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#35936 09/30/02 07:48 AM
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G'day. I have a bit of an odd peice of equitment. I have an aluminium triple carb manifold for a 250 apparantly off an old barge motor. It is cast as one piece with inlet and exhaust. It is water cooled an i was wondering if it would have to run the water on a street motor, and if the motor would flow enough water to keep it cool. Also the bolts for the carb run 'north-south' which appears it would make the linkages for 3 single barrels difficult to opporate. so i was wondering if 3 small 2 barrels would be too much carb for this motor. It would be going in 56 DeSoto Delivery Sedan with an 1961 Australian built Chrysler Royal 250ci side-valve motor in it.

#35937 10/08/02 04:31 PM
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Typically, the water jacket on an intake manifold is used to heat the manifold. They run a lot better that way in cold weather, and prior to the engine reaching normal operating temperature. I'd recommend hooking it up. My '49 Dodge ran very poorly when cold, and took a very long warm-up period before it would run well until I connected the water jacket to the heater hose outputs on my cylinder head.
Tuning multiple carbs can very tricky, why add the complexity of dual carbs into the mix? Since you're working with a completely unknown setup, you will have to figure everything out for yourself as it is.

#35938 10/09/02 11:27 AM
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Hi Carlo nice to meet you. Ok, i was under the impression that the water was there to take some of the heat away from the exaust due to it being cast as one peice. But I'm only new to this, so please bear with me.

I was hoping that i could set up the carbs like the true tri-power systems from the 60's, with only the middle carb with the vacume advance and the two other carbs with no idle circuits. So this way it would idle with manners on one carb and give a bit more go when driving. Currently I have a single barrel stromberg on it of on old holden and the way it is positioned on the stock manifold is diffenrt to the triple manifold. If I could send you some photos of the manifold could pick your brain some more?

#35939 10/09/02 04:46 PM
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You mean a progressive set up where one carb works at low throttle & the other carbs come in at approx 60% throttle. I can send you a picture of an old article & I'd be interested in pictures of manifold.

#35940 10/09/02 05:02 PM
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Hi, please do either send me a picture carlbest@excite.com or post one here.
The Ball and Ball carbs on my dual setup have a vacuum line connected only to the front carb. Both carbs have idle circuits though, and both carbs also have accelerator pumps and chokes.
I don't see any reason why you couldn't configure that triple setup the way you describe if you can find some of the old carbs that were used in the tri-power setups. As for orientation of the linkages, that sounds like a fun excersize in geometry and metal fabrication.

Sure would make life easy for me if I didn't have to worry about getting the idle mixture the same on both of them!

#35941 10/10/02 05:33 PM
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Senny,

Interesting manifold combination you have there. It might be usable in a car, but marine engines use manifold cooling because they often reside below decks, with no radiator and raw water open cooling systems. They may also use high capacity gear-driven water pumps to cool the manifolds. Not sure what kind of problems all this could mean with a closed system and standard water pump in a car, but it's an interesting idea.

#35942 10/14/02 01:32 PM
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Sorry guys

i'm having trouble with my email with the photos. but i will keep trying

Jack, from what i recall it did come of a motor with a gear driven water pump. I was hoping that it would be cool enough to run thru the radiator as its made from aluminum as not to get vapour locks in carbs. This is all I'm trying to avoid. I live in Australia and where I live it rarely goes below 4-5C, so cold weather starting is not really an issue. On the stock motor the exhuast touches the inlet manifold to transfer some heat but the inlet manifold in not ususally cooled. And i'm guessing that the guys that run water into there manifold have a seperate manifold and exhuast so there wouldn't be a huge amonut of heat transfer between the two. Could it work without using the water at all??

Senny


[This message has been edited by Senny (edited 10-14-2002).]

#35943 10/16/02 06:51 AM
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Hi Senny, got your email thanks, bare with me & I'll email you soon. Jack is pretty much right regarding the manifold cooling.I've had a number of marinised motors & the water jacket is for cooling the exhaust. Boats motors because they are under decks don't have radiaters(no air flow), so cold water(salt or fresh)is pumped through the motor & straight out again constantly. Water jackets("heat exchangers")are fitted to the exhaust as it is the hottest external part of a motor, so keep that cool & your a fair way to keeping your engine cooler. Next time your down at port(wharf) check out the boats (not outboards) & you'll see a small water fountain somewhere while they're running, thats basically the engine coolant pumping out.This brings me to another point, probably like me it never gets cold enough to worry about intake cooling, however exhaust cooling is always a benefit as it helps thermal efficiency(don't panic). Most engine power is converted to & lost through heat & the exhaust system is the biggest culprit. You can get exhaust "wraps" now. So after all that, hook up the water to your manifold but make sure you use corrosion inhibiter in you radiater & check the manifold for corrosion especially if it was used in salt water.
Catch up with you soon.(My brain hurts now)

#35944 10/19/02 10:59 AM
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Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going on holidays for two weeks with the old girl. About 1500km round trip so it should be fun (pray for me guys), so if i can't get back on the net i will have to continue this discussing when i get back. Carlos, i email you the pictures and info but it bounced back.

#35945 11/04/02 02:10 AM
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Hi Guys

Finally home, just. The holiday was good. But the old girl didn't enjoy it so much. On the way up there she blew a head gasket at a place called Cann River. It was about 6pm on a Sunday night, but i was only about an hour from my destination. Up until that point she used 50lts of petrol for 450ks. So when i got up there i ripped the head off and cleaned up the chambers with the dremil, got a new head gasket sent up form Melbourne, and wacked it back on. Then on the way home again i was just out on Cann River the motor died. I pulled over to the side of the road and had a look around and a wire was smoking from the regulator cut off switch. The dirt roads must of loosened it up. So i stuffed around an pulled out the ignition and replaced the wire. Went to start it up again and the wire fired again. So i was 400ks from home and it was a 30k walk to the next town so i hot wired the just to get it home and swore that if it broke down again on the way home i would sell it(but i knew i was lying).
I also passed a 56 DeSoto ute on the way home, and i think we both had looks of 'what the' on our faces as we passed each other.
So now i will have another summer job of rewiring her as i think the cloth covered wires are well past there day. If anyone knows of a good rewiring kit, or info for these things drop us a line.

Senny

#35946 11/06/02 07:19 AM
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Sounds like a fun trip but to bad you had to nurse the old girl home.

Chrysler made some interesting manifolds for the marine engines, the water cooled exhaust manifolds are pretty common with these.
Here is a link to some photos of a marine Slant Six. Notice how the water cooled the exhaust but heated the intake on this set-up. http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/marine-sl6/leftside-marine.jpg www.slantsix.org
DD


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