Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance My Holley Webber has no power?

I just put a holley webber 5200 on a '59 Chevy 235
and It has no power at all. I can't go over about 25 mph. I thought this carb was supposed to be bigger and allow me to go fast but it seems like the opposite.

I made sure both venturies are opening and that it's getting plenty of gas but it just seems like it isn't getting enough air or something.

Anybody know why this thing has less power than my old Rochester 1bbl? Otherwise I just spent a ton of time and money to go slow!!!!

rocket,
When you say that you can go only 25 mph is that total over all or is that just in first gear? I problem that I did have in the bigging when I put mine on was I also had no performance. What i relaized is even though I thought it was when i floored the petel that is was only opening about 1/4 of the second bararrel. I got the linkage all worked out and made sure that it opened both barrels ALL the way when I mashed the pedal. Is the advance working?
Joseph

First of all: You shoud get better performance and better milage with this carb. This is a prooven fact, lot`s of guys did it and you wil do it to.

Now that you got som peace of mind let`s see:

1. check your linkage.
2. make sure all the different holes and tubes for vacuum asessories are closed. You got one for the vacuum advance (that you hopefully use) plus there are 3 others that you don`t need on a 235. Close them with a rubber cap.

It sounds like air is leaking in to your carb what messes up the metering and everything.

For a quick test idle the car and spray some start spray or break cleaner around the carb (make sure it gets not in the airfilter) if the rpm goes up you got a vacuum leak.

If this shows no results check your choke.
What kind of choke you got?

Frank

to answer your questions I have no power through all the gears (3 speed w/ od). I checked for vacuum leaks so i think i'm ok there.

As for the choke I have a manual choke set up....so i'm pretty sure the choke was wide open.
Would an electric choke be better?

The linkage is driving me crazy!

First of all no matter how much i tighten the arms of the linkage it will slip when I hit the accelerator. Also I haven't been able to get it to open to full throttle....i'd say about 5/8 throttle is all i have able to get. I can weld the linkage in place I guess but then i won't be able to adjust it at all. Also I don't want to have to drive around at full throttle all the time to get any power...with the fentons it's pretty darn loud.

I got so frustrated with this that I put my 1bbl back on, but I don't want to admit defeat just yet
so I'll give it another shot. Any advice on the linkage would be greatly appreciated.

Rocket;

Here is a link to a pic of how I did the linkage for my Holley/Weber on my 261 engine. I have good power through all the gears and I run my truck on the interstate all the time at 65 mph with no trouble. Hope that it helps.

http://www.chevygmcofkc.org/Gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&stype=1&thumb=1&si=261_eng_5

57Mike

mike,
thanks, it looks like you set it up so that the throttle rod pulls down is that correct?
did you have to weld anything in place on the linkage to keep it from slipping?
i had to grind my 2bbl to 1bbl adapter quite a bit for the manifold screws to clear...did you find the same thing?
are you heating the manifold?

thanks

I ground on the adaptor also, and then got smart and read a thread that said to put in shorter studs or use bolts like tractors use.Modify the linkage so the pedal pushes on the connector above the pivot. This will change the rotation. When you figure out the dimensions, it is simpler to make a new pivot piece.

I guess shorter studs would have been the way to go. I guess i like to make things hard on myself.

could you elaborate on this a little. What exactly do you mean by the connector and the pivot? Do you mean so that the throttle rod pulls down on the linkage as aposed to pushin up?

thanks

u could always just go with a accelerater cable and eliminate the rod, which has always been a Pain to modify...all thats necessary is grabbing another pedal of a different similar vehicle that used a cable type accelerator linkage and drill I think it was 3 holes, and make a small easy custom plate to hold the cable in place...geez...that seems like a bad explanation...i'm gonna find something better.

here we go...
http://www.kastang.net/cablethrottle.html

There is a piece called the bellcrank that is bolted to the motor. The accelerator linkage moves one end of it. The other end goes to the carb.If these connections are on opposite sides of the pivot point,one goes forward when the other goes back. To make them both move forward at the same time,both have to attack on the same side of the pivot point. The differance in the distance from the pivot is the differance in the ratio of motion(distance) for each.Think about it and make a cardboard template and keep trying.I have a newer motor and had a lot of trouble with emissions "stuff' in the way.