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#38288 11/08/05 12:23 AM
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I was reading the previouse thread that got closed and I don't think anyone answered your bolt question. If you look at the bolt in the picture I would guess that you ran out of threads and the shank wedged into the hole and split off the side of the casting. The end of the shank has the gold tone coating burnished off. Before you try to mount your stand again make sure that the bolt is not bottoming out at the end of the threads. You may need to add some washers or use a shorter shank bolt.

Also a word about your suspension lowering. A 2 and 4 spring kit with 60 or 65 series tires will drop you 3.5 in front and 5.5 in the rear over stock springs and tire size. A 4 and 6 drop using spindles and low profile tires will look cool but will not like speed bumps. If you are going to drop over 2" in the front use spindles or spindles and lower springs. If you are going to drop over 4" in the rear you will need to also use shock relocaters to restore the correct shock angle or the ride will suffer. Depending if you are still going to use your truck as a truck you will most liklely need to c-notch the frame for axle clearance too. (Kits available) You will also need an adjustable panhard bar to keep the rear centered so the chassis don't arch sideways during suspension travel. You may not need this under 4" but you will if you go more.

The front sway bar was optional and if you don't have one either go bone yarding or buy a new one. This is the single most important improvement you can make in your truck's handling. With the front lowered, buy new sway bar mounts for lowered suspension. Early Classics and others sell them. They get the bar up away from the pavement.

I bought an Early Classics 2 and 4 kit for my '69 that is springs and KYB shocks. It will give the right combo of looks and drivability at a reasonable cost.

As for the front disc conversion it is a lot of work to swap discs to your '70 suspension. '71-'72 front end pieces are larger diameter. The easy way out is to unbolt the crossmember and swap in a complete '71-'72 crossmember and suspension. Then you can rebuild with all '71-'72 parts without adaption or mixing stuff. You can also just put on the repro '71-'72 brake line kit and a used 5 lug rear. There are now shorter axles from Moser available to put 5 lugs in your 6 lug rear but they are expensive. You should be able to find a good 5 lug rear for 50-100 bucks. 5 lug axles are too long for 6 lug rears.

I think that covers it. Any questions just ask.

Tom


Building a '69 C10 short stepside mild custom.
#38289 12/09/05 10:38 PM
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Hi Tom,

Thanks for the input. I just saw your post for the first time today.

I'm sure I'll have questions. Thanks for the help.

Lyndon

#38290 12/09/05 10:51 PM
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1st question:

 Quote:
If you are going to drop over 2" in the front use spindles or spindles and lower springs.
When you say 2", do you mean 2" total including the 60 or 65 series tires?

What do you think of this:
http://www.brothersonlinestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LSS6372-8

I'd get 2" drop in front and 4" for the back

#38291 12/10/05 09:00 AM
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2 inches in the spring only. The lower tires will give you another 1.5 or so depending on what you use.

That looks like a nice kit and the price is right in there with others. I like that it includes the trac bar. ECE has one that also includes the shock relocators for $429. So that Brother's kit is pretty decent. The Guys at ECE told me to drive it before I bought the shock relocators and see how I like it. They thought I'd be happy with it but if I want to soften it up a little restoring the shock angle will help.

Tom


Building a '69 C10 short stepside mild custom.
#38292 12/10/05 03:59 PM
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Thanks Tom.

I was looking at ECE too, but then figured out that Brothers in only about 20 miles from home. I should be able to drive over there and pick the stuff up.


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