Inliners International Forums General Discussion MOPAR Cam spec's help

Ok mopar flathead fans, I'm hoping there's someone out there who knows a bit about cam spec's for the 230 flathead than I do.

Here's my setup:

1950 Plymouth 218 block bored .030" over,
230 crank, rods, flywheel,
Stock pistons .030" over,
Edgy finned aluminum head, 9:1 compression with stock pistons,
Stock valves (stainless exhaust) with heavier springs,
Edmunds water heated dual intake with pair of Holley 5200 progressive 2 barrel carbs,
Split factory exhaust manifold.

I want this engine to be hopped-up a bit, but don't want it to be too radical as I'm going to drive it daily. So, I had my engine shop send out my cam to their favorite grinder for a regrind that they called "3/4" and here's the spec's they gave me for the grind:

366 lift
226 duration from .050"
112 deg lobe seperation

My question is, did they do the right thing?

I don't know how these numbers translate into power range, idle, economy, etc.

I was told that this was an old Isky pattern, called the Max 1. But have since been told that the Max 1 was a flathead ford grind, and that the stock chrysler flathead cam has 250 dur @ .375" lift. Something doesn't seem to add up here, so I'm wondering what you-all think. And what you think would be the ideal cam grind for my application.

Any input greatly appreciated. Thanks, Pete

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Del could just be the man to ans. this question. Del are you out there????.......Just returned from Dallas where I had two cams re-ground but they were mild, say RV type. Good luck on your application............

Hi Pete, how come you didn't just send that cam to Edgarton in the first place?
Now that you're where you are, you might want to give him a call and ask his opinion of that grind. I'm at work, so I can't look it up now, but I presume my factory shop manual lists the valve timing specs for the 230 inch Dodge motor.
I'll have to drop by your web site, I presume you've added some updates of your progress?

Carlo-

I know, spank-spank for not just sending the cam to Edgy first. I had my engine shop do it for me out of convenience, they did the valve job and valve train assembly for me while they had the block for the rebore, and they are 1 1/2 hours away from me.

I've talked to Earl since, and the info in my original post here was from him, saying that something doesn't seem right because what they said they did to my cam isn't better that it was to start with. So I'm hoping to get some good feedback on what is the best grind for a hopped-up driver.

Have a look at my site, http://home.rmci.net/blueskies/plymouth.html I've posted photos of my tranny/overdrive rebuild and my paint job. I'm putting the engine together now, and will post progress photos soon. It's getting cold, so progress may slow a bit. Its supposed to be 32f as a HIGH on friday with snow. Here comes winter.....

Pete

I did some checking in the Isky catalog and the Max. #1 for the flathead Ford has an advertised duration of 249 deg's and .364 lift. The .226 @ .050 sounds suspect for a cam of only 250 deg's advertised duration ( I'd say more on the range of 200/210 @ .050 would be more realistic ). You can usually subtract at least 40 from the advertised because of the clearance ramps on the lobes. In your post on the other site, dialing/degreeing in the cam was discussed. You may be able to use the offset cam keys available for later Mopar V8's to degree the cam. Moving a tooth on the timing gear is way out of the range you would want to move the cam. To advance the cam you want to rotate it clockwise ( move the cam gear counterclockwise in realtion to the cam ).

Regards, Del

[This message has been edited by DEL (edited 10-10-2002).]

Well, I guess I was wrong about the duration @ .050. I was looking on the Red's Headers website ( okay so I'm also a flathead Ford junkie ) where they sell several old grinds and the 248 deg Schneider has 220 deg @ .050. I guess the duration @ .050 can be a little wilder on a flathead, due to the poor breathing characteristics. That much would definitely start to affect the idle quality in a small ohv V-8.