Inliners International Forums General Discussion Body & Paint Engine Paint

Going to paint a ford 300 inline-6 blue. Need to know how to make it last and now flake off after engine gets some miles on it. Just don't engine to look like crap after I have put that much time into it. If anyone knows what kinda paint and how to prep it.....let me know. thanks

Use VHT paint(Very High Temperature) or one of the other brands like it. It's made especially for engines and exhaust systems, and should be available at any good automotive paint store. Degrease everything, and use a good primer first, and some guys say it helps if you pre-heat it with heat lamps right before painting.

I am no pro painter or anything (fact is I dislike painting) but I have a lot of painting failures to draw on and I have found that the pre-heat lessens the moisture. Paint dries from the inside out and moisture causes a lot of problems. I have also found that one cannot clean the area to be painted too much! Too little, but not too much. For the Record, I am a totally comitted POR15 fan and use it whenever and whereever I can. POR15 also makes engine paints and their flyer is free. All of their stuff I have used works. It ain't cheap, though. Ray

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I am no pro painter or anything (fact is I dislike painting) but I have a lot of painting failures to draw on and I have found that the pre-heat lessens the moisture. Paint dries from the inside out and moisture causes a lot of problems. I have also found that one cannot clean the area to be painted too much! Too little, but not too much. For the Record, I am a totally comitted POR15 fan and use it whenever and whereever I can. POR15 also makes engine paints and their flyer is free. All of their stuff I have used works. It ain't cheap, though. Ray[/B][/QUOTE]

The good stuff is never cheap, but well worth not having to do it again. BTW, where can I get POR15? I need it for my 49 Dodge.

Try http://www.por15.com/

I tried POR 15 on the underside of the car last week. Amazing how nice a finish you get for a brush coat. Now if I could just get it to wear off my arms and legs.

Por 15 isn't availble just anywhere in my area. I get mine from a resto shop locally. It is made in Morristown New Jersey and I see ads in the hot rod mags all the time. Try for a 1-800 number for POR 15 inc in NJ. Read the directions that come with it. Ray

Ray
where are you we sell por 15 allof the stuff as we are now a dealer for them. If i can be of help let me know.Email me. hope this will help . }[oooooo]

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NovaMan/Twisted6

Hey Guys and Gals,
I've used POR 15 quite a lot and be sure to buy cheap latex gloves and your hands won't be POR-Black&Chevy Blue for 2 weeks!
The finish is bullet-proof and cleans up nicely. If your spraying, follow the directions for a 5-1 dilute. It goes on fast and you don't use much. Warning! use a mask and WELL ventilated area. (preferably a spray booth)

It's probably not too good for you, but I noticed that brake clean will take POR-15 paint off your skin. I'm sure that the stuff is a wicked carcinogenic, but the paint probably is too.

Pete

I own a truck painting shop and have to say everyone is right in using POR, I'd add one thing. Use Sikkens CR primer first, the stuff will stick to anything! Remember to keep millage down, use a good disposable respirator and gloves. Paint on skin is direct injection, much worse then breathing the stuff.

Hope this helps,
Ronnie Cox

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---Get Inline!---

I know this is an old thread, but what is happening 5 years later with engine paint? Is POR still the ticket? Primer underneath? What are the results after 5 years? Recommendations anyone?

Primer is used in the Auto Body industry to fill scratches prior to painting or as a 'bonding agent' for bare sheet metal.

Cast iron engine blocks/heads are poros/rough and don't require piming generally. Simply clean with laquer thinner so all oil/grease is removed.

Just 'follow instructions' on the can.

I kave used POR-15 frequently as a body man. Be EXTREMELY cautious when spraying. POR-15 is as isocyanate, similar to superglue. Without a proper resirator you are effectively sucking in superglue! Disposable mask are not good for spraying. I always use a brush or roller because of this. Use the following link to learn more on the safety facts.

http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.I/id.5/.f?sc=12&category=682&fromsla=T

THAT'S RIGHT!!

A particle mask (disposable) only filters dust, NOT chemicals.

BTW: Use a respirator when sanding "two stage" paint off Jap cars too. The second stage (clear) when it turns to sanding dust is toxic (even the 'open air').

Thanks "moondog", good tip.

One additional item: Someone made the statement that cleaning is important. In fact, surface prep is the single most important part of a successful paint job. Soap and water and solvent cleaning go a long way (all properly dried), but I add an application of a phosphatizing agent (Ospho, Metal Clean, etc) for two reasons. First, the crystalline phosphate coating left by the treatment is an excellent adhesion promoter. And second, if this acidic water based coating does not wet the metal surface in spots, you still have a film of oil or grease on the surface that will prevent proper adhesion. Just don't be sloppy since these solutions are acidic and will etch metal surfaces. I learned a trick to check for proper surface cleanliness when I was making critical epoxy joints. If water won't wet the surface easily, the glue won't stick well. A squeeze bottle of water works on an engine block as well provided you dry it well after the test. Buy a hair dryer or hot air paint stripper. But let the metal cool to near room temperature before painting to prevent the solvent from flashing too rapidly. And do not paint when the humidity is up (above about 60-70%)since an adsorbed layer of moisture will form on the clean metal surface and this too will hurt paint adhesion. Drying the metal and cooling it during a "dry" day is better than painting it hot to prevent the adsorption of excessive moisture in the air.