing it. Its not like I have anything in the way of pulling it out. I already have the radiator and grill shell out. Does anyone know if equipment rental places rent cherry pickers?


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Just an update. I used a bottle jack under and wood under the front of the engine and was able to jack it up more than enough to clear all of the suspension components with the timing gear. Thanks to Twisted6 for talking me of the shortcut ledge and walt1940 for giving me a fresh and obvious idea that I didn't think of myself in the midst of all my frustration. You guys here are a pricless wealth of information and I would have made some costly mistakes in the past if not for this forum.

Ian

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Oh My God! What a cool old school hotrod!

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Chopped, now THAT is my kind of car. S


'38 Stude/292
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Thanks for the comments. Once I am back up and running I'll take some video and post a link to it here. Just before my cam/lifter issues I was in the midst of tunning the three sidedraft carbs I just put on. Looking forward to seeing how much more kick she has. Thanks again to all who have helped.

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Holy bat cave batman do I ever like that look and I am an old coot to boot! I have a 31 that began life as a two door sedan and is now a Phaeton that I call a Phakeington. I think it needs an 250 and automatic instead of that old 4 banger. Love it, Leroy


Home of the "Texas Beast" Cummins Turbo Diesel powered 1949 Chevrolet One Ton Pick-up and numerous other trucks, cars & mosikles. Inliners # 1564

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