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OP
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Does anybody have a source for these?
I did NOT break the tank(s)!
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,332
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What kind do you want?
John M....
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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John, thaks for the reply; My problem was the engine I bought had what seems to be 427 rod bolts in it. This took some time to figure out. They have an off-set head that hits the cam flats between the lobes. The cam in the engine had grooves ground in the flats. I replaced the cam and didn't want to grind similar grooves in the new cam.
After a lot of head-scratching, I've decided to grind a flat on the bolt instead of grinding the cam. I've found out there are at least 2 types of 235 bolt head design; one with a 'pent-roof' and the other looks like it has 'wings' on the cam side. I'm grinding the heads to look like the 'pent-roofs' and chacking the clearance of each one (.060).
The engine is stock stroke and rods, .060 over aluminum JAHNS pop-up pistons (no, I don't know the compression ratio). The engine will not be run hard when installed (famous last words!!!).
If you have a set of 12 (of either design) you'd like part with, I'd be glad to buy them.
I did NOT break the tank(s)!
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Ducky, Check your email cocerning Rod Bolts I have.
Drew
Mid-Atlantic Chapter
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Joined: Sep 2002
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With slight modification I was able to use "351 Cleaveland" rod bolts from ARP in my 261. The modification involved grinding one side of the rod bolt head flat (1/16") using a bench grinder. Email me if you want more details.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Thanks to all for the replies (here and by e-mail); I've decided to modify the bolts I have. It's not that hard, the finished product looks good, and I don't think there is any reduction in strength from stock. Only 2 more to go...... 
I did NOT break the tank(s)!
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