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#37406 11/21/07 04:44 PM
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I need some advice, all of the drawn out plans and projects have fallen though. The 52 Windsor (family issues), 48 Kiaser (can't get a hold on the owner), 48 Dodge FA (everything is a loss but the engine). So here's the question. I can get the 237 out of the FA and get it done and wait for a project, but how should a go about it? I'd like to make good power and spin it pretty hard. Should I happen to find a car to put it in someday at least that much will be done. I thought of making it a 251, but I don't want to give up a good rod ratio and rpm capacity for stroke. Anyway, I just thought I'd ask for some opinions on what to do.

thanks

You know when I came back from Iraq in 05 my wife asked me what I wanted to do when I got out and I said " finally get a project started." Then I moved and started a new career. \:D


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#37407 11/21/07 06:43 PM
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Do the engine, keep it at 237 if you want to spin it hard, look for an alloy head, see if you can gas-flow the block...

You can spend plenty of time making up nice manifolds and headers, polishing the internals etc. Best get some nice light forged pistons made when you establish what piston shape works best for flow and reduce the pin size (thicker bush in the rod, preferably a steel reducer then a regular bush of smaller size).

Keep down the reciprocating weight and look for stress raisers in the crank.

Get a spare.

If you really want a nice project, there's a pair of Chrysler Royal AP2s for sale in Victoria (Australia) for not much money. A rebuilder which I gather isn't too bad and a spares car. You could have the only one in the US if you bought them!

#37408 11/23/07 08:34 PM
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While we're waiting for further responses, I'll mention that the Chrysler Royals involved have been sold. However, I know where there are some others that you could choose from.

Good value, I'd say, particularly for their uniqueness anywhere but in Australia. I don't know if they went to New Zealand even.

They built no more than 15,000 of them over five or six years with three separate models, the AP1, AP2 and AP3. Most of the body is pure 1954 Plymouth, and the chassis, but the front and rear panels are spruced up to the 'Forward Look' era, fins, more overhang, sharp angles in the Exner style.

And there'd be an overdrive gearbox in there so you don't have to run too many revs with that 237.

#37409 11/24/07 11:25 AM
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Ray, I can find no references for a 237 MOPAR engine in my US Manuals. How did they come up with 237 inches?

Those sound like great buys but, at today's shipping charges, the cost must be astronomical to the states.


Lord, let me live long enough to do all the projects I have planned!
#37410 11/24/07 08:27 PM
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the 237 was a dodge engine and was acually 236.? inches, I rounded up. it has the same bore as the 251/265 but the shortest stroke of all the flatheads. 4.25 I think, thus the rpm potential.
do you really think I'll need forged pistons to rev over 5000?


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#37411 11/24/07 11:06 PM
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I don't know for a certainty what shipping costs are, however I know what people are paying for shipping from the US to Australia... about $AU3200, which is about $US2900.

When the basic car comes pretty cheap, it makes it fairly attractive, I would think, as a proposition to get something so unique.

As for the forged pistons, they are so much lighter and stronger that I think they're worthwhile as a reliability feature. You'll be able to get them made without spending too much... custom Ross pistons for Ben's 318 Poly were quoted at $650 the set. I don't think that's outrageous if it allows you to spin it harder and safer.

#37412 11/25/07 12:30 AM
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no 650 is a deal for safety's sake....
I was thinking of running another oil line for the cam lobes...their splash lubed from the crank right? or does it come down from the lifters....I should get a diagram... it's 30 degrees here and I don't feel like pulling the engine untill it warms up some..
how complete are these cars you speak of? because it's gonna have to look like a really good deal to miss money (my wife)...I'd still have to ship it from port to Nebraska....that's another $1000 at least.....that would have to be a drop in the motor and fix the brakes job...or I'm outa cash in a hurry...


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#37413 11/25/07 07:12 AM
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Complete. At least one that I'm thinking of is absolutely complete, including a 245 engine. It needs work, but could be made ready for not much effort or cash.

This is it:



But make some enquiries there, shipping might be less expensive to take stuff from here to there.

And Leo Dickson might be less expensive to take it to Nebraska.

#37414 11/25/07 06:14 PM
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Shipping is actually more from Oz to the US then back the other way...container ocean freight is abit higher, as are port charges (there is a US$600 charge just for when they arrive here at the LA/Long Beach port)

It's not alot more, but abit.. I personally get AU$3500 to go from LA to Melbourne and US$3500 to go the other way..so just 10% - 15% (depending on the dollar) difference in cost..

I just sent another 5 containers to Oz (do about 20ish a year) and probably will be doing another one back this direction when I head over as normal for Feb/March..

#37415 11/25/07 06:42 PM
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As for lubricating the cam, you might look at running a kind of trough under it, so there's a constant tray full of oil the lobes are running through.

#37416 11/26/07 04:22 AM
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I like the idea of a trough, I'll groove the bearings that should keep them happy. Should I have the cam hardened? I would think so...
I don't suppose anybody has an idea of the tolorances I should set up at.....it should cruse the road around 2200 - 2500 and hold together for as many long 4500+ pulls as possible...
with a custom piston what would work better cusom alloy head or a shaved and reworked stocker?


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#37417 11/26/07 04:32 AM
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I forgot to ask earlier...how much overbore can I get away with....


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#37418 11/26/07 06:21 AM
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So far we haven't checked any of these blocks with a sonic tester. But that's what you'd have to do... find out how thick it is and see how much you can safely gouge out of it.

#37419 11/26/07 07:23 AM
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I was afraid of that answer....the hard way...oh well, why break my streak of hard ways. I suppose I could cheat away from the core shift (if any) with a good check.
Finally, I think I've got a car (truck actually) to go with. Now don't laugh....or do, but I've got a "spare" 84 B300 slant six auto van sitting around and I think that with some time and more time I could conbine the FA cab and clip to the van frame.....too crazy? I think if I chop the top and channel the cab in I could get it pretty low without altering the suspension any....maybe replace the auto with a T5.. can a T5 handle the power and the GWR of the truck?


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#37420 11/29/07 12:31 AM
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well, I got out to the truck to day and took a good solid look....I'm just afraid that the body is just too far gone....I suppose I do have a new plan....but I'll keep it a secret...(if you thought the last one was crazy!)


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