Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Reverse Rotation (noitatoR esreveR)

I have an opportunity to pick up a flathead Chrysler that was used in a wooden power boat from the late 40's. It is marked "reverse rotation" and was used with another engine that went the normal direction. Does anybody know what was changed to make it go backwards and how hard it would be to return it to "normal"? I'm thinking it's the cam and distributor... is there more? Do the oil returns run up-hill?
Thanks!

Oil passages and returns should be the same, left-hand or right-hand rotation. Any offset in the wrist pins within the piston and/or in connecting rod small or big end will be reversed, too. Another thing to check outside of the rotation question -- was this engine used primarily in fresh water or salt? If it was used in salt water and was raw water cooled, i.e. no heat exchanger, there may be considerable corrosion in the water jackets.

Thanks Scott
The oil return part was meant as a joke but I had not thought about possible wrist pin off set or the sea water as coolant. It turns out that these particular motors did use that cooling method so thanks a lot for the timely warning. I have enough problems with out barnacles!

Leif

Greetings . . .

Leif I think it is that simple. Swap the cam and replace the distributor gear so that the thrust is right, otherwise the engine is trying to push the dizzy off the cam. Not sure about the oil pump - that maybe as simple as turning the impeller over on the shaft - but then again I've never been inside a mopar pump. Swapping a stock automotive pump would do the trick otherwise. I really don't think that the lower end is any different. It's wasn't on a set of v-thingies I saw getting prepped to go into a boat.

Oh and you will need a starter that turns in the right direction - but a rebuild shop should be able to fix that.

Now the salt is another issue.

regards,
stock49

Yes, that salt thing is a real bear. Back in the mid 70's, when my father-in-law was rebuilding his boat (home-built circa 1947 36-foot knock-off of an Elco) he ended up scrapping a beautiful matched pair of big flathead six Scripps (top of the line marine engines back in the 40's) due to the horrible corrosion in the water passages. And this boat spent most of it's life cruising the Hudson from just south of the GW Bridge up to the Tappan Zee and out into western LI Sound -- brackish water at worst -- not nearly as bad as the really salty water in the lower bay and outside the Narrows! I saw several pairs of Chrysler hemis (331's I suppose, or maybe 392's, with two two's, getting scrapped for the same reason. What a d**ned shame.) Pop repowered with Chrysler Marine 360's while most of the others ended up going the marinized SBC route. The boat really lost something with that change; there's not a sweeter sound on the water than an old wooden boat with two big flathead sixes hollering through a pair of 3-inch copper wet exhausts!

Thanks to all for thinking of things (salt!) that I did not. I passed on this one.
Leif

Gentlemen;

Some time in the late 50s or early 60s (here in Calif) the boat gang was selling 'flush attachments' that connected a garden hose to the water pump and washed the salts out, after ocean cruises.

I'm told that's "standard equipment" from the Mfg. today.

Most boats here are used for water sports at the Colorado River or one or more of our man made lakes etc.

Have fun-be safe.

Oh yes, I remember my dad religiously rinsing his out-board out after being in the bay for a few hours. These big Chrysler lumps were in a Mathews cabin cruiser built in the late '40's. It was in such a state that all other parts went directly to the land fill so it's reasonable to think they weren't too cherry.

Most boats (inboards or stern drive anyway) nowadays use a heat exchanger and a sealed antifreeze system in the block. That requires two water pumps.

Its still a good idea to flush after a salt water trip, though, especially if your anodes are in questionable shape.

Leif:The only thing I would do is change the cam,dist,and the distribution tube. The tube is the weak link in the cooling system. Many people have change the water pump,thermostat,and raditator because they did'nt know about the TUBE. Norm