Inliners International Forums General Discussion Drive Train clutch linkage & bellhousing

Have a 53 chevy Bel-Air with 235 powerglide. Want to put S-10 5 speed in it. Have a 55 chevy rear-end for it. Want to know what is the best way to go with clutch linkage? Use a stock set-up or is there a better way with a retrofit set-up? Also I have many different years and models of bellhousing to use. Does any buddy know whick works the best? Tank you!

The simplest would be the stock setup if you can find all the parts. Joe

Two things make it hard to put the T5 in a 1949-54 pass. First is the bellhousing. On 49-54 pass the clutch fork exits the bellhousing at a angle down (the only ones that do)and has the wrong bolt pattern for the T5. To have the right bolt pattern for the T5 you need a 1948-62 truck or a 1955-62 pass bellhousing. All of these are drilled on the front for the stock bellhousing mounts but the clutch fork comes straight out. You can open up the hole and relocate the pivot ball to set the fork at the correct angle.
Second is the transmission crossmember. It will need to be moved back, which means reworking the e-brake linkage also. I have done this to a 1950 so I know it can be done.

using a hydraulic throwout bearing setup would be another option.

It may also be possible to redrill the 49-54 car bellhousing for the newer tranny, but that may require welding extra iron to the housing, for something to bolt to, but not completely sure on this.

I converted my 54 210 Chevy to stick from powerglide. I had a 58 pickup for a donner. Used the flywheel, P-plate, bellhousing, fork, etc. The trans side of the bell is right for the later trans mounting. I used a Saginaw 4-speed trans. cause when I did this I didn't know about the T-5. I put the clutch linkage thru the floor, mostly using parts from the pickup. I wouldn't reccomend this, I wouldn't do it again. I would use a hydraulic master and slave and do it thru the floor or hang swing pedals and move the brake M/C to the firewall. I was thinking that the p/g car frame would be similar enough to a clutch car to just add the parts and pieces for the linkage and off you go, like it is on 55 and later.But it's not, take a real close look down there to see if the componants are gonna work. I had to trim on the frame and also the inner fender well to get it to work and fit right. I used the stock rear crossmember with the Saginaw and just needed to make a flat adapter to move the bolt location. Something like an inch or 1-1/2, either forward or rearward, I don't remember which way. Used a rear and driveshaft from a 76 Nova automatic. Has a 2.93:1 gear, works well with the 3.50 first Saginaw

Anybody doing this kind of work on the 49-54 chevs remember that the second crossmember in the stick and automatic frames are in two different places. The automatic crossmember is located about 2 5/8 inches rearward and leaves more room for a newer trans such as a Saginaw. Holes are already drilled in the frames to mount either crossmember but you will have to have the proper crossmember and the diagonal arms going to the frame as they are different to fit in the different locations. I am putting a Saginaw in a 51 stick frame and will switch to a powerglide crossmember found in a yard in AZ. I am keeping the pedals under the floor and will have to modify my 55 truck bellhousing for the clutch fork. I think that is easier than properly mounting a M/C cyl on the firewall as I have done in the past. I will also be mounting a double
brake mastercyl close to the stock position so everything looks stock from the outside. Anyone switching from a powerglide to a standard stick in these cars remember to change the crossmember.