Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Relocating a 235 remote filter

How/where do you relocate a canister-type oil filter when you run a dual intake/split exhaust on a 235? Any pictures? This is on a 59 Chevy BelAir daily driver.

I know it would be better to convert to a full flow spin on filter, but I can't afford to completely rebuild the engine and that's what the tech tips strongly suggest you do when you drill the block.

Thanks,
joe

The Offy 2x1 has provisions for keeping the canister on the intake.

Otherwise, mount it anywhere you want to, but closer to the ports on the block the better. Ideally, you want to keep the lines as short as possible.

great, thanks!

Make sure if you mount it to anything other than the engine that you use soft lines. If you use copper or steel tubing it will crack from the difference in movemant of the engine and the body or chassis.

Dear Hellfish;

That type of filter only filters about 1/6th of the oil in the engine. This makes it "next to worthless" and more of a liability than a asset.

It's okay as 'orginal equipment', but when moved you asking for trouble.

Just plug the oil line holes & forget it.

Later you may find a 261" with 'full flow' ports & then your "all set".

Good luck, John M., #3370.

Can you just adapt a spin on relocating kit like Mr. Gasket without going full flow. I just put a new motor in and don't want to pull it out yet and go drilling on it.

Yes, you can. That's all I use, actually. Just bush it down for the smaller lines. You can't use the larger lines with the bypass 235 as you will loose your oil pressure.

Another possibility is to have bosses welded onto the intake, if that's the style of mounting you prefer.

I knew the original cannister filter didn't filter much, but I figured it was better than nothing, especially since this is a daily driver. Would a spin-on filter be better? How can I adapt one? Is there a kit?

I got my new Offy intake in the mail last night and there is a place to bolt the cannister to it, but I'm not sure how. Does anyone have pictures of that set up?

If you have the filter canister and the intake, then you should be able to figure it out. If the canister flanges won't bolt up to the intake, then make an adapter plate.

As for the spin-on stuff, for reference go to www.jegs.com and look at 771-1793 and 771-1213. If you are going to use the spin-on setup with a full flow 261 (big lines), then buying a "kit" that includes the lines might be the way to go. You don't need the big lines for the bypass 235, though.

ok, so the spin on type like you referenced at Jegs bolts to the block somehow(how?) and then the lines that used to go to the bypass now go to the spin on? how is that different than the bypass? Better filter element? So, either of the v8 mounts at Jegs will work? BTW, this is a 235, not a 261.

Sorry for all the questions, but adapting things to motors is kind of new for me.

Thanks,
Joe

Questions are what we're here for, don't take what I say the wrong way, I'm just trying to help you help yourself.

Those spin-on brackets can be mounted to anything you want. Make a plate to bolt on to the intake, then bolt the adapter to the plate, for example. Use aluminum or stainless steel if appearances are important.

The filtration probably doesn't differ much between to two types, it's just easier/cheaper/cleaner to use a spin on. Plus you could get a dress up cover for it later, if you wanted to.

Yes, the lines are run just like on the canister. Note there is an "in" and an "out"

The main difference between the two mounts I referenced is that one has the lines coming in at the top only, and the other gives you the option of coming in fron either side. Which one to use depends on who you plan on installing it, and what kind of interferences you might have with other parts and how you want to run the lines.

Yes, I know you're working on the 235 right now, but you also have the later 261 engine, so I was trying to kill two birds with one stone, so to speak.

gotcha. Now I understand! Thanks for the advice.

It just dawned on me that I know which is in and which is outon the filter, but not on the block! One fitting goes into a oil pressure sensor, then into the rubber hose. I'm guessing that's the line going towards the filter.

I don't have my canister filter mounted on my 235 yet,but 2 factory pics I saw show the canister mounted on the high side of the intake manifold of a car with 2 u-bolts and one showing it mounted using two pieces of flat iron that were attached to the manifold also by u-bolts but also drilled much lower on each piece to mount the canister about half way up/down the side of the block thus putting the ports closer to the canister.Possibly the logic is less distance to pump oil into the canister and/or
less chance for gravity to drain as much oil down from the canister and back into the block after the engine sits off for awhile in an attempt to get oil pressure more quickly on start up ?? Any thoughts?

On the factory bypass filter,the oil does not drain out of the filter when the engine is shut off.Open one up and look inside and you will see why.If one does,it is because you have the lines hooked up backwords. Ford Escorts with diesel engines have two filters from the factory.One is a remote bypass spin on type filter.I used one on my 50 Chevy beer truck.It had a 1959 235 engine in it.I bolted the Escort one on the unused left side motor mount holes and ran some very short lines on it.Looked like it was made for it.
EvilDr235

I have only seen them clamped to the intake. This plate thingy sounds like something homemade. More than one way to do it.

Best way to do it would be to mount it on the frame rail straight accross from the ports on the block and a little lower, but the exhaust is usually going to keep you from doing this. Perhaps mounting it inside the left front wheel well and run the lines through the inner fender well could work. Considering where the factory put them, I don't think you could really do any worse.

Use the larger SBC filter if you do go with a spin-on. The bigger the filter, the less pressure drop you will have and therefore the more oil that will get filtered. Even in a full flow setup, most of the oil ends up being bypassed anyway.

Dear Hellfish;

All of these gentlemen are correct.

However: Why bother? 'By-pass' (filters) are junk, they always have been. This is l930(s) technolgy.

It is NOT: "better than nothing", as an oil line can break/leak and then; "all is lost".

Save your time/money.

JM. #3370

Hellfish, the Tech page can probably help a bit.The instructions for the Full Flow conversion ID the hole(s).
http://www.inliners.org/tech/fullflow2.html

I still think it's a good idea to have a filter, even if it's not full flow.
It may be only 1/6 of the oil but it's not filtering the same 1/6 all the time.
I like the spin-on idea, buy the filters on sale and change regularly.
Not sure how often is good in this case; once a year or 2000 miles?

I went back and checked my illustrations on the lower location of the oil canister on 235's and realized that's what Chevy did on their exported right hand drive cars. I'm guessing since the steering box and shifter arms weren't in the way they opted for the lower location reducing the oil pumping distance.Maybe our right hand drive friends can verify this. By the way the illustrations are in the Chevy assembly manual not the shop manual.

here's the only photo I could find of one mounted on a 2x1 intake. The stock intake is no problem. My cannister mounts aren't quite the same and the attaching place on the Offy are narrower. I'll figure something out temporarily or just go with the spin on.

GREAT PICTURE - looks just lik my '49 engine compartment (minus the oil filter)

While we're talking about 235 oil systems, where do you grt oil pressure for the guage? I don't see one on my 235 block (not yet installed)

There should be a "T" fitting at the rear port, one leg goes to the filter, one to the gage. If it doesn't have one, Check with the hardware/auto parts stores. Weatherhead makes the brass fittings.

it has the T fitting, I just wasn't sure which line goes to the IN on the filter and which goes to the OUT. I was assuming the T fitting line goes to the IN

in looking at the tech paper, how do you locate exactly where hole "B" is to be drilled in the block?

Straight Up 235,Log onto www.stovebolt.com. The same full flow process is illustrated with pics
on that site. Maybe they will help.