Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected help me draw up a turbo header (duggan head)

guy's

need your help with this one. i know there are a few of you that enjoy this kind of stuff. looking to fit a turbo onto a duggan head and then into a chevelle chassis.

the turbo needs to be centered on the engine from front to rear. i would like the header pipes to go below the turbo, so turbo sits ontop, just below intake. also like the pipes to be fairly close in length.




the exhaust ports come out at a 90 degree to the head, simular to the regular 6 head.

i am just looking for some good ideas, do not expect anything perfectly drawn. see what you can do. if you are shy just pm me and i will give you my email. tom

I do enjoy this kind of stuff even if I couldn't build it myself. Here is a picture of Supra turbo header in the setup that might work. Burns Stainless makes a 6-into-1 turbo merge collector with t4 flange.

Toyota Turbo Header

Z

Tom,how many of those Duggan heads do you have now?
Are you able to put together a complete one now?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Su...sQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stainless...sQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1JZGTE-St...sQ5fAccessories

MBHD

If you could lay a piece of lexan or plexiglass over an exhaust port, and make an outline with a Sharpie of the ports and bolt hole locations and general shape of the whole flat surface of the standoff, I can make you a file for you to take to a fab shop and have the flanges laser cut, or I could even CNC a set for you.

the supra stuff does help give me a idea.

cnc ,
i have a extra set of flanges and could send them for you to copy. tom

Unless this is going to be a race engine, long separate runners (as shown) don't really help and increase the amount of work involved.
The tubing is also subject to short life expectancy due to heat cycling and vibration.
They also raise the underhood temperature (already a problem with all turbo installs) by huge increase in surface area for radiation, while losing heat energy to run the turbine.
The flange should be as heavy as your fab skills permit - at least 3/8", 1/2" is better.
Smallest package for best effect is Schedule 40 cast steel "weld ells" - take a look: http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm

http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm

MBHD

hank,
same link panic gave.

have you started making your turbo header yet?

i'd really like some ideas. like routes to lay the pipes and make it look pretty. tom

I gave that link a long time ago to REVOD
Sorry about the same link. I believe I have posted it a few times here before,but I think it it is a cheap way to make a strong turbo manifold.
The SDS EFI system is what I will be using when ever I get the time.

No turbo header yet for my 12 port head,but I have been working on the throttle body adaptor to my intake plenum.
Also the fuel system for the EFI conversion & fuel rail fittings.
Not much,but @ least something.

As far as my job goes,,,,it is on a day to day basis,might cut our hrs first,then more layoffs if it gets even slower.

MBHD

hank,
i'd like to see your intake, give me a link.
tom

No pics or links as of yet. Sorry.

MBHD

The material cost of the Schedule 40 is far higher than simple tubing, but with any luck it will last 10 years, and pass more heat energy to the turbine inlet.

The material cost of making a complete schedule 40 manifold is much cheaper than making a tubeular stainless manifold.

You should never use simple mild steel tubing for a turbo manifold,so ,that would not be a viable option.

Ask a fab shop to make a stainless tubeular turbo manifold for you,it will shock you about the price.

Just in stainless tube material alone w/out my exhaust flange.
I have about $350 IIRC,as it has been a while since I ordered these tubes.

Shocking is Burns prices : http://www.burnsstainless.com/304tubing/Ubends304/ubends304.html
Here is SPD : http://www.spdexhaust.com/

You also can buy stainless schedule 40 tubing,but cost more $$$


MBHD